Home  |  Forums  |  914 Info  |  Blogs
 
914World.com - The fastest growing online 914 community!
 
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG. This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way.
Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners.
 

Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

> Brake Proportioning Valve, Good bad or ugly
Charles Freeborn
post Jun 24 2022, 03:58 PM
Post #1


Member
**

Group: Members
Posts: 250
Joined: 21-May 14
From: United States
Member No.: 17,377
Region Association: Pacific Northwest



So, on to the brakes in this new car. It still has the OEM proportioning valve for the rears. As I understand when the brake pressure reaches a certain limit (500 plus psi as I recall) it stops sending fluid to the rear calipers. My first question is does it stop and hold at that psi leaving the rears engaged to that level while allowing fronts to get more input, or does it drop the rears to 0?
The other consideration is to use a manual valve such as the Tilton. If going that route how does one determine settings without chancing spins or other drama?
Thanks.
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post
 
Reply to this topicStart new topic
Replies
GregAmy
post Jun 27 2022, 09:57 AM
Post #2


Advanced Member
****

Group: Members
Posts: 2,307
Joined: 22-February 13
From: Middletown CT
Member No.: 15,565
Region Association: North East States



To clarify, both the stock prop valve and the Tilton-type regulators (whether screw or lever) work exactly the same way: they don't "stop and hold at that psi" but they change the rate at which the rear pressure rises in relation to the front.

See attached chart as an example.

Which way you go depends on your needs/desires. As Chris pointed out, you can increase the rear ratio by screwing in the threaded shaft a bit more; what he described is exactly what I did to my street car (per his instructions) to get more rear bias. The factory one is a bit too conservative for my driving, but is safer for the average driver on the street (and in the rain). That's a first step you could start with right now, with about 20 minutes' effort.

If you choose to re-plumb and add a manual valve in the cockpit, you'll remove the factory one entirely and insert the manual valve in a convenient location.

You could, technically, replace the stock one with a manual valve in its place, but brake proportion changes would require you to come into the pits and dive down deep under the car to change it. I'd suggest what Chris describes, and that's mounting it in an easy-to-the-hand location in the cockpit.

As for screw type versus lever? That's your personal preferences. The screw type will give you the option of much finer adjustments versus the 6-position lever.

I personally prefer the lever type because I can reach down and "feel" where I am on the prop valve setting without having to look at it. Plus, the fewer things I can mess up, the better...(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) I doubt I can differentiate between 3 notches and 3.5 notches, let alone 3.25 notches.


Attached Image
User is offlineProfile CardPM
Go to the top of the page
+Quote Post

Posts in this topic


Reply to this topicStart new topic
1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)
0 Members:

 



- Lo-Fi Version Time is now: 23rd May 2024 - 04:47 AM