A couple /6 conversion Q's Options

[mepstein]

can someone with a six show how hard it is to get in there to change the belt?

I was looking at the /4 the other day...and that is no walk in the park.
I recall this car is all about closing your eyes and doing the work purely based upon touch.

Can you fit all the required tools in to properly change a belt on a six...without ever having to drop the motor?

Rich

Yes but it’s not fun. One of our guys did it a couple months ago but he’s 22 years old and does whatever you tell him to do. It’s not something I would want to do myself.
I did tell him to remove the engine lid and he said that helped.

[r_towle]

can someone with a six show how hard it is to get in there to change the belt?

I was looking at the /4 the other day...and that is no walk in the park.
I recall this car is all about closing your eyes and doing the work purely based upon touch.

Can you fit all the required tools in to properly change a belt on a six...without ever having to drop the motor?

Rich

Yes but it’s not fun. One of our guys did it a couple months ago but he’s 22 years old and does whatever you tell him to do. It’s not something I would want to do myself.
I did tell him to remove the engine lid and he said that helped.

So, this is a February annual project...drop motor, do everything needed for the season.

rich

[campbellcj]

I've done the belt with no firewall access hole and can vouch for it being a beotch - you're essentially working by feel unless you maybe have a helper hold a mirror or camera. My car has a removable lid and no airbox to pull off or work around which does help. I have literally injured myself several times working on this car lol.

[930cabman]

I will definately be opening up the firewall to provide fan belt access, thanks for the comments. I am also sure the opening can be made reasonably fire resistant and allow for access into the engine compartment. Working on a mid engined car is tough enough without making it more difficult. Can anyone provide an approx. size?

Every so often an engine drop to check things out is a good practice, but somewhere out in the middle of nowhere to change a fan belt. No way

[mepstein]

If you want the firewall piece, I have one from a parts car. $50 + ship.

[930cabman]

If you want the firewall piece, I have one from a parts car. $50 + ship.

Can you post a photo? is it a bolt on? sounds like an easy button thanks

[Justinp71]

Removing the engine mounts does make for a cleaner look, only reason to keep is if you have future thoughts of a different motor install. LS and most other engine swaps use them. Once you go six though you just want to make it bigger... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif).

I did have to remove the rear brake (anti lock?) valve when I installed the Rich Johnson mount.

[930cabman]

Removing the engine mounts does make for a cleaner look, only reason to keep is if you have future thoughts of a different motor install. LS and most other engine swaps use them. Once you go six though you just want to make it bigger... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif).

I did have to remove the rear brake (anti lock?) valve when I installed the Rich Johnson mount.

I have a fresh 2.7 on the shelf scheduled to go in hopefully soon. If anything I would hop up the 2.7 or increase power some other way. I would probably not go an LS

Considering either Webers or CIS, Webers will probably get the nod, need to look at the throttle shafts soon

[mepstein]

If you want the firewall piece, I have one from a parts car. $50 + ship.

Can you post a photo? is it a bolt on? sounds like an easy button thanks

It’s just the cut out firewall center section. I’ll dig it up and post a pic. The advantage over a piece of sheet steel is it follows the curves of the firewall.

[rgalla9146]

If you want the firewall piece, I have one from a parts car. $50 + ship.

Can you post a photo? is it a bolt on? sounds like an easy button thanks

It’s just the cut out firewall center section. I’ll dig it up and post a pic. The advantage over a piece of sheet steel is it follows the curves of the firewall.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with a piece cut from a scrap car the fit is instant and perfect.
leave at least a a 3/4" overlap and secure with four fasteners...or more if
you go large.
Weld nuts or palnuts on engine side of firewall

[930cabman]

If you want the firewall piece, I have one from a parts car. $50 + ship.

Can you post a photo? is it a bolt on? sounds like an easy button thanks

It’s just the cut out firewall center section. I’ll dig it up and post a pic. The advantage over a piece of sheet steel is it follows the curves of the firewall.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) with a piece cut from a scrap car the fit is instant and perfect.
leave at least a a 3/4" overlap and secure with four fasteners...or more if
you go large.
Weld nuts or palnuts on engine side of firewall

I like the look of the painted firewall, how is the engine noise?

[rgalla9146]

Plenty.
Haven't found a simple effective solution.
I'm considering the rubbery asphalt mat that was used in early cars covered with
form fitting perlon.
I don't want anything 'fancy'

[mepstein]

Plenty.
Haven't found a simple effective solution.
I'm considering the rubbery asphalt mat that was used in early cars covered with
form fitting perlon.
I don't want anything 'fancy'

Rory - Look at “Lizard Skin”. Great product. Easy to apply. Very effective. Can be painted over.

[ConeDodger]

can someone with a six show how hard it is to get in there to change the belt?

I was looking at the /4 the other day...and that is no walk in the park.
I recall this car is all about closing your eyes and doing the work purely based upon touch.

Can you fit all the required tools in to properly change a belt on a six...without ever having to drop the motor?

Rich

It’s easy to change the belt. You drop the motor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) No holes will ever be cut in my firewall while my name is on the title.

I remember a phone call from McMark asking about the four mounts. My response to his question “do you see yourself ever going back to a four cylinder?” Was “Remove the mounts Mark!”

[ClayPerrine]

It’s easy to change the belt. You drop the motor. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) No holes will ever be cut in my firewall while my name is on the title.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

1000%

[Justinp71]

Removing the engine mounts does make for a cleaner look, only reason to keep is if you have future thoughts of a different motor install. LS and most other engine swaps use them. Once you go six though you just want to make it bigger... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif).

I did have to remove the rear brake (anti lock?) valve when I installed the Rich Johnson mount.

I have a fresh 2.7 on the shelf scheduled to go in hopefully soon. If anything I would hop up the 2.7 or increase power some other way. I would probably not go an LS

Considering either Webers or CIS, Webers will probably get the nod, need to look at the throttle shafts soon

Originally I went from a tired 2.7CIS to a 3.0 with Webers, headers and mild cam (DC20 I think). Big difference in power and overall responsiveness. Carbs can be a little stinky in general though. I added breather recirculation which helps.

[Root_Werks]

If you already have a fresh 2.7:

Drop in Solex cams if you plan to use carbs
Drop in 964 cams if you plan to use CIS

Or sell it and buy a higher HP engine.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[930cabman]

If you already have a fresh 2.7:

Drop in Solex cams if you plan to use carbs
Drop in 964 cams if you plan to use CIS

Or sell it and buy a higher HP engine.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

Yes, my engine builder suggested the Solex cams. She is fresh and I can't wait to fire her up for the first time. I have a set of 40 IDTP carbs on the shelf, but need to go through them

[930cabman]

Using the Maddog OEM style engine mount requires the brake regulator to be moved an inch or so to the West. Where is a good source for metric brake lines and fittings? Are they the same/similar to domestic "double flare"?

[brant]

I believe the correct flare is different
Called a bubble flair