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> Continuity Test Results, Help to interpret Continuity Test Results
Van B
post Jan 14 2022, 04:48 PM
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QUOTE(MFejsa @ Jan 14 2022, 01:56 PM) *

Hi, thanks for the message.

Check all grounds many times and made sure that they were all firmly crimped.

Also, swapped out to nee voltage regulator early today and still get the same reading at 18 pin.

Cable to the starter has also been replaced with a new one. When you say hot cable I assume you are referring to the cable from starter to battery?


Regards

Michael

Yes Sir. But that was just an example from the 996. Given the pin you measured from, I would start by checking the wiring on that circuit, as Mel suggested; relay contacts and ignition. Given you have 12v at the battery but not at pin 18. Just start checking points along the way and see if you can discover where your voltage drop is.

Van
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Dustin
post Jan 14 2022, 05:21 PM
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are you sure its running on all 4
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emerygt350
post Jan 14 2022, 08:55 PM
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QUOTE(Dustin @ Jan 14 2022, 06:21 PM) *

are you sure its running on all 4

Funny thing is mine runs just fine on 3 at idle. You can hardly tell. On two it just starts to get the Harley feel...
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MFejsa
post Jan 15 2022, 02:29 AM
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I tried without the vacuum attached on the advanced setting and no different.

Will be playing around with all setting variations today and let you know how I go. But Im hoping that the vacuum line from dizzy connected to retard and on A or B setting will my issue.

Thanks again
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Superhawk996
post Jan 15 2022, 12:02 PM
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Joining this thread late but I don't see any verification of parts. Maybe I'm missing it (did see the generic comments in 1st post)?

ECU P/n
MPS p/n


In addition it seems like there was an engine swap or rebuild at one time.

Need to verify you have proper parts for the year of FI system -- system is not tolerant of mix and match parts between model years.

Per OP previous quote "And not when I pulled the plug wires one at a time didnt not much change at all."

There is something wrong . . . .

If you pull a plug you should notice a drop in RPM's. Either via ear, increased vibration, or via slight drop on a diagnostic (digital) tach.

The three things you must have for an engine to run:
Fuel
Compression
Spark

Have you compression checked the engine?

With respect to spark -- I do see the coil ohm checks. However, coils are notorious for measuring OK cold but then acting up as they get hot. If you're pulling spark plug wires and not getting a change in RPM's I'd be suspecting poor spark.

Likewise someone earlier asked about the plugs. Reply was "new". Once they have been run, they are no longer "new" it is easy to quickly foul out plugs especially if running rich. Likewise, the plug color (ranging from white (lean) to black (rich) and condition (dry, oily, wet with fuel) gives a lot of insight into what is or isn't going on in the combustion chamber. I'd suggest pulling the plugs and posting pictures here.
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MFejsa
post Jan 15 2022, 03:30 PM
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ECU - ive also changes the ECU to another which was tested and still have the same outcome.

MPS - was refurbished by reputable individual and recommended highly by most on 914world and it was calibrated to match the engine

Not too sure why when I pull the plug there is no different in RPM but others have said that not much RPM change either until you pull 2 plugs.

Fuel - Ive replaced fuel pump and its tested at 28-29 psi.
Compression - didnt check but purchased from individual who said engine ran fine before shipped. Will check when I get access to tester.

With respect to spark the coil is new and also fitted another coil and still same outcome.

As for the plugs, I have swapped out to a second set thinking that I may have foul plugs but still same result.

I will be checking the valve clearance this week to make sure that its right as I did not do this since fitting the engine.

I really appreciate your advice.

Will let you know how I go.

Regards

Michael
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