Members with 74 1.8, information needed for history of cars |
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Members with 74 1.8, information needed for history of cars |
wonkipop |
Nov 25 2021, 04:35 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,253 Joined: 6-May 20 From: north antarctica Member No.: 24,231 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
@StarBear & @wonkipop want to hear from members who own 1974 1.8s.
to assist with a topic in originality section of the website. Cars need to be reasonably original with L jet fuel injection system intact. If you have the time and can help us with some information it would be great. information. 1. Vin Date - month and year (no need to post vin numbers if you don't want to). thats the date on the driver door sticker. 2. Karmann plate #. or if you have already done the maths, the day and week of the year the car began production. 3. Image of engine bay emission sticker (lhs above the air cleaner - white with red letters). sticker should say whether it is an EC-A or an EC-B engine and whether it is california + EPA or only EPA. 4. image of engine tune up sticker. this is the small white sticker that is on LHS engine tin just below fan shroud. most of them are gone by now, but some engines still have them. 5. image of the throttle body. image of the distributor. we are looking at the vacuum hose set up between the distributor and the throttle body. ----- (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) |
Van B |
Dec 1 2021, 05:53 PM
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#2
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,582 Joined: 20-October 21 From: Maryland Member No.: 26,011 Region Association: None |
Ok, so I’m following everything but the fact that my car simply would not start with the vacuum retard attached. INSTANTLY floods! I’ve tried it twice and the second time I really made sure timing and idle speed were on the money.
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wonkipop |
Dec 1 2021, 06:22 PM
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#3
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,253 Joined: 6-May 20 From: north antarctica Member No.: 24,231 Region Association: NineFourteenerVille |
Ok, so I’m following everything but the fact that my car simply would not start with the vacuum retard attached. INSTANTLY floods! I’ve tried it twice and the second time I really made sure timing and idle speed were on the money. attached or not attached? the photos you posted show all the vac lines attached van. retard and advance. thats how the car came to you right? way i see it with vac retard attached its going to start easier from cold. but once its warm its going to idle hotter (esp out in traffic). it stays retarded. a car without vac retard attached is going to be a little harder to start from cold. but once its warm will idle at 7.5 BTDC. EDIT - and idle cooler too out in traffic. ------ i've never thought too hard about this before. i never had to do anything to the car back 30 years ago. it ran sweet-as for 15 years. and its kind of running sweet-as again (except for the cold start being not up to what it used to be). the thing about having no vac retard line, which i'm speculating for a 49 state car, (and those throttle bodies are out there, with the right part # on them) is maybe the enrichment mix is tweaked on the ECU. its another area i have to go in and teach myself about. i've never had to touch the car in those areas, nor do i necessarily want to, but i have to read the factory manual and get my head around how you can tweak the ECU. or even the AFM. other members here who have been fooling around actively with their 1.8s would really know this stuff. i guess what i am saying is, cold the ECU definitely does adjust the fuel enrichment. and that would be tuned or in synch with the vac retard scenario. if you don't have vac retard (as maybe a true 49 state car is), maybe they tweaked an adjustment on the ECU from the factory. but i don't know. thats my next bit of reading. |
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