Help wanted for rear fender repair, - Getting closer. Need welding advice on reattaching Options

[930cabman]

Having just replaced both of my rear quarters a few weeks ago, I just went out and remeasured. I'm within 1/32". (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) I think I'm good. Now that I think of it, I think I verified this before started to weld.

I will often measure this with a smallish stick cut slightly less than the dimension and use it to compare. A stick will pickup a small amount, where a tape measure often bends or is next to impossible to get into an inside corner.

[bkrantz]

I used this tool a lot to get the right spacing and curves. Compare the good side to what you are working on.
https://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-19062-Plast...C169&sr=8-9

[didenpx]

Sean,

How does the quarter to rear door jamb area look? If you dont need to address issues there then patching just the rear half of the quarter might be the best option. Also, is there any evidence of the crumple zone in the rear shock tower giving way? If so then it will be important to figure out how much the inner quarter might be distorted. Finally, if you havent leveled the body and used a cheap laser level to check for vertical deltas across the rear end, recommend you do that.

Don’t get discouraged. This is DIY-able!

Paul

[seanpaulmc]

Sean,

How does the quarter to rear door jamb area look? If you dont need to address issues there then patching just the rear half of the quarter might be the best option. Also, is there any evidence of the crumple zone in the rear shock tower giving way? If so then it will be important to figure out how much the inner quarter might be distorted. Finally, if you havent leveled the body and used a cheap laser level to check for vertical deltas across the rear end, recommend you do that.

Don’t get discouraged. This is DIY-able!

Paul

Those are some insightful questions.

Door gaps were pretty good at the start of all this metal work. But since welding in the stiffening kit (Maddog’s) the driver side door gap has gotten a little tight. May need some remediation in the future.

I’ll have to take a closer look at the crumple zone but nothing has ever jumped out at me when doing these repairs. I will check again. Same for measuring elevations side to side. I knew the trunk floor needed to be replaced but I didn’t realize the fender was as bad as it is.

Appreciate the advice!

Thanks,
Sean

[peteyd]

We have a used quarter panel if you head down that road.

Pete

[TRP]

Moses' Sandals!!? I wouldn't even know where to start with something like that. I wish you patience and success. I sweat just thinking about welding sway bar brackets!

[friethmiller]

Sean, reread all the posts here. I'd strip the entire quarter panel using a paint-stripper disk to see what 'other' damage exists. This will help you make a better decision. If it's just the back 1/3 then try to repair what you have otherwise replace it with another "better" fender. Remember, removing/installing the rear quarter panel takes more time than repairing what we can see here.

[didenpx]

We have a used quarter panel if you head down that road.

Pete

Pete, will you guys be offering new fenders at some point in the future?

Paul

[peteyd]

We have a used quarter panel if you head down that road.

Pete

Pete, will you guys be offering new fenders at some point in the future?

Paul

We don't have plans currently to reproduce front or rear fenders. I thought that Dansk was talking about making rear quarters, but I don't know their progress.

With the front fenders on the market, and the sales being slow, it is hard to justify the rears.

Pete

[friethmiller]

Sean,

On my first 914, I had a lot to do on my driver side rear quarter. I certainly didn't have that giant rusted out patch but the sail panel was completely replaced with an RD repair piece and I had to repair all the fiddle bits around the tail light -just like yours. Go here:
https://fredriethmiller.smugmug.com/1974-Po...Jul-Sep-2019/27.

Passenger side: https://fredriethmiller.smugmug.com/1974-Po...Oct-Dec-2019/29

Assembly: https://fredriethmiller.smugmug.com/1974-Po...Oct-Dec-2019/30

Hope this helps.

[Montreal914]

Sean, I was having the same question a while back with a similar situation.

This is where it starts:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2967155

I decided to replace the whole quarter. It was a fair amount of work but gave me tons of access for other long repair work. I couldn’t believe I would make a nice enough long weld without distorting the whole fender, but that is me.

