Welding Question, Welding Options

[Bigdamdork]

Hey Everyone. Based in no small part on the suggestions from my original thread about what order to do my restore I picked up some steel and pushed my Makita metal cut-off saw the limit. I'm ready to start putting this together. My question is I have a Weldpack 3200. I bought it a couple of years ago just to play with things. Some metal art, built a Santa Maria Style BBQ, etc. Per the instructions, the metal is .125 (so close to 11 gauge?) for the 2x4's. Am I fooling myself by thinking I could use this welder to put the jig together? The welder says it can handle 12ga to 1/4" with .035 gasless flux cored wire DC(-). I just don't know enough about the duty cycle, etc. to know if I should just suck it up and buy a bigger welder. I figure once I get into the car I should be fine as it's mostly 18ga sheet metal so I hate to buy one just for the jig but will if I need to I guess. Maybe find a buddy with one. Just wanted to get some expert's thoughts as my total welding time is about 2 hours. I plan on being an expert post-rebuild. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif)

Super appreciate any advice you can offer. Thank You!!
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[jhynesrockmtn]

Try it or test on a similar gauge metal. If the weld sucks on your jig you can clean it up. You'll know if the welds are good. I'd agree, would be a shame to buy and different welder, especially if you've gotten comfortable with that one.

[Superhawk996]

It will work

I just used a whimpy 120v welder to weld 3/16” bracket to 3/8” plate steel.

0.035 flux core.

Had to preheat the plate with MAPP gas. This minimises the cold start, lack of fusion when you 1st start the bead. Not my prettiest work but it is functional and that was the only welder I have available at the moment.

Worst case, preheat the tube with propane or MAPP gas but I don’t think you’ll need to with 1/8” tube.

[flat4guy]

I have helped a friend build 3 cars using this same welder - we did floors, quarters and more. Good welder.

[targa72e]

I think the important part is you are not making a structural part where the weld needs to be as strong or stronger than the base metal. You might not get great penetration but it will be more than strong enough to make a cart to put a body on. I have made similar body transport mechanisms out of 2x4 and screws that worked fine. Made a similar structure to pull the drive train out of my turbo cayenne out of 4x4 and some harbor freight wheels to remove the drive train, worked fine.

john

[MikeK]

With that 110V welder, I’d consider tapering the ends of your material to 45 degrees, making a root pass followed with a hot pass. That will be ensure penetration. There’s really no need to pre-heat. Tack it up then burn it in.

I have the 220V version of that welder. Works well for me has been reliable for about 12 years now.

BTW, you’d be hard pressed to find 18G on your 914. Maybe the chassis? Pretty sure that they were stamped from 1mm (19G). They’re usually that gauge or less at the highest crowns of the panels.

[mb911]

Ok I hate these threads only because 99.9% of the people that comment at people that bought a welders and are now “welders” not to say the people that have commented already are those people just saying from the perspective of being a professional welding educator and national welding educator trainer. I will use the KISS method and say this. When MIG welding use the bench mark of each amp = .001 of inch capability so if it’s 125amps it is capable of properly welding .125 or 1/8” steel. This is regardless of flux core or solid wire with gas.

[Superhawk996]

@mb911

Curious about the duty cycle. His machine like mine is a very low duty cycle.

In my case; welding thicker material than I should. As bead goes down, it does a good job of heating that thick base metal. This makes me want to keep running bead. But I feel compelled to only weld for about 2 minutes and then let the machine cool before doing the next bead. The problem is allowing the machine to cool also allows the thick base to cool which I really don’t want.

Any thoughts on how to best handle the low duty cycle? What fails if overheated - I assume rectification diodes?

[Shivers]

I’m using the same welder. I built this contraption with it, 1/4”, 3/16” and 1/8” steel. I used a map gas torch to heat the 1/4” plate. Clean where you are going to weld and it should do the job.

[mb911]

@mb911

Curious about the duty cycle. His machine like mine is a very low duty cycle.

In my case; welding thicker material than I should. As bead goes down, it does a good job of heating that thick base metal. This makes me want to keep running bead. But I feel compelled to only weld for about 2 minutes and then let the machine cool before doing the next bead. The problem is allowing the machine to cool also allows the thick base to cool which I really don’t want.

