Replace front Bilstein struts with Koni, front strut replacement Options

[Peeterabytes]

Hey Bestest Experts!

(Sorry if this has been asked before but couldn't find it in the threads.)

I am in the process of replacing the front struts and rear shocks on my 914. I went from just replacing the front struts to basically overhauling the entire front end suspension. Might as well right? (Please stop me) Anyway, I purchased the Koni struts as part of the rear coil over package from Ground Control Systems.

This past weekend got the entire right side strut housing removed (still working on the dang castle ball joint nut but that's another story filled with curse words (IMG:style_emoticons/default/evilgrin.gif) ) and then noticed some discrepancies between what the car currently has (yellow Bilsteins) and the Konis. Like the Bilsteins have the metal ring over guide but nothing else was on them. Whereas the Konis came with plastic washer ring over guide and numerous other washers and tubes would fit other models:


Mine didn't come with the lock washer or top nut but all those other washers/fittings.

I am thinking take off the bumper, put on the old metal metal ring that I can torque, and then put the bumper back on. Sound about right?

Also, there was no hydraulic fluid inside the strut housing when I removed the Bilstein. Probably cause it's been 30+ years since last replaced? According to Koni 50ml or so should be added. Is that still required nowadays? Any suggestion on brands?

Thanks in advanced!

Peter

[windforfun]

Call George at AA. He's a sublime resource.

[mepstein]

Bilstein states in their instructions not to add any oil. I’m not sure about Koni but a sealed insert shouldn’t need any. I do dab some grease on the end before I insert the insert because - east coast rust and corrosion.

[914Sixer]

New Koni has standoff on bottom to prevent rust from sticking in the tube.

[Peeterabytes]

Call George at AA. He's a sublime resource.

Not familiar with George and hate to impose but contacting the vendor is a good idea. I'll do that. Thanks

[Peeterabytes]

New Koni has standoff on bottom to prevent rust from sticking in the tube.

Because of that standoff at bottom, it doesn't make much sense to me to add fluid in the strut housing.

Now if the strut was like flush with the bottom, yes makes sense. Would help prevent it from seizing in the housing.

Thanks!

[jcd914]

I was taught (many years ago) that adding oil to the strut housing when replacing the strut insert was about transferring the heat from the new strut insert to the strut housing where it could dissipating to the air.
The original struts do not have inserts, they just had the shock guts and some really foul oil.

I understand the theory and added oil to a lot of struts over the years, it was the norm at 2 of the 4 shops I worked at.
But Is it needed? Or Is it effective?
I don't have those answers.

Jim

[Peeterabytes]

I was taught (many years ago) that adding oil to the strut housing when replacing the strut insert was about transferring the heat from the new strut insert to the strut housing where it could dissipating to the air.
The original struts do not have inserts, they just had the shock guts and some really foul oil.

I understand the theory and added oil to a lot of struts over the years, it was the norm at 2 of the 4 shops I worked at.
But Is it needed? Or Is it effective?
I don't have those answers.

Jim

I went to Koni's website and asked via their contact page whether the fluid is needed. Their response is below. Interesting that it's more needed if tracked regularly but also to ease out for next time (as experts highlighted above in thread) plus suggestions on what to fill with.