Engine Long Term Storage Options

[Bigdamdork]

Hey everyone. I have what I hope is an easy question. I am planning on pulling my motor out either this weekend or the next and am planning on it being out for at least a year as I'm stripping most of the major components out to start working on the longs.

The guy I bought it from owns a German Auto garage so he went through the motor and it runs great right now. He didn't rebuild the motor but did overhaul the FI system from top to bottom. Also new plugs, wires, coil, oil, etc.

Basically, I want to make sure when I go to put it back in it will hopefully run in the same way it does now. I'll be storing it in my garage under a tarp in the corner so it won't be exposed to the elements or anything. I had someone mention fogging oil at some point in the past and was wondering it that is a good idea?

Just looking for any suggestions on what I should do. I figure I'll replace the clutch while it's out as well but that can be in the future.

Thanks for any advice you can offer.

[technicalninja]

Change engine oil and filter.
Fog while running until it chokes out and dies. MMO is what I use.
Remove engine, remove spark plugs, dump 3 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and rotate by hand slowly 5-6 360 degree turns.
Remove/loosen rocker arms to relieve tension on valve springs.
Screw plugs back in till they touch the head.
Re-install valve covers.
Remove/plug intake. Get all of the tubes closed. Mud dabbers love to nest in an engine.

Years/decades later...
Remove plugs.
Tighten/adjust valves.
Spin over with starter with rags over spark plug holes.
Install new plugs.
Start engine and run till oil gets hot.
Change oil and filter.

[Front yard mechanic]

Just run some non ethanol through it. Tarp it and stick it in the garage it will be good for a year. You will change the oil when you reinstall.

[brant]

I’ve had good luck with fogging sprays
They sell it a boat shops
I’m se it with the motor running until it kills the engine

[Porschef]

All good advice, it’s like winterizing a boat engine.

It’s easy to fog it out with carbs, you may have to get more creative if you have fuel injection. A little overkill doesn’t hurt, you can spray any steel bits with WD-40 or the like for its hibernation. And if you’re going to tarp it, throw a couplafew moth balls in ther so it doesn’t become a mouse motel. Little bastids get into everything; I had a nest in the belt housing of my drill press.

[NARP74]

Sta Bil has a fogging oil too, my FLAPS had it.

[rfinegan]

May not be mentioned, rotate the engine over a few times every now and again. It keeps things lubed and keeps the valve springs from taking a set( sure lots of debate on this one) but I have seen my springs being shorter on take down. Up to you to decide ....

"Remove/loosen rocker arms to relieve tension on valve springs.” see above

[Bigdamdork]

As per always, thank you so much for all the advice! It gives me avenues to do additional research. Super appreciate it!

Rented a storage space for car parts on Saturday so going to finally start stripping her apart next week.

Thanks again!

[Bigdamdork]

Change engine oil and filter.
Fog while running until it chokes out and dies. MMO is what I use.
Remove engine, remove spark plugs, dump 3 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and rotate by hand slowly 5-6 360 degree turns.
Remove/loosen rocker arms to relieve tension on valve springs.
Screw plugs back in till they touch the head.
Re-install valve covers.
Remove/plug intake. Get all of the tubes closed. Mud dabbers love to nest in an engine.

Years/decades later...
Remove plugs.
Tighten/adjust valves.
Spin over with starter with rags over spark plug holes.
Install new plugs.
Start engine and run till oil gets hot.
Change oil and filter.

One clarifying question if you don't mind? I've read it might not be the best idea to fog an engine that runs on FI as you can clog the injectors. Any thoughts on this? Am going to pull this weekend and probably follow your steps just want to make sure the injectors will be ok. They are literally brand new and from Bosch so don't want to screw them up. Again, very much appreciate any advice. TY!

[flyer86d]

In addition to the great advice, I like to run the engine on 100LL Avgas before long term storage. Remember, airplanes tend to sit for periods. Avgas does not sour like auto gas and does not require fuel stabilizers. Don’t use it in cars with cats though. It has lead.

Charlie

[technicalninja]

Change engine oil and filter.
Fog while running until it chokes out and dies. MMO is what I use.
Remove engine, remove spark plugs, dump 3 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder and rotate by hand slowly 5-6 360 degree turns.
Remove/loosen rocker arms to relieve tension on valve springs.
Screw plugs back in till they touch the head.
Re-install valve covers.
Remove/plug intake. Get all of the tubes closed. Mud dabbers love to nest in an engine.

Years/decades later...
Remove plugs.
Tighten/adjust valves.
Spin over with starter with rags over spark plug holes.
Install new plugs.
Start engine and run till oil gets hot.
Change oil and filter.

One clarifying question if you don't mind? I've read it might not be the best idea to fog an engine that runs on FI as you can clog the injectors. Any thoughts on this? Am going to pull this weekend and probably follow your steps just want to make sure the injectors will be ok. They are literally brand new and from Bosch so don't want to screw them up. Again, very much appreciate any advice. TY!

You're fogging through the intake and NOT putting anything in the fuel. The injector tips don't care about the atmosphere they fire into. Now, the guy below has an EXCELLENT suggestion that I wholehearted agree with regarding fuel system preparation for storage.

In addition to the great advice, I like to run the engine on 100LL Avgas before long term storage. Remember, airplanes tend to sit for periods. Avgas does not sour like auto gas and does not require fuel stabilizers. Don’t use it in cars with cats though. It has lead.

Charlie

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
This is EXCELLENT advice if you can swing it. Good quality AV gas or true "race fuel" with no added BS can sometimes last a decade and still function.
My landlord runs his entire fleet of muscle cars (he's a collector) on what he calls 100 low lead. He buys it in 55-gallon drums and it's still sort of pricey...
He's put less than 100 miles on a 1970 Chevelle SS big block 4 speed in the last 5 years and it starts and runs fine on the same gas that was in it 5 years ago.
What Andy uses is a VP product specifically for automobiles. It's probably not legal to use in aircraft.
His factory AC that I rebuilt (changed BACK to R12) still works fine too!
I HATE R12 leaks. Stuff is too expensive to allow loss.