Help! Half-shaft bolts stripped - HOW to remove?, Bolt removal Options

[Gatornapper]

Should have replaced two of my bolts that hold the half-shaft to the tranny hub last time when I saw the 12 points failing.....but I didn't.

Now I've got 2 that I cannot get out and they are totally stripped in the 12-pt. center.

Have good bolt remover but it won't get on the head because distance to center is too small.

My small 10" pipe wrench can't get a grip on it either.

Should I heat where threads are on hub?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Tranny ready to come off except for these two bolts.

TIA,

GN

Pics coming shortly....

[brant]

Big vice grips and heat?

lots of kroil

[Gatornapper]

Yes, had 12-pt bit under great pressure before rotating......bit is good, no wear on it....

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10" pipe wrench too big to fit on head...

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[mepstein]

Air hammer/chisel. Makes short work of it.

[rudedude]

Use the air hammer chisel on the edge of the bolt to spin it out as @mepstein says. If no air hammer use a sharp chisel and hammer to do the same. Worst case take your die grinder with a good cutting wheel and cut it off.

[technicalninja]

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He hit all the things I'd try.

I've found the "trick" with 12 points (triple square for some-especially when looking for tools) is to CLEAN them out completely. Pick and air first then pick and carb cleaner then air. Medically clean before any torque is applied.

Works much better when stupid clean (this is before the centers are FUBAR).

Another thing that might help right now.
Cut the rubber boot off and clean up all of the grease before going much further.
Improve access to your playing field...
Boots look old anyway.

[Root_Werks]

Lucky that wasn't at the trailing arm side!

I've had good luck with a very good pair of vice-grips. A cheap pair doesn't usually grip well enough.

Never tried the air-chisel.

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[mepstein]

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He hit all the things I'd try.

I've found the "trick" with 12 points (triple square for some-especially when looking for tools) is to CLEAN them out completely. Pick and air first then pick and carb cleaner then air. Medically clean before any torque is applied.

Works much better when stupid clean (this is before the centers are FUBAR).

Another thing that might help right now.
Cut the rubber boot off and clean up all of the grease before going much further.
Improve access to your playing field...
Boots look old anyway.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Cleaning them and using a good tool is the first step.

[live free & drive]

Try a Knipex Cobra - they make them down to 100mm, but longer will give more leverage.

https://www.knipex.com/products/pipe-wrench...ter-pump-pliers

[T.Rick6]

I would use a whiz wheel to cut a slot in the head then use a impact driver with a straight bit, smack it good. I've had to do this several times myself ,never failed to get them out.

Todd
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[rjames]

I would use a whiz wheel to cut a slot in the head then use a impact driver with a straight bit, smack it good. I've had to do this several times myself ,never failed to get them out.

Todd
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This gets my vote if you can't get a pair of vice grips on it.
If you don't have air tools, you could use a dremel to cut a big enough slot in the head to fit a big ass flathead screw driver in it sideways and loosen it. You wouldn't have to cut the boot that way.

[Spoke]

12 points

Don't have any tips to help; just a question:

Why does the 914 use 12 point socket head screws whereas my '86 911 uses 6 point (hex) socket head screws? Seems like the 6 point has more material to bite on.

[NARP74]

I read a note on the PMB site that they replace the 12 pt with 6 pt when they leave the shop.

[GregAmy]

There's nothing wrong with 12-point socket heads...when used correctly. VW used them throughout the Rabbit/Scirocco line, too.

- Clean the threads
- Rotate the shaft so your tools/extensions inline with the axis of the bolt
- 31 ft-lbs. No more, no less
- Use these: https://914rubber.com/cv-joint-bolt-m8-x-45-1-1
- And these: https://914rubber.com/schnorr-washer-for-8mm
- Safety wire them
- Keep a couple extra around to replace them if one gets buggered up

I've never had a problem with these bolts, in any of my VW or Porsche. - GA

[brant]

Definitely clean any 12 point with a pic and brake cleaner. Every time

I don’t have trouble with 12 point either

[Gatornapper]

Many thanks to all for all the great ideas.

My thought was that an 8" pipe wrench should fit the head and the clearances. Found a nice one at my local hardware store just 4 country hiway miles away, $15 and worth every penny - and the bolts came off incredibly easy.

I was planning on Dremel the heads off if the 8" didn't work.

Great thing about a pipe wrench vs. vise grips is that the more torque you put on the wrench, the tighter it grips. Could not believe how easy they both came out. As always, having the right tool for the job is everything.

And great tips/wisdom about thoroughly cleaning both the 12 pt. bit and the bolts before torquing. I've never used them before in almost 60 years of wrenching. I can see cleaning them as being the critical issue.

Also great point in how critical correct torque is.

Again, thanks for all the great ideas.

GN

Wrench below:

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[burton73]

You will try lots of things to get this bad boy off but I am thinking that you clean the hell out of it and then squeeze a hard nut on it with a vice grip and weld it on. Remove the grips and The heat from welding should help and you should be able to get it off.

You know that you are going to dick with a number of different ways and then the satisfying sound of the nut coming loose.

Good luck,

Bob B

[Gatornapper]

Bob -

Thanks! But guessed you missed the part that I got it off quite easily with a smal 8" pipe wrench.

I didn't think anyone made them that small, but found one right away - perfect tool for the job - and any like it in the future. A tool I'm really glad to have now.

GN

You will try lots of things to get this bad boy off but I am thinking that you clean the hell out of it and then squeeze a hard nut on it with a vice grip and weld it on. Remove the grips and The heat from welding should help and you should be able to get it off.

You know that you are going to dick with a number of different ways and then the satisfying sound of the nut coming loose.

Good luck,

Bob B

[bkrantz]

MORE TOOLS!

[VaccaRabite]

When I had this issue I welded some steel to the end of the stripped bolt and turned it out. Took longer to set up the welder then to free the stripped bolts.

I’ve replaced them all with Allen socket bolts.

Zach