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> Can I repair that roof/handle ?
boutch55555
post Jan 6 2024, 05:50 PM
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So, I just got myself a nice money pit 1970 914. One of the issues is that the front right handle for the roof has been ripped off, along with the anchor. Can I safely "glue" it back ? If so, with what and how ? Oh, and hello everyone, been reading very nice threads here. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

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URY914
post Jan 6 2024, 06:11 PM
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Try JB Weld.
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930cabman
post Jan 6 2024, 06:21 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/welcome.png)

I might try a two part epoxy glue, something that will flow a bit. Make sure all is clean prior.
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Ishley
post Jan 6 2024, 07:34 PM
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Yes you could fix it with epoxy (west system or system 3 will work). Make sure you weigh the mix exactly and that it cures in a warm environment. I would then add a reinforcements patch of epoxy and fiberglass cloth over it to make sure it holds. You need to check the adjustment on the handles and also make sure you fit the clamp into the slot so you don’t over stress the fiberglass.

You might also check around for a whole new targa top. I think you should be able to find one. Might be easier then chasing a repair and hoping it holds.
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emerygt350
post Jan 6 2024, 08:16 PM
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Glue will never hold it 'really'. You would need a big patch to give it any meaningful strength. I would create a metal plate with the attachment point and glue it to the roof with maybe 8 inches of extra surface area if I wanted to trust it, but even then I wouldn't consider it a permanent fix.
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bkrantz
post Jan 6 2024, 09:01 PM
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The roof is fiberglass, so you might try a polyester resin.
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boutch55555
post Jan 7 2024, 06:16 AM
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QUOTE(emerygt350 @ Jan 6 2024, 09:16 PM) *

Glue will never hold it 'really'. You would need a big patch to give it any meaningful strength. I would create a metal plate with the attachment point and glue it to the roof with maybe 8 inches of extra surface area if I wanted to trust it, but even then I wouldn't consider it a permanent fix.


That was my main concern. Even with the extra plate I have doubts. Given the position of the anchor so close to the edge, it won't add much in the front to back axis, where stiffness would be required.

I'll try that route, but I think I might end up drilling through the roof, chromed domed bolt heads wouldn't look too bad if I do it on both sides.
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emerygt350
post Jan 7 2024, 07:53 AM
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And immediately start looking for a replacement....

So many 914s have turned to dust and those roofs are pretty tough. Probably more of them around than cars for them.
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mepstein
post Jan 7 2024, 08:22 AM
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Yea, next time you meet up with some 914 guys, ask around if anyone has an extra top hanging around their garage. You might be pleasantly surprised. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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boutch55555
post Jan 7 2024, 09:07 AM
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Yeah, already looking, but 914s are not exactly common up north in Quebec and I'd like to avoid paying too much for shipping.
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gereed75
post Jan 7 2024, 09:47 AM
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Instead of a bolt, maybe you could fix the plate with some countersunk fasteners (along with the epoxy), maybe even rivets. Done carefully the countersunk head could fairly easily be “hidden” with some textured paint.

Not perfect but less obvious than a bolt head.

There is even a technique called “double flush riveting” used in aircraft construction that produces a flush head on both sides. There are also double flush pull rivets.

I would epoxy in first, allow it to cure, then drill the composite sandwich and st the rivets. This will give you a better rivet set than trying to do it with wet epoxy in the joint IMHO
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76-914
post Jan 7 2024, 10:25 AM
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That fiberglass repair should be scarfed. Any boat shops in your area that you could take it to? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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technicalninja
post Jan 7 2024, 11:23 AM
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https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Might-Repair-...PD_BwE&th=1

This is the stuff I use when I need to fix a fiberglass part and require strength.

Nothing else like it in the world!

A 2 oz kit will work for that repair.

I've always bought it in quarts, and they are DAMNED expensive today!

After it dries you can actually thread it.

It can go on UNDERWATER! It's boat shit...

The catalyst SMOKES when you open it!

Marine Tex is bad assed!

I'm with the other posters, find another top.

If you have to fix that (even temporarily) use the Marine Tex.
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bkrantz
post Jan 7 2024, 09:28 PM
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QUOTE(technicalninja @ Jan 7 2024, 10:23 AM) *

https://www.amazon.com/Marine-Might-Repair-...PD_BwE&th=1

This is the stuff I use when I need to fix a fiberglass part and require strength.

Nothing else like it in the world!

A 2 oz kit will work for that repair.

I've always bought it in quarts, and they are DAMNED expensive today!

After it dries you can actually thread it.

It can go on UNDERWATER! It's boat shit...

The catalyst SMOKES when you open it!

Marine Tex is bad assed!

I'm with the other posters, find another top.

If you have to fix that (even temporarily) use the Marine Tex.



That stuff looks interesting.
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willieg
post Jan 8 2024, 10:42 AM
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Adding to @gereed75 comments about countersunk fasteners, check out T-nuts at your local hardware store. If you were not concerned about a concours top, T-nuts would work very well and with a very little counter sinking of the base of the T-nut, a thin coat of bondo and textured paint, the repair would be good.
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worn
post Jan 8 2024, 03:49 PM
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QUOTE(URY914 @ Jan 6 2024, 05:11 PM) *

Try JB Weld.


It is fiberglass from the era. Should be able to bond it back together. Need the part completely clean, and I would remove the felted headliner to see what is really going on. What is the tan material behind the hole? They sell small fiberglass kits if you want a broader repair. I used to fix sailboats by grinding away to clean resin and glass and then replace what I took away with progressively wider pieces of glass fabric. Then grind flush with sand paper.
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