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> Tell me about oil cooler seals
brant
post Jun 2 2023, 08:32 AM
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QUOTE(ClayPerrine @ Jun 2 2023, 06:16 AM) *

QUOTE(brant @ Jun 1 2023, 02:54 PM) *

if you choose not to remove the engine.... one trick to make it less time consuming is to sawzall the 3 long studs that hold the cooler... then replace those 3 studs upon reassembly..



Why in the hell would you "sawzall" the oil cooler studs????

Just push the cooler forward, and use a pair of vice grips to unscrew the studs. I wrote up the whole procedure to change the oil cooler with the engine in the car, and I have done it in a hotel parking lot in Salt Lake City.

I will agree, it is much easier to drop the engine. But there are times like the situation in Salt Lake where you just can't drop the engine.



Porsche mechanic trick
Less hourly rate
Cheaper to replace. Saves on the hourly rate

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emerygt350
post Jun 2 2023, 10:45 AM
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Ok, I have started investigating.

One question, how do you get to the upper nut on the oil filter arm? Seems to be right up against the oil cooler and no room.

I took a bunch of pictures. Nothing screams 'massive leak here'. The oil is on stuff to the front of the oil cooler as well which makes me go hmmm.

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emerygt350
post Jun 2 2023, 10:48 AM
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Notice how nice and dry the other side is.

No idea why that hose clamp is in the heater pipe. Don't judge my driver side tin can heat exchanger fix. It works.

And again, it isnt a drip, it's a hot engine issue only (as far as I can tell), although hot oil would drip easier the leak doesn't happen when parked hot. At least not as far as I can tell. There will be the residual dropping from stuff hanging on the metal, but once it falls that is it. Drove it around cold yesterday and no dripping.
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emerygt350
post Jun 2 2023, 11:14 AM
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The filter was on good. Not that it means much. The pattern makes me wonder if it was the filter, very little oil dripping from the filter itself. I guess the airflow over the filter would send an oil mist over that from area as well, plus turbulence under the car.

Do the coolers themselves ever get pin holes?
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brant
post Jun 2 2023, 03:13 PM
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It’s hard to guess where your leak is

Could be the pressure sender for your oil
Could also be the oil pump too

All of which are easy to see and trace with the motor out and the Tin off
Hard to guess from pictures with the motor installed

Sounds like you will have to guess the way your doing it
And you might get to do it a couple of times
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Superhawk996
post Jun 2 2023, 03:36 PM
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QUOTE(brant @ Jun 2 2023, 05:13 PM) *

It’s hard to guess where your leak is

Could be the pressure sender for your oil
Could also be the oil pump too

All of which are easy to see and trace with the motor out and the Tin off
Hard to guess from pictures with the motor installed

Sounds like you will have to guess the way your doing it
And you might get to do it a couple of times


The funny thing is how many of us probably tried it this way long before there was an internet to share tribal knowledge that dropping the engine is for sure the way to go.

Powerplant literally comes out in 60 minutes or less once you’ve done it a couple times.
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emerygt350
post Jun 2 2023, 03:48 PM
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I completely understand that all of this will be easy if I drop the engine, and I am not ruling that out. If it's the fing oil filter gasket and I dropped the engine because you told me to..

Help me with " when my cooler seals went that is not what I saw" or "have you looked at x" or "that upper bolt on the filter arm is hopeless/not hopeless, here is how you do it". Time spent working on this is free for me. I am not racing to get it back on the road.

I actually want to try the replacing the pushrod tube seals with the engine in. Just to see how it goes. Hell, setting the valve clearance with the engine in sucks major donkey xxxx but we all do it without dropping the engine. If I hit a wall I can always drop the engine. That too will be a learning experience. One that requires tools I do not have at the moment (to do it safely).
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Superhawk996
post Jun 2 2023, 04:00 PM
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Just to be clear I’m not making fun of you. I literally did the same thing 1/2 way 30+ years ago before dropping the engine out of frustration. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

You can drop the engine with a couple jack stands and a floor jack. The only special tool I can think of, is the triple square bits for the CV joints. And in all honestly I used to use a hex on those before I learned the hard way that a hex isnt the right tool.

