Tell me about oil cooler seals Options

[emerygt350]

I thought my leak to the front of 4 was the valve cover gasket. Now I am leaning more towards the seal on the oil cooler. Seems to only really leak when the oil is hot.

[Chaznaster]

I think I had the same leak. Replaced the seals with the engine out, which was simple. The seals were hard as rocks. I'll know if that fixed it when I get it running again in the next few days.

There are a few good threads on this site for doing it without pulling the engine ...

[emerygt350]

I think I had the same leak. Replaced the seals with the engine out, which was simple. The seals were hard as rocks. I'll know if that fixed it when I get it running again in the next few days.

There are a few good threads on this site for doing it without pulling the engine ...

I am intrigued... I will go digging.

[emerygt350]

Very interesting indeed, has anyone else attempted this?

I don't have a lift.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=218024

[r_towle]

On jack stands, it can be done.
I put Vaseline on them so they stick in place.
You need time to get the second one in and push the cooler back in place.

[emerygt350]

Awesome. Did you drain the oil?

[Jack Standz]

Have done it a couple times. The thread shows you the way.

No need to drain oil, but remove filter before removing filter bracket. You can use a small drop of superglue (or grease) to hold the seals in place. In addition, a small rachet with a universal joint helps get the third nut fastened, take some different length extensions maybe a shallow and/or deep socket and try different combinations until you find what works.

[ctc911ctc]

I did it on jack stands once - it was a PAIN!!!!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I then removed the engine to do the:

Transmission (2 dogs and 3 sync rings)
New Push rod tubes
Clean everything
Exhaust stud - loose from Helicoil
Front/Back seals
Clutch and cable, few broken small parts

ALSO
The Oil Cooler Seal - for the second time - took a few minutes with the engine out.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I think removing the engine is though seemingly longer, is in actuality shorter and more definitive. A very skilled experienced mechanic can do it the hard way and make it look easy, for me the engine-in oil cooler seal change was very frustrating and I never really trusted that I had them in correctly,,,,I did it the hardway once and made it look impossible!

my 2 cents

[brant]

its easier to remove the engine.

if you choose not to remove the engine.... one trick to make it less time consuming is to sawzall the 3 long studs that hold the cooler... then replace those 3 studs upon reassembly..

another trick... use dow corning 111 on those seals. It is an O-ring grease and the appropriate thing to use. I would never rtv them as some have done in the past... and I dont' think I would ever super glue them either...

[r_towle]

I have done it on jack stands...its not terribly hard, you just need to be patient.

Getting the new seals to stay put while you get the cooler back in place is where you just need to be calm, use some grease (vaseline) or something that hot oil will dissolve.

I also do all my pushrod tubes while the engine is in the car...again...not hard, just challenging.

Now...a 2006 911 S 3.8 liter...Plugs
I get all five in minutes, no big deal.
Then the last one, passenger side rear.
WTF...that took me about 40 minutes, every tool I own...just stupid.

They could have done a better job with the exhaust bracketry.

Rich

[emerygt350]

I was going to ask about the tubes. Thanks rich. I know it will be frustrating and slow but I am just not ready to drop the motor yet. Someday.

[Shivers]

Have you changed the oil and filter lately?
Some filters do not seat right. I thought it
was the cooler seals, it was a Fram filter instead

[emerygt350]

It's a mobile1. I will definitely check and see. It started while I was racing. But that coincided with getting the oil good and hot for the first time this year

[iankarr]

I was going to ask about the tubes. Thanks rich. I know it will be frustrating and slow but I am just not ready to drop the motor yet. Someday.

I understand the aversion, but like Nike says…just do it. So much easier to bite the bullet and drop the engine. You’ll be more sure of the repair and you can address other things like plugs, cleaning, valves, etc. while the engine is out.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FMesGrjgcvg

[914werke]

I did it on jack stands once - it was a PAIN!!!!!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) Funny I had never done this task *in car* before & ended up recently doing it with car on the QuickJACK.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)
Never again ~ (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)
Its doable but as mentioned a PITA!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stirthepot.gif)

[r_towle]

Unless you have an engine stand, and a way to pick it up once dropped , I suggest you do all rubber and gaskets while it’s in the car

Clean everything
Place cardboard underneath
Find the drip

Pushrod tubes cannot be totally removed in car, but you don’t need to remove the. Just unseat them, change o-rings, reseat them.
Remove rocker arms from car. Put back after, then set valves ( but they will be the same as when removed because nothing has changed)
Vice grips to pop push rod tubes from case and heads.
Leave push rods inside…no need to remove them

Oil cooler seals, we covered
Oil temp sensor, if equipped
Oil sump strainer
Oil pressure sensor
New valve cover gaskets
Oil filler box has a gasket under it also

You mention racing and hot oil.
So higher oil pressure, hot oil, 40 year old gaskets


Remove, clean, new gaskets and new crush washers for all locations.

Aside from front and rear main seals….those are the leakers

I just did all of those, on a lift.
I also redid the leaky transmission shifter console

Not hard, no need to remove engine
I admit that removing the heat exchangers will make some of the project easier, but that introduces more risk with head studs breaking.

This is an annual or every two year thing when racing.

While there, tighten all cv joint bolts….because

[brant]

I’ll just add that it’s very satisfying to drop the motor
Clean everything
Fix 8 things so easily
Clean the cooler
and re-install

Reassuring also for a track car so you “know” you have addressed everything.

Less problems the next time at the track

[bkrantz]

Another vote for dropping the engine. Lots of things are possible with the engine in place, but the aggravation factor goes WAY up. Along with the chance of not doing it right--and then doing it again.

[ClayPerrine]

if you choose not to remove the engine.... one trick to make it less time consuming is to sawzall the 3 long studs that hold the cooler... then replace those 3 studs upon reassembly..

Why in the hell would you "sawzall" the oil cooler studs????

Just push the cooler forward, and use a pair of vice grips to unscrew the studs. I wrote up the whole procedure to change the oil cooler with the engine in the car, and I have done it in a hotel parking lot in Salt Lake City.

I will agree, it is much easier to drop the engine. But there are times like the situation in Salt Lake where you just can't drop the engine.

[Superhawk996]

Try to do it without removing the motor.

That way you’ll quickly learn why it’s best to just drop the engine for aL most everything but routine maintenance.