Clutch and speedo cable length, Too long? Options

[Jim2]

My first teener. Converting to 6 cyl. Wrapping up loose ends now and I'm baffled by the excess clutch and speedo cable length. I did swap to a 1974 trans but my chassis, speedo and clutch cable are 1972. Does a person (not so simply) zip tie or norma clamp cables somewhere between the heat exchangers to form a large "S"?

As far as the speedo cable goes I have a right-angle union on the trans, but perhaps the original 72 trans did not have one, I no longer recall details of the old drivetrain.

Any insight from you folks?

Thanks.

[914Sixer]

-6's have a specific clutch cable. Speedometer cable was only one size.

[Dave_Darling]

How much is the "extra" length? Clutch cables on 914s seem to be a little longer than we might like, especially if we use the metal trunnion piece from a 911. About 1/2" worth of spacer (a couple of oversize nuts, a little section of pipe, whatever) between the trunnion and the retaining nuts works well.

All 914 transmissions have the angle drive for the speedometer. They do make something of an "S" curve under/beside the motor, but it's not super exaggerated.

I'm not sure that the Six clutch cable was a different length than the Four; the throttle cable was but that is because they used completely different throttle linkages on the engine side. (The Six cable went to a bellcrank on the side of the transmission, and had rods that went to the carbs.)

--DD

[ClayPerrine]

The reason the clutch cable seems to be too long is all the aftermarket ones out there are made to the original specifications. The factory original clutch clevis looked like this:



It was plastic, and had an extension on it. They were notorious about pulling off the ears on them.

Porsche superseded it with the 911 one:



This is less than desirable because, to make it work correctly, you have to add an extension to the cable end to get the proper adjustment range. Plus, the pointy ends on the clevis don't really fit the clutch arm correctly.

This is what I recommend:



This is a weltmeister clevis for a 71 911. It is a bit too long, but the rest of it fits correctly. Just trim it off with a hacksaw, and you have a correct fitting clevis that will give you the proper range of adjustment.

Hope that helps!

[Root_Werks]

I didn't know that about the plastic vs. 911 metal parts. Explains it perfectly! Always wondered why (for like 35 years) 914 cables were about 1/2" too long.

[Jim2]

Thank you kind guys for looking at this.

Regarding the clutch cable, it's both cable and sheath which are too long resulting in excess length between the firewall and pulley. Termination at the fork is actually fine, though I will get one of the metal trunions. As noted in my first post I'm using a 1974 trans, but my chassis, cables, and pulley bracket are 1972. It makes me wonder if the 74 cable or pulley bracket is different. My 72 cable is missing a strand so it will need to be replaced.

The throttle cable is zip tied to the shift rod just to keep it out of the photo, no issue with it.

The speedo cable is way too long. (It is tired and needs replacing) I pulled the 72 drivetrain from the car over a year ago but dont recall how the excess was secured, though it was a tail shift trans, and now I'm using the 74 trans.

[mlindner]

That looks pretty normal. You can make a slow S with the cables from fire wall to trans and clutch mounts. This is mine, also a six running a 901 trans. Mark

[NARP74]

Don't tie anything to the shift rod. These things have enough issues without that pressure. Use a rubber coated clamp like @mlindner very clean install.

[bkrantz]

Speedo cable length behind the firewall depends on how you route it inside the cabin. A very helpful place for some "extra" is behind the dash, so you can pull the speedometer out at least 4 or 5 inches to undo the cable. And if you route a standard cable from there, above the pedals, and into the tunnel, I bet you will have little excess towards the transaxle.

[r_towle]

The reason the clutch cable seems to be too long is all the aftermarket ones out there are made to the original specifications. The factory original clutch clevis looked like this:



It was plastic, and had an extension on it. They were notorious about pulling off the ears on them.

Porsche superseded it with the 911 one:



This is less than desirable because, to make it work correctly, you have to add an extension to the cable end to get the proper adjustment range. Plus, the pointy ends on the clevis don't really fit the clutch arm correctly.

This is what I recommend:



This is a weltmeister clevis for a 71 911. It is a bit too long, but the rest of it fits correctly. Just trim it off with a hacksaw, and you have a correct fitting clevis that will give you the proper range of adjustment.

Hope that helps!

Yet another epiphany.
Never knew there was a valid solution to 4 inches of thread sticking out!

[ClayPerrine]

This is what I recommend:



This is a weltmeister clevis for a 71 911. It is a bit too long, but the rest of it fits correctly. Just trim it off with a hacksaw, and you have a correct fitting clevis that will give you the proper range of adjustment.

Yet another epiphany.
Never knew there was a valid solution to 4 inches of thread sticking out!

That's what makes this place great. We all learn from each other.

[NARP74]

My quick search shows that part is NLA. WELTMEISTER ALUMINUM CLUTCH LINK PIN

[ClayPerrine]

My mistake. It is a rennline product. Rennline M26.

https://www.rennline.com/billet-clutch-cable-clevis-sku-m26/

Also available from vivid racing:

https://www.vividracing.com/rennline-clutch...-152628427.html

And on the bird site:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/REN....fdd4bc487276f0a

$45.00

[NARP74]

My mistake. It is a rennline product. Rennline M26.

https://www.rennline.com/billet-clutch-cable-clevis-sku-m26/

Also available from vivid racing:

https://www.vividracing.com/rennline-clutch...-152628427.html

And on the bird site:

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/REN....fdd4bc487276f0a

$45.00

Great, thanks