1974 1.8L engine fast idle then stalls, Fuel injection issues Options

[tshih914]

My 1.8L 914-4 with stock Bosch L?-Jetronic FI after being stored several years started to develop a hard to start problem. When finally started would stall when I give the gas pedal any input to raise the revs. I suspect there was some kind of intake air leak and while fiddling around had a backfire which blew the AF meter which I had Pelicanparts repaired. After replacing the fuel lines with the stainless ones from Tangerine Racing and flushing out the fuel system with Techron the engine started to run normally for a short time. Now the engine can be started and fast idles at 3000 rpm but again any input to rev up the engine results in stalling. The idle adjustment screw at the base of the throttle housing is fully closed. Any suggestions on how to fix?

[wonkipop]

ok @tshih914

@Van B (i'm sure) and i would like you to do one more test.

pull the AFM plug out (you can pull it out up at the AFM unit on the aircleaner) and see it if starts and runs at this 3000 rpm. don't touch the gas pedal. just let it start on its own.

if it does start and run do a second thing.

turn if off, restart it without touching the gas pedal or throttle and then once its running again at this steady 3000 open the throttle to give it the gas and see what happens. again with AFM plug out.

report back on the result.
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thanks for including the photos.
i am studying them trying to look at area between battery and firewall.
it looks like your ECU is not securely fixed but floating around in there.
its been rotated 90 degrees.
not that its necessarily the cause of your problem,
but @Van B (and i) are thinking of your ECU to AFM connection.
the test i have asked you to do is going to see if this is the problem.


-------

i can see from photos how you have rigged up the fuel lines.
looks fine. i can see most of your vacuum lines and they look right and looks like you have gone over them. i can even see the intake runners appear to have new or good condition woven seals. so all that looks pretty good for being tight and leak free.

its a good idea inserting a full flow high pressure fuel filter in the line like you have.
i have one too which i have installed in almost the same spot.
will save your injectors if you have a newer type fuel pump and it detonates internally.

which leads to the next question.

when this problem of more and more difficult starting first was happening, where was the fuel pump and what was it. original type pump under engine bay on rhs? with original electrical connection?

and did you install a new fuel pump with all your work on the fuel lines.
if you did, where is it, what type and how is it wired in to run?

[tshih914]

ok @tshih914

@Van B (i'm sure) and i would like you to do one more test.

pull the AFM plug out (you can pull it out up at the AFM unit on the aircleaner) and see it if starts and runs at this 3000 rpm. don't touch the gas pedal. just let it start on its own.

if it does start and run do a second thing.

turn if off, restart it without touching the gas pedal or throttle and then once its running again at this steady 3000 open the throttle to give it the gas and see what happens. again with AFM plug out.

report back on the result.
-------
@wonkipop The fuel pump was left as OEM stock just replaced the old fuel hoses to tank and line to engine.

I unplugged the AFM and the engine started after several attempts and started to idle around 1200 rpm initially then rose to 2000 rpm. Shut it off and upon restart while at 2000rpm try to give it gas it immediately stall. All the while unplugged so no AFM inputs

thanks for including the photos.
i am studying them trying to look at area between battery and firewall.
it looks like your ECU is not securely fixed but floating around in there.
its been rotated 90 degrees.
not that its necessarily the cause of your problem,
but @Van B (and i) are thinking of your ECU to AFM connection.
the test i have asked you to do is going to see if this is the problem.


-------

i can see from photos how you have rigged up the fuel lines.
looks fine. i can see most of your vacuum lines and they look right and looks like you have gone over them. i can even see the intake runners appear to have new or good condition woven seals. so all that looks pretty good for being tight and leak free.

its a good idea inserting a full flow high pressure fuel filter in the line like you have.
i have one too which i have installed in almost the same spot.
will save your injectors if you have a newer type fuel pump and it detonates internally.

which leads to the next question.

when this problem of more and more difficult starting first was happening, where was the fuel pump and what was it. original type pump under engine bay on rhs? with original electrical connection?

and did you install a new fuel pump with all your work on the fuel lines.
if you did, where is it, what type and how is it wired in to run?

[tshih914]

ok @tshih914

@Van B (i'm sure) and i would like you to do one more test.

pull the AFM plug out (you can pull it out up at the AFM unit on the aircleaner) and see it if starts and runs at this 3000 rpm. don't touch the gas pedal. just let it start on its own.

if it does start and run do a second thing.

turn if off, restart it without touching the gas pedal or throttle and then once its running again at this steady 3000 open the throttle to give it the gas and see what happens. again with AFM plug out.

report back on the result.
-------
@wonkipop The fuel pump was left as OEM stock just replaced the old fuel hoses to tank and line to engine.

I unplugged the AFM and the engine started after several attempts and started to idle around 1200 rpm initially then rose to 2000 rpm. Shut it off and upon restart while at 2000rpm try to give it gas it immediately stall. All the while unplugged so no AFM inputs

thanks for including the photos.
i am studying them trying to look at area between battery and firewall.
it looks like your ECU is not securely fixed but floating around in there.
its been rotated 90 degrees.
not that its necessarily the cause of your problem,
but @Van B (and i) are thinking of your ECU to AFM connection.
the test i have asked you to do is going to see if this is the problem.


-------

i can see from photos how you have rigged up the fuel lines.
looks fine. i can see most of your vacuum lines and they look right and looks like you have gone over them. i can even see the intake runners appear to have new or good condition woven seals. so all that looks pretty good for being tight and leak free.

its a good idea inserting a full flow high pressure fuel filter in the line like you have.
i have one too which i have installed in almost the same spot.
will save your injectors if you have a newer type fuel pump and it detonates internally.

which leads to the next question.

when this problem of more and more difficult starting first was happening, where was the fuel pump and what was it. original type pump under engine bay on rhs? with original electrical connection?

and did you install a new fuel pump with all your work on the fuel lines.
if you did, where is it, what type and how is it wired in to run?

The fuel pump is the original one that came with the car. Its in the front of the car under the fuel tank next to the brake master cylinder protected by the steel panel that,s bolted to the A-arms front torsion bar area.
I unplugged the AFM and the engine started after several attempts and started to idle around 1200 rpm initially then rose to 2000 rpm. Shut it off and upon restart while at 2000rpm try to give it gas it immediately stall. All the while unplugged so no AFM input