Not getting power from key to starter, can jump power and start engine but not from key Options

[Type 47]

We've been trying to figure this out for a couple of days. The car was converted to carbs by the PO and was running and starting fine before I took it apart.

Now, nothing happens when key is in start position but we can start if we touch pole 2 (powering fuel pump) and 4 together from open FI harness plug receptacle.

pole 1 being drivers front, 2 passenger front, 3 drivers rear, 4 passenger rear.

one other difference is that now using a Carter fuel pump versus the Faucet that was originally on the car.

[Superhawk996]

Here is the relay board schematic



When key is in start position you should have 12v coming into the board on the top pin 1

And it then goes out to pin 6 to the starter. Via trace on the board.

Both are the fat yellow wire

If I understand the 4 terminal FI plug as you’ve labeled them - you are basically jumping 12v from the power supply relay to the starter motor pin 6

Eventually if you keep doing this you may damage the relay board. The trace from the relay to what your calling pin 2 isn’t sized to support the current your probably drawing through it.

You need to figure out why you don’t have 12v coming into the board from the cabin / ignition switch on the big yellow wire on pin 1

Probably a faulty ignition switch or possibly you have disturbed or haven’t properly bypassed the seat belt interlock relay below the passenger seat.

Not sure why your relay board has a 1980 date stamp on it? Possibly rebuilt by someone?

[rhodyguy]

Where does that red wire connect? Check out the ‘carb pump power’ thread in the Lapalui (spelling) classic thread sub forum.

[Type 47]

Here is the relay board schematic



When key is in start position you should have 12v coming into the board on the top pin 1

And it then goes out to pin 6 to the starter. Via trace on the board.

Both are the fat yellow wire

If I understand the 4 terminal FI plug as you’ve labeled them - you are basically jumping 12v from the power supply relay to the starter motor pin 6

Eventually if you keep doing this you may damage the relay board. The trace from the relay to what your calling pin 2 isn’t sized to support the current your probably drawing through it.

You need to figure out why you don’t have 12v coming into the board from the cabin / ignition switch on the big yellow wire on pin 1

Probably a faulty ignition switch or possibly you have disturbed or haven’t properly bypassed the seat belt interlock relay below the passenger seat.

Not sure why your relay board has a 1980 date stamp on it? Possibly rebuilt by someone?

OK, I bought the car a little over 10 years ago, everything running, then I disassembled it and sent it to be media blasted and painted. the car basically sat on my lift for 10 years and then 20 weeks ago we got dedicated to putting it back together. I was not happy when I saw the date on the board either.

I have a feeling it's something with the seat belt interlock relay. I was blown away when one day I came out and my son had it all plugged in. It makes the buzzers buzz but damn there are like 30 wires going into it.

my son has also been all over those yellow wires.

I'm sure when he reads this it will help.

[Type 47]

Where does that red wire connect? Check out the ‘carb pump power’ thread in the Lapaul (spelling) classic thread sub forum.

The red wire was plugged into the #2 pole to power the fuel pump. the other jumper is just testing

I will check out the Lapuwali Classic thread (had to look it up)

[Superhawk996]

I have a feeling it's something with the seat belt interlock relay. I was blown away when one day I came out and my son had it all plugged in. It makes the buzzers buzz but damn there are like 30 wires going into it.

my son has also been all over those yellow wires.

I'm sure when he reads this it will help.

Given all the interlock stuff is hooked up, Have you tried plugging in the seatbelt buckle and then trying to start it?

[bdstone914]

@Superhawk996

I have seen several relay boards with 80's date stamped. I think they were new replacements at that time.

[bdstone914]

@Type 47

You probably have a bad interlock relay. You should h1ave 12V on the yellow wires into and out of thr relay with the key in the start position and drivers seat bellt latched.
No power out means a relay is bad. They are known to fail.
Easy to bypass by connecting the two big yellow wires.

[davep]

If you have the seatbelt interlock hooked up, and want to use it as I do, then there are a couple of simple things to make it work without a hassle; first is just pulling out the two big wires and jumpering them with a double ended connector, or I can supply you with another trick that will always enable the system. I would like to know how yours is wired up though since it seems there were a few variations.
The other hassle is the ignition switch which is a weak point for carrying the current also. A better way is to use another relay near the starter motor to remove the heavy current through the ignition switch, the interlock, and the whole main harness. The heavy yellow wires then just carry the new relay's solenoid current and keep the ignition switch from burning out. PM me for more info.

[Type 47]

If you have the seatbelt interlock hooked up, and want to use it as I do, then there are a couple of simple things to make it work without a hassle; first is just pulling out the two big wires and jumpering them with a double ended connector, or I can supply you with another trick that will always enable the system. I would like to know how yours is wired up though since it seems there were a few variations.
The other hassle is the ignition switch which is a weak point for carrying the current also. A better way is to use another relay near the starter motor to remove the heavy current through the ignition switch, the interlock, and the whole main harness. The heavy yellow wires then just carry the new relay's solenoid current and keep the ignition switch from burning out. PM me for more info.

We unplugged the buzzer and jumpered the big wires.

That solved the issue, we now have power from the key to the starter (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[davep]

Great result. I assume this is 4752900696 since 1974 had two relays, one attached to the side of this one. hat is the part # on the relay you just removed? Would you be willing to map the wires for me if I supply a drawing to fill out? I have the 74 drawing filled out, and nearly have the 1976 finished, but need the details for 1975.
Dave

[Type 47]

Great result. I assume this is 4752900696 since 1974 had two relays, one attached to the side of this one. hat is the part # on the relay you just removed? Would you be willing to map the wires for me if I supply a drawing to fill out? I have the 74 drawing filled out, and nearly have the 1976 finished, but need the details for 1975.
Dave

Dave, Damn. Yes, it's 475290096. How did you know that?

Hell yes! I'm going to do what you need me to do to get the 75' mapped.

[euro911]

If you have the seatbelt interlock hooked up, and want to use it as I do, then there are a couple of simple things to make it work without a hassle; first is just pulling out the two big wires and jumpering them with a double ended connector, or I can supply you with another trick that will always enable the system. I would like to know how yours is wired up though since it seems there were a few variations.
The other hassle is the ignition switch which is a weak point for carrying the current also. A better way is to use another relay near the starter motor to remove the heavy current through the ignition switch, the interlock, and the whole main harness. The heavy yellow wires then just carry the new relay's solenoid current and keep the ignition switch from burning out. PM me for more info.

We unplugged the buzzer and jumpered the big wires.

That solved the issue, we now have power from the key to the starter (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

You might want to increase the size of the red jumper to a larger gauge. Note the size of the yellow wires (they look like they're #10 AWG) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[Type 47]

[/quote]

You might want to increase the size of the red jumper to a larger gauge. Note the size of the yellow wires (they look like they're #10 AWG) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
[/quote]

wow! what a great observation.

[rhodyguy]

There is a very small gauge wire from the interlock assem that is screwed directly to the chassis. A ground for the relay? Without the wire attached you can turn the engine over with the screwdriver trick but not with the key.

[ClayPerrine]

I suggest that you remove the yellow and yellow/red wires from the block and splice them together. Then you don't have to worry about it in the future.

[davep]

This type of connector from a 1976 car is the best for joining the two wires; it is really just a double ended male spade within a plastic housing.
The two yellow wires are 4mm cross section area according to the drawings. This is to reduce the voltage drop over the total length of the wires.
If you were to add the additional starter relay like I suggested, then this would become a moot point. This is Mark Henry's method, but any 40 amp relay should do the trick:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=308904