Oil capacity for 914-6 conversion, 2.4 Options

[Dion]

Hey Fellas , so I’m getting close to starting my 2.4L. I’ve read that the original 6 takes 9 quarts. Mine is slightly larger as stated. I want to start adding oil to the system. Not only to look for leaks but want to get some in the block so I can rotate her without fear of
scuffing up metal that shouldn’t. I know your supposed to check when hot and running.
How much would you add at first. Any starting procedure tips. It is carbed and does NOT have a front cooler. Appreciate any insight and experience.
Cheers, Dion

Engine porn (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[lesorubcheek]

Beautiful engine Dion, and a great question. Been pondering the same thing. So, what if you aren't using a factory tank, dipstick or filler neck..... does anyone know approximately the actual level in a tank that's considered full? Say relative to the lower edge of the filler opening or some other point on the tank. I'm gonna need to calibrate a dipstick. Thought about looking at the 911's tank and see where it's dipstick full level sits relative to it's filler and use that. Doesn't seem to be an exact science, just gotta not overfill and have oil burping out all over, and obviously have enough that it isn't sucking air, but it'd be nice to hear from those with experience.

Dan

[mb911]

Beautiful engine Dion, and a great question. Been pondering the same thing. So, what if you aren't using a factory tank, dipstick or filler neck..... does anyone know approximately the actual level in a tank that's considered full? Say relative to the lower edge of the filler opening or some other point on the tank. I'm gonna need to calibrate a dipstick. Thought about looking at the 911's tank and see where it's dipstick full level sits relative to it's filler and use that. Doesn't seem to be an exact science, just gotta not overfill and have oil burping out all over, and obviously have enough that it isn't sucking air, but it'd be nice to hear from those with experience.

Dan

Dan,

My tanks are larger.. again the proper procedure so everyone is on the same page and more detail then last response. Keep in mind I have sold 100s of tanks and have explained this thousands of times.

1. No external oil cooler fill tank with 9 qts.

2. Turn the engine over with now plugs or fuel until oil pressure

3. Start engine and get to 180 degrees on a flat level surface.

4. Mark the dipstick so you know the minimum level.

5. For my tanks and larger capacity oil lines add another 1qt max.

6 again follow steps 1 -4 to the tee don't vary and you will be golden.

7 don't ever trust dip stick level fill lines without following steps 1-4.

[lesorubcheek]

Dan,
My tanks are larger.. again the proper procedure so everyone is on the same page and more detail then last response. Keep in mind I have sold 100s of tanks and have explained this thousands of times.

Thanks Ben. Appreciate your explanation. Mark, you make alot of sense too. Thanks.

Dion, on the topic of initial engine run, there's some interesting posts on pelican regarding first starts and break in. Most key in on whether the engine has new cams and/or new pistons/rings, or whether it's original components. Not sure of the details of your engine, so this may not matter for you. You may well be aware of this anyway, so please ignore if so. Most posts are consistent with what you hear regarding any type engine. New cams need constant rpm but not too fast, ensuring good oil pressure and a break in time of ~20 minutes. New rings need varying load for break in which is contrary to cam break in procedure. Most agree the make sure cams are treated nicely first, then drive it with varying load for ring seating.

Another reference is the Dempsey book on rebuilding 911 engines. His book is assuming a complete rebuild. After the initials steps of cranking engine with plugs out to ensure oil pressure, and steps for getting fuel system ready, he says to start engine, bring to 2000 rpm and using a stop watch, run it for 20 minutes. Switch off and drain the oil. Refill with oil. For the first drive, take it out for 3 to 5 miles, varying rpm and keeping it under 5k. Drive it back home and check oil level. He doesn't say whether to let the engine cool or not, but think he intends to keep it warm, just make sure you check the oil level. Then take it for a second drive of 8 to 10 miles, driving the same as the first drive. Drain the oil again. He does specify to let the engine cool completely before driving again the following day. On the following day, check ignition timing and adjust carbs as needed, warm up by driving and then check oil level again. He recommends another oil change at 500 miles along with adjusting valve clearance, at least on magnesium case engines.

Lots of opinions out there. Dempsey's seems hyper-conservative nth degree of perfection as opposed to just jump in and drive it and change the oil after it starts looking dark would kinda be on the other end.

Dan