 What oil type for a type IV?, Synthetic or Dino? |
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| balljoint |
 Aug 4 2005, 10:59 AM
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#21
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914 Wizard  Group: Members Posts: 10,000 Joined: 6-April 04 Member No.: 1,897 Region Association: None  |
Castor oil is very expensive, and not recommended for automotive applications.
AND, as anyone who knows any French will tell you, Castor oil is made from freshly squeezed Beavers, as found on the Canadian $0.05 piece. I like to use synthetic blends myself, not too $$$, and I just use the recommended 30W. |
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| Jake Raby |
Aug 4 2005, 11:25 AM
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#22
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,394 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
I live by Royal Purple 20/50 full synthetic.
I have went up to 18K miles and never changed it in my 912E... Its used it since its conception in 2002- 84K miles ago.... Since the engine in that car is nearing its 100K teardown and soup up I have decided NOT to change the oil any more until the engine dies.... Thats how much I believe in it based on prior experiences and my own test results. I have been gathering oils from various Mfr's for a "Re-do" of my oil tests that I did in 2002, but much more extensive now that I have the datalogger. |
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| bondo |
Aug 4 2005, 12:04 PM
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#23
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Practicing my perpendicular parking Group: Members Posts: 4,277 Joined: 19-April 03 From: Los Osos, CA Member No.: 587 Region Association: Central California |
Cool! Are you going to test Rotella T Synthetic? (I ask because it's cheap at wal-mart.. $13 a gallon) |
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| Jake Raby |
Aug 4 2005, 12:16 PM
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#24
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,394 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
Yep- They already sent me a case of it...
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| tat2dphreak |
Aug 4 2005, 12:22 PM
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#25
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stoya, stoya, stoya Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region  |
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/huh.gif) I don't think Rotella -T is synthetic... I could be wrong though... it is a diesel oil. |
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| Mike D. |
Aug 4 2005, 01:36 PM
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#26
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OK, It runs now, and pretty good too! Group: Members Posts: 1,445 Joined: 3-January 03 From: Santa Clarita, Ca Member No.: 85 Region Association: None 
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Only use syth oil in a new motor after break in. Otherwise the break in time will be longer. |
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| Brian Mifsud |
Aug 4 2005, 01:50 PM
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#27
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Mechanical Engineer Group: Members Posts: 981 Joined: 3-March 03 From: Penngrove, CA Member No.: 384 Region Association: None |
For what it worth...."Synthetic" oil IS "DINO" oil.. it's just much more highly refined.
Oil is made up of long, medium, and short chain molecules. The more long chain molecules, the higher the viscosity (tougher to "untangle" them). Synthetics (at least in the Car and Driver article I read when they first hit the market) are the result of filtering out all the medium and short chain oil molecules through lots of expensive refining. When oil it stressed by temperature and pressure, the chains get sheared into smaller chains (viscosity lowers proportionally). The ability for the oil to maintain a thick film between 2 moving parts diminishes also. It's a numbers game, the more long chains you start with, the higher the probability over time (before it all leaks out on the transaxle and muffler) you have of more long chains at any given moment. I've never heard of Synthetics being more likely to leak past seals. (I'm no expert however). It would seem to me, if what Car and Driver was saying, the long chain molecules would actually be LESS likely to leak past seals, or porous castings since they are bigger??!! Or is it the case that the same guys who run the synthetics, proportionally beat the shit out of their engines thinking they have a little more "insurance"??? 2cents... |
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| airsix |
Aug 4 2005, 02:32 PM
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#28
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I have bees in my epiglotis Group: Members Posts: 2,196 Joined: 7-February 03 From: Kennewick Man (E. WA State) Member No.: 266 |
I voted for synthetic because I'm running a turbo. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)
As far as "synthetics leak more", that's not an issue any more. When synthetics first showed up on the shelf at your local FLAPS there were some seal issues, not because the oil was synthetic, but because of the additive recipes being used. This was straightened out years ago by all the brands and isn't an issue today. Synthetic oil = better oil. Period. That's the good news. Bad news is that it's expensive (my daily driver takes 8 quarts at a change. Ugh.). -Ben M. |
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| bondo |
Aug 4 2005, 02:47 PM
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#29
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Practicing my perpendicular parking Group: Members Posts: 4,277 Joined: 19-April 03 From: Los Osos, CA Member No.: 587 Region Association: Central California |
They make both.. white bottle - dino... blue bottle - synthetic. |
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| tat2dphreak |
Aug 4 2005, 03:41 PM
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#30
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stoya, stoya, stoya Group: Benefactors Posts: 8,797 Joined: 6-June 03 From: Wylie, TX Member No.: 792 Region Association: Southwest Region |
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif) ok, my bad! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif) hadn't seen the synthetic! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif) |
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| Brother |
Oct 29 2006, 01:59 PM
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#31
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 19 Joined: 29-October 06 From: Del Rio, TX Member No.: 7,110 |
year old bump for this thread.
I'll try to find some royal purple locally. If not, mobil 1 will do. I agree that some of the cheap oil filters are crap, but what do you guys think about the newer k&N and mobil 1 oil filters compared to the OE types. I know some guys hate change, but the new stuff should be better. It will be interesting to get some oil analysis done on this car. |
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| cnavarro |
Oct 29 2006, 02:31 PM
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#32
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Cylinder Guru Group: Members Posts: 472 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Chicagoland! Member No.: 49 Region Association: None |
The mobil 1 oil filter is the best quality spin on you're going to find; the K&N might be a little bit better built, but it lacks the filtration of the m1 and is focused on flow.
