Synchro in 1st gear? Options

[flyer86d]

When we had our 71 914, we eventually lost 1st gear. The dog teeth were shot and it wouldn’t stay in gear. I yanked the trans and my friend in the business repaired 1st, freshened up 2nd and changed the rest to MSX ratios as well as the bearings. The following weekend, we had a track event and time trial at Pocono. The trans shifted slick as could be mad the gearing was great. During the time trial coming off of the tri-oval into the infield, a 4th to 3rd shift was required. Sue was driving the car and at that shift point, she pulled the box into 1st as slick as could be by mistake. We were running slicks and needless to say, zinged the engine. We didn’t know how badly we hurt it and drove it home!!! I replaced the bottom end as we ran a rod bearing, scored the crank, etc.

Can’t you repair first gear by removing the tail cover leaving the trans in the car?

Charlie

[Gatornapper]

Charlie -

Please quit reading my mind. I was thinking the same question, only I need to redo the synchro for 2nd gear too, and probably dog teeth for both. Decades since I've worked on manual trannies, and don't remember much, and no experience with Porsche trannies of any kind.

I'm sure the brain-trust here can answer you question about 1st - and 2nd.

I have zero problems with any other gears.....well, 3rd is always hard to get into gear, but never crunches.

And as I said - 1st to 2nd is rarely a problem on upshifts. And only occasionally a problem on downshifts from 3rd.

GN

When we had our 71 914, we eventually lost 1st gear. The dog teeth were shot and it wouldn’t stay in gear. I yanked the trans and my friend in the business repaired 1st, freshened up 2nd and changed the rest to MSX ratios as well as the bearings. The following weekend, we had a track event and time trial at Pocono. The trans shifted slick as could be mad the gearing was great. During the time trial coming off of the tri-oval into the infield, a 4th to 3rd shift was required. Sue was driving the car and at that shift point, she pulled the box into 1st as slick as could be by mistake. We were running slicks and needless to say, zinged the engine. We didn’t know how badly we hurt it and drove it home!!! I replaced the bottom end as we ran a rod bearing, scored the crank, etc.

Can’t you repair first gear by removing the tail cover leaving the trans in the car?

Charlie

[Gatornapper]

Can anyone answer Charlie's question in Post #21 and then mine in #22 about accesing 1st & 2nd gear w/o dropping the tranny?

TIA,

GN

[Rand]

And third to first? Yes, much nicer.

You do need to make sure your linkage is spiff and adjusted. And no weakness at the firewall where the clutch cable comes through. And... I hope you don't have to dig into the transmission for synchros and such.... Although, do it and you're good forever.

[DRPHIL914]

Can anyone answer Charlie's question in Post #21 and then mine in #22 about accesing 1st & 2nd gear w/o dropping the tranny?

TIA,

GN

maybe?? but dont, just pull the transmission - its so much easier i think to pull and align it going back in with it standing up, i remember Mike L.(drevil) saying just pull id and do it out, because its much easier to drop it into place putting it back together and lining it up with the seal , otherwise the seal can be pushed out you are not lining up properly.
.

[Gatornapper]

Rand -

I cannot imagine my linkage being any tighter than it is. I totally rebuilt the linkage a couple years ago and made some additional improvements of my own where I removed some slack/slop that was left even with all new bushings/fittings.

RickB45 has a totally restored '72 2.0 with all new bushings and my linkage is much tighter than his.

Linkage very tight at firewall.

Still not clear - sorry: can I drop tranny behind differential w/o dropping clutch & differential? Leaving clutch housing, differential & axles in place?

TIA again,

GN

And third to first? Yes, much nicer.

You do need to make sure your linkage is spiff and adjusted. And no weakness at the firewall where the clutch cable comes through. And... I hope you don't have to dig into the transmission for synchros and such.... Although, do it and you're good forever.

[Shivers]

Easy answer is yes. The whole cluster and intermittent plate. But then you have to put it back in, keeping all the surfaces clean, making sure the input shaft to the trans doesn't pop out the seal in the bell housing. Can't see to guide it. Another 1.5 hours you could have it on a bench. And could save yourself having to pull it later anyways to fix all the leaks. Or it may all work out fine, good luck.

[Gatornapper]

Shivers -

Older = wiser. At least a bit. You sold me.

Out and on the bench goes the whole unit. But might be spring before I can get to it - and with no heat in my shop/garage, April.

Just the information I needed to make a decision - and a plan. Invaluable information.

Thank you so much.

GN

Easy answer is yes. The whole cluster and intermittent plate. But then you have to put it back in, keeping all the surfaces clean, making sure the input shaft to the trans doesn't pop out the seal in the bell housing. Can't see to guide it. Another 1.5 hours you could have it on a bench. And could save yourself having to pull it later anyways to fix all the leaks. Or it may all work out fine, good luck.