Fuel injection issues? Possibly run carbs? Options

[rhodyguy]

Going carbs? Figure out which distributor you are going to use. Buy a carb balancing tool. Add a fuel pump for carbs that is self regulated, figure out where you intend to mount the pump, buy the CB Weber manual, don't buy a cross bar linkage dependent on springs to keep it centered, replace every piece of fuel line with line for modern fuels, new fuel sock in the tank, phenolic spacers/gaskets under the intakes. Stock up on patience.

[Superhawk996]

Before I add more, let me say I'm in the camp of keeping FI if at all possible.

However, going to carbs is pretty darn simple let's not make it out to be rocket science. I figured it out as a 20 year old bone head. K-mart tools and timing light were about all I had back in those days.

We put so many rules on folks (yes I know I do too . . ). The best 914 is one that is driven!


My 1.7L carb conversion broke all the rules we know all know to be DAPO stuff in hindsight:

Dual 40 IDF's that came with venturi's that were too large and poor out of the box jetting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

OEM FI cam (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

No phonelic manifold spacers. Later just stacked about two or three more gaskets. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

I swapped to the 009 centrifugal advance distributor (it was all the rage in the 80's for VW's) with a translucent / clear red distributor cap (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Facet 3 psi fuel pump - noisy SOB

Rubber lines in the tunnel (replaced plastic after the metal stubs) since the plastic lines had cracked (IMG:style_emoticons/default/hissyfit.gif)

Round crossbar / stamped steel linkage (slippage galore (IMG:style_emoticons/default/screwy.gif) ). An aluminum Hex bar would have been a serious upgrade. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Some sort of throttle cable holder made out a piece of 1/8" strap iron that I bent up and attached to the case via case bolt. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sheeplove.gif)

Uni-syn carb sync tool (cheapest out there (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif) )

And those are just the dumb (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif) things I can remember not to mention all the hard lessons I learned along the way about jetting, cam choices, etc.


But you know what . . . . it ran . . . it drove (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) and i fell in love (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)

[jdamiano]

I have the stock FI, in a box in my shed in case anyone after I die wants to put it back on. I have the Redline Weber 40 kit on my car with the Petronix distributor and coil, a whatever electric fuel pump and regulator. I still have the stock cam and it runs great. I originally put a 009 distributor but the curve on the Petronix suites the conversion much better. Let me know and I can send you links to all the parts you need for pretty much a bolt on conversation.

[Lockwodo]

I have the stock FI, in a box in my shed in case anyone after I die wants to put it back on. I have the Redline Weber 40 kit on my car with the Petronix distributor and coil, a whatever electric fuel pump and regulator. I still have the stock cam and it runs great. I originally put a 009 distributor but the curve on the Petronix suites the conversion much better. Let me know and I can send you links to all the parts you need for pretty much a bolt on conversation.

Hi there jdamiano. I for one would certainly like to have those links, I'm sure they will come in handy in the future. If you could add them to the post here that would be great, or email them to me at lockwood107@gmail.com. Thanks, Doug

[ClayPerrine]

You could always go aftermarket EFI...

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.allzim.com-1143-1650542915.1.jpg)

This is a kit for a 356. If you already have carbs, you can bold this on a 914 in a few hours. The only thing you will have to do is to extend a the power lead and the O2 sensor lead, and weld in the O2 bung. It will start and run out of the box, but it will need tuning because this is tuned for a 1800CC 356 engine.

I have driven a 356 with this kit. It starts with the turn of a key, it idles great with no issues, and it out performs the exact same car with carbs on it.

Check it out here: https://www.allzim.com/store/356-parts/efi-...ersion-faq.html



Or call Aaron at 800-356-2964 or 817-267-4451 for more info.

I know Aaron is working on a kit for a 914 that will use the original throttle body and runners. But it is not done yet.

Clay

[930cabman]

How can you not like this setup?

Budget $$?

[rhodyguy]

The 356 kit is $3495. Plus any options not included in the basic kit.

[DRPHIL914]

@bmtrnavsky
to the OP -

i am guessing the impulse sender he is referring to is the MPS the round silver thing, probably was shot when the car was parked. You can rebuild it with a kit from Tangerine racing or source one from someone here, or Jeff Bowlsby will rebuild yours and tune it for factory setting, you will fine tune it- read PB Anders--- Jeff makes new FI harnesses and the alternator harnesses from him or 914rubber.

IF the FI points plate is bad , there are some out there, i have several, someone will sell one to you, and you can put a Petronix or Compufire electronic points module in the top end OR just spend $400 get the 123ignition distributor and eliminate all of that.
new CHT sensors are available, good functioning AFR are out there.
Get all new vac hoses from Dr914- George at AA and all new fuel lines, new spacers and seals, throttle body gasket and intake runner gaskets., your injector seals should be replaced too, .


