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> Another trailing arm bushing question, 914rubber ones fine on stock pin?
nditiz1
post May 19 2022, 06:31 AM
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So I noticed while removing my left rear shock that my trailing arm likes to move around a lot. That explains the clunk I heard on my test drive.

I was going to purchase the 914rubber kit, but looks like they are oos on the SS pins. Can I just use the rubber bushings with my current pin barring it has not gotten worn out from current bushing failure?

OR if I'm going that route should I get the RD ones, just the bushings.

I looked at the elephant kit, but I hate paying for extra tools I don't need.

Lastly,

Move brake caliper and lines off arm.
Unbolt drive shaft from trans flange.
Remove rotor
Unbolt shock.
Remove trailing arm bracket and pin.

That's it to get it out right?
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Shivers
post May 19 2022, 06:41 AM
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I can not think of anything else. Maybe loosen the castle nut while it is on the car, I had a heck of a time off the car.
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TonyH
post May 19 2022, 07:32 AM
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I am just about to do mine, so I will let you know!

TonyH
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nditiz1
post May 19 2022, 07:45 AM
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Tony

Which bushings are you going with?
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Chaznaster
post May 19 2022, 06:30 PM
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Is it the trailing arm moving around but the pivot is solid or is the whole thing moving?

I had the same problem and, upon disassembling it, found that the inner bolt on the pivot had been loose for a long time and the movement wallowed out the inner mounting hole. I ended up filling the worn section with weld and recreating the correct size hole.

If the inner bolt is at anything but completely tight, it is possible that you have the same issue. You’ll know for sure when you remove the TA.

It would be easier if it is, indeed, only the bushings.
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nditiz1
post May 19 2022, 06:44 PM
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It looks like the bolt is tight.

I can almost move the TA in an orbital motion of movement. I can press against the shock bottom and flex the TA outward. The nut on the end does not seem to move any when doing this.
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Costa05
post May 19 2022, 07:59 PM
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I just did new 914rubber bushings and used the stock pins which were in good shape visually. Bushings fit great. No squeaks yet. Did not have that wallowed out inner mount hole thank goodness.
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iankarr
post May 19 2022, 08:06 PM
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No need to replace the pivots if they're solid and not rusty. Just change the bushings.
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nditiz1
post May 19 2022, 09:32 PM
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Thanks all! Will place an order with 914 rubber
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Mikey914
post May 19 2022, 10:27 PM
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Yes the stainkess is an overkill, should have more in stick shortly.

We held iff as stainless spiked. Now pricing is more, just not as much as it was.

As far as reusing the OEM, that's fine if yours are intact without punholes. They let water in and rust from the inside out. You will know pretty quickly if you have this issue. If not they can be reused no problem.
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Chaznaster
post May 20 2022, 07:47 PM
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QUOTE(nditiz1 @ May 19 2022, 08:44 PM) *

It looks like the bolt is tight.

I can almost move the TA in an orbital motion of movement. I can press against the shock bottom and flex the TA outward. The nut on the end does not seem to move any when doing this.


Good outcome!
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