Stripped oil drain plug, What are the solutions? Options

[JeffBowlsby]

My daily driver japanese car has an aluminum oil pan…I was sensing that the oil drain plug was going to give way last oil change…was afraid to torque to full value.

I was right…it stripped out on me completely today. Went to my local Foreign car FLAPS to get a 1-oversized plug. It stripped out too when I installed it. FLAPS had a couple other options. See photo.

The left photo is the stripped out stock 14x1.5. 2nd from left is the $71-size oversized, notice it’s longer than stock. A 2X and 3X oversize is callable I’ll probably go this route. 3rd from left is $3…it has a silicone surface gasket and states on it to only hand tighten. I have no confidence in it long term, but might work temporarily. Last one on the right is $7, plastic body, silicone expanding sleeve, and it’s 5/8” OD.

Any better solutions out there other than pulling the pan, welding it closed and tapping a new hole? Timesert maybe?

[Fazasport]

My daily driver japanese car has an aluminum oil pan…I was sensing that the oil drain plug was going to give way last oil change…was afraid to torque to full value.

I was right…it stripped out on me completely today. Went to my local Foreign car FLAPS to get a 1-oversized plug. It stripped out too when I installed it. FLAPS had a couple other options. See photo.

The left photo is the stripped out stock 14x1.5. 2nd from left is the $71-size oversized, notice it’s longer than stock. A 2X and 3X oversize is callable I’ll probably go this route. 3rd from left is $3…it has a silicone surface gasket and states on it to only hand tighten. I have no confidence in it long term, but might work temporarily. Last one on the right is $7, plastic body, silicone expanding sleeve, and it’s 5/8” OD.

Any better solutions out there other than pulling the pan, welding it closed and tapping a new hole? Timesert maybe?

Jeff - I have used timeserts in the past with great success. I think it may be a perfect solution for your problem.

[mb911]

My son’s 06 civic has a stripped drain plug. I was able to get it to seal and now use a suction device through the dipstick l

[mepstein]

You could replace the pan.

[technicalninja]

I've used Helicoils and time-serts before.

You have to have enough flange and crush ring to completely cover the insert which has to be lower than the original pan surface.

Those repairs seem to be weaker than the original set up. The helicoil/timesert tends to remove itself from the pan down the road. There is usually not enough "meat" to properly swag the time-sert.

As long as the pan is available, and you don't have to remove engine from chassis to change, I recommend the "replace pan" suggestion above all else.

The real solution is to NEVER let the animals in a quicky oil change shop change your oil!

Cleaning it up, JBWelding it in, and using a suction tool to change the oil IS a viable option. As long as no one ever tries to remove the plug it won't leak.

Changing oil with a suction device is NOT a normal procedure in my book.

Now a NAV (negative actual value) beater with an expensive pan that is a bitch to remove I'd do this way...

[StarBear]

As a daily driver, reliability is essential. If available, doable, and can afford, I’d replace the pan. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[VaccaRabite]

Replace the pan.
Or... If you needed an excuse to go buy another car....

Zach

[r_towle]

ok, first off...its March.
your Daily driver should now be a classic Porsche.

Now you have time to solve the other car properly.

Get a new or used pan...they are out there.

All fun aside, I actually used a torque wrench for the first time ever on my oil drain plug over the weekend...maybe it will work??


Rich

[Lockwodo]

Why not tap the hole for a larger metric drain plug bolt? Coat the tap with grease to catch filings and dump a quart of oil through the pan when you're done to rinse out any filings that make it inside the pan.

[rhodyguy]

We had to have the pan replaced. Never so much as a drop. The ‘trusted’ shop that changed the oil told me the front end of the body had to come off to pull the timing belt (the new desk guy said chain) cover as the engine was leaking. Then, while they were in there it was recommended we replace the “chain” and tensioner. I never went back. Quote was $2.7k and they would need the car “for a few days”.

The leak was the drain bolt. Not the cover.

Jeff, bite the bullet and do the pan. Those plugs are only stop gap fixes. Would you trust them 100%? Out of habit I look for drips when the car is off property. Nope. Dry.

[Front yard mechanic]

Use the blue plug and drive that shiter

[Tom1394racing]

This happened to me on my Honda Ridgeline. The local NAPA shop had a replacement plug designed to fix the problem and it worked.

[930cabman]

Is it time for a new car?

[Jack Standz]

We've upgraded to these style drains:

https://www.amazon.com/ValvoMax-Oil-Drain-V...54075&psc=1.

Not necessarily from this vendor, but you get the idea.

Epoxy it in & oil changes where you're fishing the plug out of the drain pan are no more. The check valve prevents the oil from leaking out of the pan, so you don't have to torque the plug into the soft aluminum of the pan over & over again.

Here's a less expensive one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C7QXW6CJ/ref=ss...RhaWwp13NParams

[bkrantz]

Similar to what Jack suggested, how about a "permanent" plug that has a lever valve, like Fumoto?

https://www.fumotousa.com

I have one on my truck and love it. You might be able to install one with something like JB Weld, and at least drive the car until you replace the pan.