914 GT 3.6 Ferrari Build, - Mechanicals coming along, electronics soon! Options

[tygaboy]

I should've guessed you were a masochist based on your project choices. But, I'd offer that while I agree skills are important, the quality of the product is still the end goal. And if a better tool helps me achieve that end, I'm going with the good stuff. I welded with the old pinkies of every shape and variety the whole time I worked as a welder through my pre-USAF life. But if these furicks had existed then, I would've had one in a heart beat.

Frankly, for being such a tool hound, I'm surprised at your resistance to the suggestion!

@Van B - Let me clarify. I'm not resistant. I will be using the gas lens when I final weld the header. Maybe better stated is: First I need to know that I have the correct settings, am correctly managing heat and penetration to ensure I get the quality you mention. THEN I can move forward with confidence. Clearly, you have a ton more welding experience than I do. I want to be sure I develop the proper base and build on solid skills. And I do appreciate your input.

[tygaboy]

For those who may care to understand why I'm approaching the welding the way I am, start at 10:35 and watch for about 8 mins. This is what motivated me to focus on basic skills ahead of upgrading the consumables.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IfJG4cMhIOc

[tygaboy]

Here's the set up I'm using: air cooled #17 torch, gas lens with a #8 cup. And there's the first tube done - the upper weld filed and sanded, the lower weld wire brushed.

[tygaboy]

2nd tube fully welded, "main" weld still yet to be dressed. I'm happy with how all this is going.

[Van B]

So, first off, I’ve gathered from your videos that you’re excessively self critical… unfounded if you ask me.

Second, your welds are quality.

Third, that setup is not “basic”. That’s what I would use if I was cup walking an in-position large diameter stainless or inconel flange back in the day.

Fourth, either you buy the cup or I’m mailing you one… someone here will help me make that happen.

That is all. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[ClayPerrine]

Why didn't you dress and "disappear" the second weld joint?

[tygaboy]

Why didn't you dress and "disappear" the second weld joint?

@ClayPerrine Clay, I like some welds, just not all welds. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
The main welds are all that can be seen when it's in the chassis and once I did the first one, I decided I was OK with the look. Less work, too.

[Shivers]

I think it looks great. That tig is cool, my wire feed welds are train wreckish at best most of the time.

[mb911]

Get that furick cup! You’ll love it! Weldmonger.com is run by Jody of welding tips and tricks on youtube. (I love his videos)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) You'll use a bit more gas but so much better and versatile. Well worth it.

Sorry that is incorrect you will not use more gas. Lens allow lower flow rates and better distribution of the gas and that is the point of them.


Chris I use a #gas lens for everything I weld including, aluminum, steel, stainless. It is the most versatile setup you can have.

[mb911]

The best product Furick makes is the angled collet. For you that are welders by trade you will know how much that benefits the tightness of the tungsten in multiple heat cycles.

https://furickcup.com/furickshop/

[mb911]

Why didn't you dress and "disappear" the second weld joint?

@ClayPerrine Clay, I like some welds, just not all welds. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
The main welds are all that can be seen when it's in the chassis and once I did the first one, I decided I was OK with the look. Less work, too.

Disappeared welds to your point Chris is for spots you don’t want to see. I caution people very often about do such a thing as when you are dealing with hi heat applications where there is quick bursts of heat and then cooling (think on throttle off throttle) they are more prone to cracking.

[Van B]

The best product Furick makes is the angled collet. For you that are welders by trade you will know how much that benefits the tightness of the tungsten in multiple heat cycles.

https://furickcup.com/furickshop/

Oh man I love those angled collets! The best ideas are always the ones that as soon as you see it, you immediately wonder why it was ever done another way!

Regarding the gas usage, flow is definitely more correlated to stick out than cup size. But both are still interrelated.

[Superhawk996]

Why didn't you dress and "disappear" the second weld joint?

@ClayPerrine Clay, I like some welds, just not all welds. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
The main welds are all that can be seen when it's in the chassis and once I did the first one, I decided I was OK with the look. Less work, too.

Disappeared welds to your point Chris is for spots you don’t want to see. I caution people very often about do such a thing as when you are dealing with hi heat applications where there is quick bursts of heat and then cooling (think on throttle off throttle) they are more prone to cracking.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) . . . Now he’s going to start all over again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

[mb911]

The best product Furick makes is the angled collet. For you that are welders by trade you will know how much that benefits the tightness of the tungsten in multiple heat cycles.

https://furickcup.com/furickshop/

Oh man I love those angled collets! The best ideas are always the ones that as soon as you see it, you immediately wonder why it was ever done another way!

Regarding the gas usage, flow is definitely more correlated to stick out than cup size. But both are still interrelated.

Exactly

[mb911]

Why didn't you dress and "disappear" the second weld joint?

@ClayPerrine Clay, I like some welds, just not all welds. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
The main welds are all that can be seen when it's in the chassis and once I did the first one, I decided I was OK with the look. Less work, too.

Disappeared welds to your point Chris is for spots you don’t want to see. I caution people very often about do such a thing as when you are dealing with hi heat applications where there is quick bursts of heat and then cooling (think on throttle off throttle) they are more prone to cracking.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/huh.gif) . . . Now he’s going to start all over again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

Oh lol not my intention Chris is doing a great job. This was meant as a data point

[tygaboy]

Disappeared welds to your point Chris is for spots you don’t want to see. I caution people very often about do such a thing as when you are dealing with hi heat applications where there is quick bursts of heat and then cooling (think on throttle off throttle) they are more prone to cracking.

@mb911 Ben - I'm concerned about the possibility of cracking, too. The plan all along is to do the same thing as I did with my LS car: get it running, get some miles on it, be sure everything works, THEN do the finishes. This included the headers. I figure I'll get a couple thousand miles on them and see how they hold up. If any cracks appear, I'll weld them up and leave the welds.
As I've always said, I'm constantly learning. Let's see what this teaches me!
Thanks for your input, too.

[mb911]

You purged it so odds are with you.

[tygaboy]

2nd side header gets done! Well, almost. And yes, I'm battling a strong desire to start over, knowing I could do a much better job. But I'm not going to. At least not right now... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

If you do nothing else, watch from 13:40 - 13:50.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BWm45vB5HqM

[Cairo94507]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) (PS- Alien is still a movie that scares the bejesus out of me....)

[tygaboy]

@Van B @mb911 Your pressure was too much. I caved and ordered a set of Furik stuff. I'm such a conformist...

On another important front, I have appointments this coming week with two different tuners to talk ECU selection.
One that's in contention is the new ECU Master Pro series. The big add is they now support dual drive-by-wire throttle bodies - a requirement for the 360. I've been really happy with their PMU and ECU Master seem to be making inroads with the motorsport crowd as a budget-friendly option to the MoTec and Haltec product lines. We shall see.