Red wire with some crispy insulation.... Options

[Costa05]

I had to install a complete replacement harness in my 76 & decided to fuze everything as there were problems with the old harness.
Installed a 1 in 4 out fuze block near the battery for the 4 red wires coming off the battery. Fuzed with 2- 25 amp & 2- 10 amp fuzes. Now I sleep well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) One of the best things you can do for these cars. At least on the electrical side of upgrades. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Superhawk996]

I hate to admit this since I generally think the engineers got most things right on the 914. However, @barefoot 's solution is probably warranted.

Standard practice on new cars is to put in a fusible link (or multiples) between the battery and the power distribution modules.

There are odd fuse choices on the 914 where I "believe" the fuses seem to large for the wire gauges involved but I have yet to do a deep dive analysis to portray this as "fact".

Definitely not like Lucas on Britt cars but could be better in my opinion.

[advman89]

That power distribution junction block was only used thru '72. I've seen them get shorted out by aftermarket fuse boxes or metal cased relays that weren't secured in place.

It's there in my 1971.

So. Tonight. It comes out and I'll connect those two wires proper. Didn't feel right to me.

I do have the JWest Fuse Panel.

[advman89]

...and now I'll be adding in fuseblock near the battery.

[anderssj]

That power distribution block is there on my '72... and it was both unfused and always "hot." I've since put a fuse box in for the 3-4 red wires at the battery.

We had a similar problem on my car back in 2004 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

We were out for a drive, hit a bump and smoke started coming out from under the dash. Fortunately it quit when I shut things off--and we were only about a mile from home.

The problem appeared to be caused by the front/ upper edge of the fuse panel/tray cutting through the insulation on one or more wires leading from/to the fuses. These wires looked like they had been resting on this relatively sharp edge since the car was built. I've since covered the tray edges with some plastic welting (like small weather-strip), so that should end it--but you may want to check on yours.

Hope this helps!

[advman89]

The ground block was removed last night, wires properly soldered together. Fuse block will get installed once the Great and Almighty Bezos delivers it.

Harness is re-tapped with the good stuff.

I've been keeping a good eye out for sharp edges.

Next up--Let's tackle that switcher and hazard wiring nightmare...


Thank you all!!

[advman89]

Fuse block is in place. I feel better. Thank you all!

I'm still trying to sort out the Fuse 11.
It's no longer shorting....but interior light still isn't working--no power.

Hazard switch_
Turn signals are working, but if you pull the hazards, the turn signals no longer work.

I have tried two different hazards with the same result.

Any thoughts?

[VaccaRabite]

Fuse block is in place. I feel better. Thank you all!

I'm still trying to sort out the Fuse 11.
It's no longer shorting....but interior light still isn't working--no power.

Hazard switch_
Turn signals are working, but if you pull the hazards, the turn signals no longer work.

I have tried two different hazards with the same result.

Any thoughts?

That's not a bug, that's a feature.

The hazard flashers and turn signals are the same bulbs. I don't think you can use both at the same time. I could be wrong, but I think the flashers take priority.

For the interior light check continuity from the fuse panel to the hot lead at the light. and then check continuity from the light back to ground. One of those wires likely has a break.

Zach

[ClayPerrine]

Fuse block is in place. I feel better. Thank you all!

I'm still trying to sort out the Fuse 11.
It's no longer shorting....but interior light still isn't working--no power.

Hazard switch_
Turn signals are working, but if you pull the hazards, the turn signals no longer work.

I have tried two different hazards with the same result.

Any thoughts?

That's not a bug, that's a feature.

The hazard flashers and turn signals are the same bulbs. I don't think you can use both at the same time. I could be wrong, but I think the flashers take priority.

For the interior light check continuity from the fuse panel to the hot lead at the light. and then check continuity from the light back to ground. One of those wires likely has a break.

Zach

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

When you pull the hazard flasher switch, all it is doing is turning on the turn signals on both sides at the same time. It completely bypasses the turn signal switch.

[johnorm]

I had to install a complete replacement harness in my 76 & decided to fuze everything as there were problems with the old harness.
Installed a 1 in 4 out fuze block near the battery for the 4 red wires coming off the battery. Fuzed with 2- 25 amp & 2- 10 amp fuzes. Now I sleep well (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

I'm doing the same thing as I rebuild my '73 loom. I fused the two 10 gauge red wires to the fuse box under the dash. Also added two 12 gauge wires for optional equipment like stereo and heated seats. Both looms I had showed heat damage to the these two key power wires and the yellow wire from ignition switch to the regulator board in the back. Also did the Ford solenoid conversion to reduce the load on the ignition switch.

[Geezer914]

Did the Ford solenoid for the starter and 4 fuses for the red wires coming off the battery. Don't need an electrical short torching the car! Fuses are cheap insurance.