I am in the keep the FI camp on this one, and to say that parts are hard to come by for the d-jet system is just not accurate anymore at all! there is not one part for my 2.0 d-jet that you cant get new or NOS or reman. its old so what ever you do you will need to clean your tank and lines and get a new pump and filter.

when i bought my car 12 years ago, all it needed was clean tank, new lines and a new MPS, it fired right up. took less than a weekend, all the information i needed was right here on world or in the Haynes Manual and PB anders site.

So YES you can spend less than $1500 and replace all that with new and refresh your motor drive it and enjoy it.
FI once set will be less maintenance than the carb solution, been there done that got the t-shirt.

[GeorgeKopf]

As for after market EFI, I was looking at these:

http://www.sdsefi.com/specific.html

and

http://thedubshop.com/dual-throttle-body-f...gnition-type-4/

[DRPHIL914]

As for after market EFI, I was looking at these:

http://www.sdsefi.com/specific.html

and

http://thedubshop.com/dual-throttle-body-f...gnition-type-4/

Ethan from Jacksonville Florida aka bearfoot garage on youtube has done a
Haltech EFT conversion.

Phil

[ClayPerrine]

As for after market EFI, I was looking at these:

http://www.sdsefi.com/specific.html

and

http://thedubshop.com/dual-throttle-body-f...gnition-type-4/

LOL... the "Idle up valve" that SDSEFI sells is a Ford Pickup fuel tank switching valve. I put them on 914s with stock injection to idle up the engine with the AC running.

[JamesM]

You could always go aftermarket EFI...



I know Aaron is working on a kit for a 914 that will use the original throttle body and runners. But it is not done yet.

Clay

This is always the best solution but comes with a steep learning curve, especially if you dont have someone that knows what they are doing tuning it for you.

Marios kit (thedubshop) should get you 90% of there way there. PMB (@EricShea) has had the other parts needed machined up for a 100% bolt on solution, not sure if they are selling kits stand alone yet though or only installing them in shop.

Brand new EFI is always the best choice but comes with a cost.

[GregAmy]

Note I am successfully controlling idle in my 2L DJet/Microsquirt conversion using ignition timing only. Works great, drops down and nails it right at 900 every time.

I don't think you need an air valve.

[jdamiano]

Carb kit. Use the 40s for a stock motor.
http://www.redlineweber.com/carb-kits/auto/porsche/

Distributor
https://www.amazon.com/Pertronix-D186604-Fl...C213&sr=8-3

Coil
https://www.amazon.com/PerTronix-40511-Flam...9BO4C&psc=1

Fuel pump. You can go with any pump and regulate it to about 3.5 psi but Tangerine Racing can set you up with the pump bracket and I suggest a new steel line if you still are running factory plastic.
http://www.tangerineracing.com/stainlessfuellines.htm

I think I got it all. I think the beauty of this is 12 volts to new stuff and you are running. Eliminates all the old complicated stuff.

Let me know if you need any additional information

[SirAndy]

Time for a new mechanic in my opinion

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

[Ansbacher]

My advice on carbs:

1. Don't oversize. 40s are big enough for a stock 2.0 L.
2. Go with Dellortos over Webers.
3. Use a good rotary fuel pump calibrated to 3.5-4.0 lbs. of fuel pressure.
4. Make sure your intake gaskets are not leaking; replace if needed.
5. Buy a snail type balancer (NOT a unison).
6. Don't starve the carbs for fuel- go with big enough main and idle jets. It takes experimentation.
7. Do not exceed 30-32 main venturis, or you will have off the line problems.
8. NEVER use ethanol gas.

Ansbacher

[Craigers17]

If you end up converting to carbs, and decide upon the CSP linkage, this McMark video might be useful for maintenance. Good luck with your choice!

https://youtu.be/ZS3oNSwkUPk

[rjames]

Once you read up on how the stock FI works and how to troubleshoot, you may find that it’s cheaper and easier to fix the FI issues than switching to carbs. If I can do it, anyone can.

[emerygt350]

Once you read up on how the stock FI works and how to troubleshoot, you may find that it’s cheaper and easier to fix the FI issues than switching to carbs. If I can do it, anyone can.

And it is kinda cool. So much easier than later versions with all the sensors all over the place. Just a temp sensor/CHT, TPS, and MPS really. Damn thing can run when all of those are messed up too. Not too well, but it will still get you home.

[bmtrnavsky]

Ok it’s bad trigger points the thingy under the distributor that has gone bad. If I can’t find those where do I find the distributor that works to stay fuel injected?