If you can't get RP locally, Jegs is a good source. I'd recommend the max cycle 20w50 RP, more anti-wear additives. |
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| pfierb |
Oct 29 2006, 03:52 PM
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#33
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oldest member Group: Members Posts: 606 Joined: 1-May 05 From: The sign of good government in Connecticut is to keep raising taxes Member No.: 4,008 |
Bought a NAPA gold oil filter for my Mercedes,cartridge type, what a piece of junk made in India stamped on it ......very uneven and crude looking pleats ,end plates ragged....took it right back. Won't use anything but the good German OEM filters in my cars now.Castrol 20-50 in the 914.Oh yes the NAPA filter was more money than the OEM filter.
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| Elliot_Cannon |
Oct 30 2006, 12:38 PM
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#34
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Senior Member Group: Retired Members Posts: 1,922 Joined: 26-March 03 From: Orange County Ca Member No.: 480 Region Association: None |
Mobile 1 15/50 for me. Although Royal Purple is easier to see on the dip stick.
Elliot |
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| Chris Pincetich |
Oct 30 2006, 02:45 PM
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#35
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B-) Group: Members Posts: 2,082 Joined: 3-October 05 From: Point Reyes Station, CA Member No.: 4,907 Region Association: Northern California |
I had my motor installed by a 914 mechanic with lots of aircooled porsche experience and he filled it with MOTUL 6100 20-50W and I have been going back to him to buy the stuff. He is a "distrubutor" and sells me the gallon for $20, and I got some free stickers! Any leaking sticks to the case, no drips from engine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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| pbanders |
Oct 30 2006, 06:11 PM
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#36
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 939 Joined: 11-June 03 From: Phoenix, AZ Member No.: 805 |
QUOTE(Brian Mifsud @ Aug 4 2005, 12:50 PM)  For what it worth...."Synthetic" oil IS "DINO" oil.. it's just much more highly refined. Oil is made up of long, medium, and short chain molecules. The more long chain molecules, the higher the viscosity (tougher to "untangle" them). Synthetics (at least in the Car and Driver article I read when they first hit the market) are the result of filtering out all the medium and short chain oil molecules through lots of expensive refining. Looks like whether it's "true synthetic" or derived from mineral oil depends on the product brand: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_oil |
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| Brother |
Oct 30 2006, 07:36 PM
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#37
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Newbie Group: Members Posts: 19 Joined: 29-October 06 From: Del Rio, TX Member No.: 7,110 |
QUOTE(cnavarro @ Oct 29 2006, 02:31 PM) The mobil 1 oil filter is the best quality spin on you're going to find; the K&N might be a little bit better built, but it lacks the filtration of the m1 and is focused on flow. If you can't get RP locally, Jegs is a good source. I'd recommend the max cycle 20w50 RP, more anti-wear additives. Thanks for the Jegs source. I think NAPA usually carries it. I did the first oil change today. I used M1 15-50 with a Mobil 1 filter. I agree that M1 makes a great filter. I think a bypass setup is the best, but that is money, space, and weight. What is up with the oil filter location. I have SSI's so getting the filter off was insane. I felt like I was going to break the clutch cable trying to get the old one off and the new one in. Is there a better way then just forcing it between the HE and the clutch cable? |
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| Jake Raby |
Feb 12 2007, 08:53 PM
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#38
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Engine Surgeon Group: Members Posts: 9,394 Joined: 31-August 03 From: Lost Member No.: 1,095 Region Association: South East States |
I did a 3,450 mile cross country test in May of 06 and tested 5 different oils.. Pre and post analysis was done as well as 24 channels of data acquisition during the test..
.........I'm still standing by my Royal purple! One oil shiowed less wear material than the Royal Purple on this test, and we are doing further tests between the two to try and find the differences or note some trends that led up to this.. I'll be doing further oil testing in the new lab soon, we have a desire to find the oil that frees up the most power and provides the least wear material in post analysis... To date I have not gathered any power figures during oil testing, the new lab is the perfect environment for this type of test work.. To date I have logged 121K miles on the engine in my 912E, thats since September of 2002.. every one of those has been on Royal Purple. I have went a maximum of 23K miles on a single oil change with the Royal Purple in that engine. In 10,000 miles i **might** burn 1 Qt of oil! |
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| Joe Ricard |
Feb 13 2007, 06:24 AM
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#39
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CUMONIWANNARACEU Group: Members Posts: 6,811 Joined: 5-January 03 From: Gautier, MS Member No.: 92 |
Oil change is always RP with new filter (walmart brand). Engine has decided to start leaking a bit (maybe I shouldn't beat it so much). so I add Rotella when required because of the zinc additive. The only day my engine will ever get a break is when I pull it and replace it with my new one.
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| cnavarro |
Feb 13 2007, 03:48 PM
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#40
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Cylinder Guru Group: Members Posts: 472 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Chicagoland! Member No.: 49 Region Association: None |
http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html
It's the culmination of thousands of dollars of testing and hundreds of hours of research. Let me clear the air on some of the suggestions. Castrol Syntec 5w50 has one of the lowest TBN and lowest Zn and P levels of any oil I tested. Don't use it in your aircooled engine. Better off with Castrol GTX 20w50 or even better, GTX High Mileage. If you like the old-school Kendall, the new stuff is not it. You can get the old green stuff under the Brad-Penn/Penn-Grade label - Racing 20w50. I think it's one of the best dino oils money can buy. I don't think most old type 4's should run anything thinner than 15w40 unless your engine is tighter than.... |
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