#4 Cylinder intake valve stuck open Options

[gnomefabtech]

So I'm trying to resurrect this 76 (or is it a 75?) that I just bought and it doesn't have compression on the #4 (rear right) cylinder. After some tests with compressed air it's clear that the intake valve isn't closing. I pulled the valve cover and the rockers move OK but that valve does not close all the way. Everything else looks good.

I have a lift but was wondering if I could pull that head without dropping the engine. It looks like there is room but I'm not sure about the engine tin etc. Seems like either the valve is bent or somehow stuck and maybe I can just fix the one thing there.

Anyone pull heads while the engine is still in the car?

[technicalninja]

SuperHawk- that is BEYOND nasty.
Do people really remove the air flaps for the oil cooler?
Drop dead stupid!
I'm going to remote mount my oil cooler, remove the flap, and make another by hand to replace what I removed to force all the air through the fins.

In the AC world the cleanliness of the heat exchangers is paramount.
A system that looks like those engine picks would not work very well at all.

I'm in agreement with everyone else- Check valve clearance first but if you don't know the history of the drive train removing it for inspection is a good idea.

If it looks like SH's pictures you will save it from destroying itself.

Those pictures are what I call a "time bomb"...

[brant]

SuperHawk- that is BEYOND nasty.
Do people really remove the air flaps for the oil cooler?
Drop dead stupid!
I'm going to remote mount my oil cooler, remove the flap, and make another by hand to replace what I removed to force all the air through the fins.

In the AC world the cleanliness of the heat exchangers is paramount.
A system that looks like those engine picks would not work very well at all.

I'm in agreement with everyone else- Check valve clearance first but if you don't know the history of the drive train removing it for inspection is a good idea.

If it looks like SH's pictures you will save it from destroying itself.

Those pictures are what I call a "time bomb"...

You don’t have to make a new flap
For racing. We used to add two sheet metal screws to the stock flap to force full air through the cooler

Be cautious to always pre warm the car and oil since you loose the warm up of a thermostat

Not ideal for the street use
As the stock thermostat design does work well