Any thoughts on how to best handle the low duty cycle? What fails if overheated - I assume rectification diodes?

20% duty cycle is 2 minutes of straight welding. That’s a lot of welding. Most people complete a weld in 10-30 seconds. If running max amperage that 2 minutes of max amperage is quite a weld. Most amateur welders never are going to be doing welds to exceed duty cycles. Also remember when exceeded amperage occurs most machines will not provide output until the machine has cooled.

[mlindner]

And then if you are using an extension cord, keep it short and a heavy gauge.

[930cabman]

Try it and keep your eye on overheating the machine.

[Superhawk996]

And then if you are using an extension cord, keep it short and a heavy gauge.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I was breaking all the rules ! 10 gauge 50’ was all I had. Get er done!

[Jack Standz]

Not an expert here, but you'll probably be happier with the results if you invest in a gas shielded welder for the work you have planned for the 914. Flux core is not as good for that part of the project. Best wishes for your project.

[mb911]

Ok one last tidbit. So there is this negative thought on self shielded flux core (they make a gas shield version). Self shield flux core is used extensively in iron working on the west coast so almost every commercial building you see in California, Arizona, Nevada, etc is built using a self shielded flux core almost identical to what your running in your little 110 welders (common type NR211)

[Jack Standz]

Yes, choose the right process for the project and have enough skills and competency to do the job well (which probably leaves me out most of the time). YMMV

"There is no one-size-fits-all welding solution."

https://www.millerwelds.com/resources/artic...se-them-and-why

[76-914]

@mb911

Curious about the duty cycle. His machine like mine is a very low duty cycle.

In my case; welding thicker material than I should. As bead goes down, it does a good job of heating that thick base metal. This makes me want to keep running bead. But I feel compelled to only weld for about 2 minutes and then let the machine cool before doing the next bead. The problem is allowing the machine to cool also allows the thick base to cool which I really don’t want.

Any thoughts on how to best handle the low duty cycle? What fails if overheated - I assume rectification diodes?

I watched this video comparing cheap welders. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IK_Cn5lxggA And they threw in a Lincoln just to compare. Everyone of the cheap welders, and there were many, exaggerated their amperage big time. One of the cheap ones was close. The Lincoln was dead nuts on every spec it advertised. To your question re: duty cycles; it killed a few of them. My Miller just needs a breather when it goes past its duty cycle. It has only happened twice. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Superhawk996]

. . .(they make a gas shield version).

Do tell - not aware of something different than common flux core.

When you say they make a gas shield version - are you referring to solid wire used with typical shielding gas or are you saying there is a self shielding version that doesn’t leave usual flux core kind of slag and spatter?

I apologize if I’m misunderstanding the post. Would love some thing self shielding for outside use but less messy than NR-211 type flux core wire.

@mb911

[mb911]

. . .(they make a gas shield version).

Do tell - not aware of something different than common flux core.

When you say they make a gas shield version - are you referring to solid wire used with typical shielding gas or are you saying there is a self shielding version that doesn’t leave usual flux core kind of slag and spatter?

I apologize if I’m misunderstanding the post. Would love some thing self shielding for outside use but less messy than NR-211 type flux core wire.

@mb911

Gas shielded flux core is very common in manufacturing. It is still a tubular wire (hollow) with flux and then they use typically co2 or a 75/25 mix. Often referred to dual shield. AWS numbers of E71-T or similar. It is meant for heavy plate welding and favors spray transfer mode.

[Superhawk996]

. . .(they make a gas shield version).

Do tell - not aware of something different than common flux core.

When you say they make a gas shield version - are you referring to solid wire used with typical shielding gas or are you saying there is a self shielding version that doesn’t leave usual flux core kind of slag and spatter?

I apologize if I’m misunderstanding the post. Would love some thing self shielding for outside use but less messy than NR-211 type flux core wire.

@mb911

Gas shielded flux core is very common in manufacturing. It is still a tubular wire (hollow) with flux and then they use typically co2 or a 75/25 mix. Often referred to dual shield. AWS numbers of E71-T or similar. It is meant for heavy plate welding and favors spray transfer mode.

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