No start 1974 2.0, 1974 2.0 will not start after 2 hour drive Options

[zaballosc]

Hi all,

We just drove our 914 to Road America after 2 years of incremental work. Over the past year it has started perfectly, and it did the drive perfectly. It has a new starter that has been working great. We parked for registration, and when we got back to the car it would not crank. Fuel pump is running, electrical is working, but the car is not cranking or starting on a bump start. Any ideas? I checked the relays and relay board connections.

Currently waiting on a tow.

[emerygt350]

Sounds like you need a Ford solenoid kit, takes 20 minutes to install. {runs for cover}

[emerygt350]

If you want to try jumping it in the meantime, just run a screw driver from the hot wire to the solenoid. Make sure it's in neutral.

[emerygt350]

You couldn't push start it? Carbs?

And a new starter isn't any guarantee it is a good starter.

[Freezin 914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) A lot of cars suffer from this issue. I am guessing it will start after it cools down.

[Freezin 914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) A lot of cars suffer from this issue. I am guessing it will start after it cools down.

[r_towle]

Transmission to body Ground strap and battery ground to chassis ground strap need removal and cleaning with a wire brush annually.
Heat in starter motor creates more resistance.

Advance plates in dizzy get stuck in the advance position during hot motor shut down if the oem grease is still in between the plates and they have not been cleaned.

[zaballosc]

Hi all, thank you for all of the advice.

I was able to get it towed home, to answer one of your questions it is a FI car. We got it back home on a lift and found that 12.9 volts of power is reaching the starter. So I am thinking that we might have a bad starter. Drats! it was so easy to install when the motor was on the ground, now i'm considering what the swap will be like while it's in the car.

[bkrantz]

Hi all, thank you for all of the advice.

I was able to get it towed home, to answer one of your questions it is a FI car. We got it back home on a lift and found that 12.9 volts of power is reaching the starter. So I am thinking that we might have a bad starter. Drats! it was so easy to install when the motor was on the ground, now i'm considering what the swap will be like while it's in the car.

Not a bad job if you can lift the car high enough to work comfortably and SAFELY underneath.

[emerygt350]

Was that 12.9 while you were turning the key? And you want to know how much is hitting the solenoid.

[Superhawk996]

Seems like everyone has glossed over the fact that it would not bump start?

Don’t know details. Was car rolling fast enough? Did it sputter but not catch and old geezers (like me) got tired pushing. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

The failure to crank and its failure to get root cause solution is so well documented it’s almost ridiculous.

Failure to crank and failure to bump start . . . Less so.

Where is fuel pump located and was it vapor locked simultaneously? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

[emerygt350]

I have had that happen back when I just got the car. Very frustrating.

To replace the starter is just removing the left rear wheel and two bolts. Super easy, but do make sure it's not the low voltage to the solenoid issue first. Not much point in worrying about the bump start issue till you get it to turn over. Is it a 74 or later? I don't know anything about the seat belt cut out but I know people have problems with that too.

[Superhawk996]

Not much point in worrying about the bump start issue till you get it to turn over.

Going to have to disagree with you.

When troubleshooting electrical issues it’s always important to understand all the symptoms.

The failure to bump start could be pointing toward a bad engine to transmission ground which could simultaneously affects both the starter and the ECU grounds. Likewise a bad battery negative ground to chassis would prevent both cranking and bump starting.

Just a failure to crank could be excessive voltage drop from ignition switch or it could be the seat belt interlock (assuming that is still in place and not bypassed). In either fails to crank case, it would bump start and run.

Similarly a failure to crank (only) could be a starter or solenoid failure and not wiring related. It would still bump start with a failed stater or solenoid.

Bottom line: all symptoms matter to avoid needlessly replacing parts and wasting time.

[emerygt350]

I just know many people have issues starting their cars hot on a good day. It wouldn't surprise me if it doesn't kick off on a push start. If it is grounds it doesn't really matter if you fix the push or the starter first both will get you there.