What oil type for a type IV?, Synthetic or Dino? Options

[Jaiden]

The PO has put synthetic in the case of My Type IV since he got it.

The motor drips a little. Is synthetic to thin? Should I keep going synthetic?

[bd1308]

valvoline 20W50

[SGB]

I use Castrol 5W50. Ran mobil 1 for a few years and leaked more (maybe even burned more). I can't say that I noticed any difference in engine behavior. I think I get quieter startups with castrol- it is definitely thicker at low temp.

[bd1308]

5 weight???!!!

that's nuts.

[URY914]

I believe Jake's dyno test proved Royal Purple to provide the best results.

But I use Wong Hung Lo's Karma Sutra Super Slick Formula #2 Oil.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/happy11.gif)

Paul

[SGB]

Britt-
I'm pretty sure the spec is for straight 50 weight. It gets plenty hot round here, and I don't feel any concern. Been running 50 or 5W50 in VW flat fours for 25 years without problems.

[IronHillRestorations]

Multiviscosity oils have a tendency to breakdown faster than single viscosity oils. Since most 914's leak some oil it's always easier on the pocketbook and garage floor to go with the less expensive oil, especially if you are a frequent oil changer.

[Jaiden]

SO I guess that synthetic is the Choice but I have to make sure that it's a 50 weight synthetic AKA 5w-50.

Now is the valvoline 20w- 50 synthetic because that sounds like a good weight for my lightly dripping type IV.

[tat2dphreak]

Valvoline full syn or Royal Purple syn.

if you want to go Dino, go Kendall 20-50... gud stuff!

[bd1308]

i thought synthetic was bad for the seals.....

[tat2dphreak]

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Aug 4 2005, 08:28 AM)

i thought synthetic was bad for the seals.....

that's some PITA BS... only clubs are bad for seals (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

if the seals are good, syn is good

if you start leaking by switching to syn, you need to fix the leak, not switch back to dino.

[bd1308]

okay.

learning more and more.

[Joe Ricard]

QUOTE (bd1308 @ Aug 4 2005, 05:38 AM)

okay. learning more and more.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wacko.gif)
When I do a build up of a new motor I'll use Synthetic.

[Mark Henry]

Dino use Shell Rottilla T diesel oil...Valvoline and Kendal are also good.

Syn I use the Valvoline, a lot of guys rave about royal purple but I haven't tried it because its spendy and hard to get here.

Weight is a debate that can start flame wars...I use a bit lighter weight than you southern boys. Most of my engines use the Shell Rottilla T diesel oil 15w40.

[davep]

Usual spec is for 30W oil. Older engines tend to leak a lot with synthetic. Perhaps a fresh engine, once broken in, could use synthetic successfully. Perhaps a partial synthetic blend might work better. High and low temperature climes would likely have to use multiweight or adjust to different single weight oils.

Personally, I don't think synthetic is cost effective in these engines. Starting in the dead of winter is a possible exception, but we don't do that anymore do we!

[Jaiden]

Now what about those High milage mixes?

I have no idea how many miles are on the motor in my car.

Hell I don't know how many miles are on the chassis.

But the motor is out of a 75 2.0 and it looks pretty good but I'm not sure if it was ever gone through

[Lyressa Roberts]

I use 0W30 Mobil 1 Synthetic for my 2.0 and I have NO leaks. My only leak is in my trani.

[Rand]

Nothing wrong with the factory's suggestion, regardless of mileage. In my climate, that's Castrol 30W.

[Rog914]

Put Royal Purple in my 74 2.0 when I got it. No leaks. Switched to synthetic on one of my new cars and noticed a big difference when I went to get emissions test, dropped all values. I think if your having trouble passing emission test on dino oil, try synthetic oil and I bet you see a difference (run at least one oil change first with syn.).

Ralph

74 2.0

[dmenche914]

synthetic in my 914 and 356, but I do not use it in cars that are big leakers (for economic reasons) nor in my Bug which i have yet to ad an oil filter (hence the oil is changed every 1000-1500 miles) In the 914 I go 3000-4000 max miles on oil changes with the sythetic. I do not like the idea of the claims of 10000 mile life of the oil cuase

our engines tend to run hotter than newer water cooled cars, and the clearances are not as tight so combustion gasses tend to get into the oil. thus I believe the oil is not clean enough after than many miles, or has the potential to be worn out (thats just a hunch on my part) to I will not do 10000 oil changes. I doubt I'd go that far even on a new car (If I ever buy one, like hell will freeze first)

So synthetic is great, it keeps the rockers clean, no dirt build up after 174000 miles of synthetic use on a Vanagon (water cooled 2.1 l) I have never seem a dino engine with the valve covers off look this clean after that many miles.

Sythetic is too expensive however if you do very frequent oil changes, burn or leak excessive oil.

I Run Mobil One 15W50 in my 914, but swithed to Valvoline full sythetic 20W50 in the Vanagon do to low oil pressure (hey, didn't say it was perfect after 174000 miles)

When experimenting with different oils, be sure to have a pressure gage hooked up, it is very useful in determining the correct weight for you driving conditions, and can alert you to problems before they become very expensive problems. An oil temp gage is also nice to have, but pressure I think is the best gage to have if you only run one of the two, as if the oil gets too hot, it will show as a pressure drop. a temp gage will not show a sudden loss in oil pressure until too late.

good luck in you selection.

But do not freak out to much about it, our engines are happy with either type of oil, they like generally the thicker stuff (the thin gas saving oils are too thin, an oil pressure gage will show that). and they really love frequent oil changes (and valve adjustments)
Also 914's are best run with OEM type filters use Mann or Mahle brand and you are safe. Fram brand 914 filters are junk, have had the insides come apart twice on me. The OEM type German filters are built better, have more material in them, and I have never had one come apart on me like the orange Fram filters. I cringe everytime I see an Orange filter hung under a 914 or VW Bus engine.