Another trailing arm bushing question, 914rubber ones fine on stock pin? |
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Another trailing arm bushing question, 914rubber ones fine on stock pin? |
nditiz1 |
May 19 2022, 06:31 AM
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#1
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,185 Joined: 26-May 15 From: Mount Airy, Maryland Member No.: 18,763 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
So I noticed while removing my left rear shock that my trailing arm likes to move around a lot. That explains the clunk I heard on my test drive.
I was going to purchase the 914rubber kit, but looks like they are oos on the SS pins. Can I just use the rubber bushings with my current pin barring it has not gotten worn out from current bushing failure? OR if I'm going that route should I get the RD ones, just the bushings. I looked at the elephant kit, but I hate paying for extra tools I don't need. Lastly, Move brake caliper and lines off arm. Unbolt drive shaft from trans flange. Remove rotor Unbolt shock. Remove trailing arm bracket and pin. That's it to get it out right? |
Chaznaster |
May 19 2022, 06:30 PM
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#2
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Member Group: Members Posts: 295 Joined: 22-November 15 From: Concord, MA Member No.: 19,389 Region Association: North East States |
Is it the trailing arm moving around but the pivot is solid or is the whole thing moving?
I had the same problem and, upon disassembling it, found that the inner bolt on the pivot had been loose for a long time and the movement wallowed out the inner mounting hole. I ended up filling the worn section with weld and recreating the correct size hole. If the inner bolt is at anything but completely tight, it is possible that you have the same issue. You’ll know for sure when you remove the TA. It would be easier if it is, indeed, only the bushings. |
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