Based on how wet that side is and how high up it is wet, I can’t see it being just a loose oil filter gasket.
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brant
post Jun 2 2023, 04:02 PM
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Probably 100 times I’ve dropped 914 motors with a Jack
You likely have the needed tools

Small Allen wrench (for shift linkage)
Star/ 12 point socket for cvs
Sockets and box/open wrenches
Two jackstands (the taller the better)
A friend to help balance is helpful but not required
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Superhawk996
post Jun 2 2023, 04:08 PM
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QUOTE(emerygt350 @ Jun 2 2023, 12:48 PM) *

Notice how nice and dry the other side is.

No idea why that hose clamp is in the heater pipe. Don't judge my driver side tin can heat exchanger fix. It works.

And again, it isnt a drip, it's a hot engine issue only (as far as I can tell), although hot oil would drip easier the leak doesn't happen when parked hot. At least not as far as I can tell. There will be the residual dropping from stuff hanging on the metal, but once it falls that is it. Drove it around cold yesterday and no dripping.


The fact that it is a hot engine issue speaks to the fact that with cold oil at start up, you’re bypassing or partially bypassing the oil cooler, but when hot you should have full flow through the oil cooler.
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brant
post Jun 2 2023, 04:10 PM
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Also a small leaker blows around a lot in that area

It’s existing hot air and swirls some too
I have an oil pump minor leak that looks like most of the same areas as your pics

But it gets around in that air path

I’ll pull the motor eventually but living with it until then
It’s my street car and runs great so I’ve been putting it off



Wash everything
I even tape (aluminum tape not duct tape) some folded paper towel into strategic areas …. Test warm one time and not any longer than needed

See which area it’s coming from…. If not multiples
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Superhawk996
post Jun 2 2023, 04:12 PM
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QUOTE(emerygt350 @ Jun 2 2023, 12:48 PM) *


No idea why that hose clamp is in the heater pipe. Don't judge my driver side tin can heat exchanger fix. It works.



My guess is there was a rattle from the j-pipe and the hose clap holds them to prevent the rattle
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Superhawk996
post Jun 2 2023, 04:17 PM
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I’m also a fan of UV dye in the oil approach.

And an excuse to buy a new tool (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)

So many cool tools that didn’t exist in 80s or I just couldn’t afford.
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emerygt350
post Jun 2 2023, 04:27 PM
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I have not looked at the pump. Wouldn't that go both ways and not just passenger? I will my boroscope out tomorrow.
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emerygt350
post Jun 2 2023, 04:29 PM
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The hot engine thing keeps pulling me back to the cooler, but hot thin high pressure oil doesn't make it a sure thing.
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emerygt350
post Jun 2 2023, 04:30 PM
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And don't get me wrong, as soon as I see the need I will be all roses on dropping the engine. It will be a big moment in my 914 life history. Here was when I pushed it to its limits at Watkins Glen international raceway, and here is when I had to drop the engine a couple weeks later.

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r_towle
post Jun 2 2023, 06:46 PM
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When was the last time you changed the valve cover gaskets?
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emerygt350
post Jun 2 2023, 07:20 PM
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Two days ago. Sadly. That was my first impulse. In fact I brought fresh ones to the glen just in case.
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emerygt350
post Jun 2 2023, 07:21 PM
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And the ones I replaced are from last fall when I set the valve clearances.
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mate914
post Jun 2 2023, 07:59 PM
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You did just run at the Glen... Maybe high RPM's + Temps pushed oil out the breather?

Matt


QUOTE(emerygt350 @ Jun 2 2023, 09:21 PM) *

And the ones I replaced are from last fall when I set the valve clearances.

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