Carbs versus FI, I can buy some carbs and stuff but can I buy FI? Options

[Type 47]

Can you just buy a FI setup? Or do you have to resurrect your 50 system that has been in a box for forty years and you know something is wrong with it?

[technicalninja]

Basic tuning of an aftermarket ECU does not require a dyno.

It's far better to educate yourself on tuning and get all of the "run normally" stuff done long before you head to a dyno.

A good dyno tune is for setting AFR and ignition timing for BMT (best mean torque) in a semi-laboratory setting.

Making multiple runs fine tuning AFR and continuing to add timing until either of two things happen.
One-adding additional timing does NOT further increase power. At this point you have achieved BMT and you back the timing up a little bit past where the power maxed out. This is what we WANT to happen.

Two- add timing until the knock sensor starts showing hits. Back timing up a bit from the point that the knock occurs. For my stuff I'd be close to knock limits. For my customer's stuff I'd back it up an additional 3+ degrees to be conservative. This is what we call knock limited power. Adding higher octane fuel is the solution to this problem and 90+% of tuning on pump gas ends this way.
100 octane race gas or E85 usually allows tuning to BMT without knock.

These power tunes HAVE to be done on some kind of torque measuring device but if the basics are not completed by the time you hit the dyno you are just wasting your time.

A simple laptop, properly set up system, and 10+ hours of getting it right are what I do BEFORE I hit a dyno...