I have major repair awaiting on the passenger side hell hole but on that side the fender is straight and wouldn’t need to be removed/repaired/replaced. I am mentally debating how to tackle that side and I am considering removing the fender for best access. I am very scared of partially cutting it and warping it went stitching it back. I have no hammer/dolly experience.

[didenpx]

We have a used quarter panel if you head down that road.

Pete

Pete, will you guys be offering new fenders at some point in the future?

Paul

We don't have plans currently to reproduce front or rear fenders. I thought that Dansk was talking about making rear quarters, but I don't know their progress.

With the front fenders on the market, and the sales being slow, it is hard to justify the rears.

Pete

Thanks Pete; understand but disappointed the dollars and cents of it don’t work. All of these cars seem to have lived hard lives and the lack of quarter panel replacements at a price point commensurate with restored vehicle market value makes repairs challenging.

That said, I really value and appreciate what you guys do. I’ve bought quite a few patch panels from you and the fit, finish, and quality is spectacular!

[seanpaulmc]

Sean,

On my first 914, I had a lot to do on my driver side rear quarter. I certainly didn't have that giant rusted out patch but the sail panel was completely replaced with an RD repair piece and I had to repair all the fiddle bits around the tail light -just like yours. Go here:
https://fredriethmiller.smugmug.com/1974-Po...Jul-Sep-2019/27.

Passenger side: https://fredriethmiller.smugmug.com/1974-Po...Oct-Dec-2019/29

Assembly: https://fredriethmiller.smugmug.com/1974-Po...Oct-Dec-2019/30

Hope this helps.

Yes, very helpful!
Great photo documentation and some damn nice work, Fred.
I appreciate you sharing those links.

[seanpaulmc]

Sean, I was having the same question a while back with a similar situation.

This is where it starts:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=2967155

I decided to replace the whole quarter. It was a fair amount of work but gave me tons of access for other long repair work. I couldn’t believe I would make a nice enough long weld without distorting the whole fender, but that is me.

I have major repair awaiting on the passenger side hell hole but on that side the fender is straight and wouldn’t need to be removed/repaired/replaced. I am mentally debating how to tackle that side and I am considering removing the fender for best access. I am very scared of partially cutting it and warping it went stitching it back. I have no hammer/dolly experience.

I know I went there to look at the fender repair but what do I need to do to get you to make another set of oil lines. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Nice work! Your thread has some great ideas. I will be certain to be rereading it as I continue this build.
Thanks

[seanpaulmc]

It’s been a bit. Happy holidays folks.

This is where I’m at.



The drivers side rear quarter had a replacement fender very poorly lap welded on in a zigzag pattern sometime in its history.
Did I say poorly? Check out the welds. I’m a novice welder at best but I try to clean up my welds where I think it’s important. Here not so much. It was bondo’d right over.

The current thinking…
(Trying to write this down before I change my mind AGAIN.)



Rear tape line is reference for measurements. It is same on both fenders.
Forward tape line is the expected cut line on each fender allowing for about an inch of overlap for fitting and trimming to butt weld.
I’ve marked a straight cut up the fender unlike what was done before.
Is this an okay idea?
I have not done this before but I can see it was done differently in the past.

My current thinking is to keep the whole corner of the replacement together and have vertical welds in the fender and the tail panel rather than separate the replacement into its piece parts as I started to do. Note the replacement piece came cut up and I’ve started splicing it back together. To do what I’m thinking I’ll have to remove all the inner structure from the replacement leaving only the fender and the tail panel.




The replacement piece does need work.

Let me know your thoughts on this.

Thank you,

Sean

[Montreal914]

Will enjoy reading/learning what the pros will say. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[seanpaulmc]

Thought I took more photos but it’s only the one for now.

[seanpaulmc]

Working on repairs to the repair quarter panel while I have better access to it off the car.

Here I made a wood hammer form to try and form up the curve in the taillight.



It will need to be trimmed. I made it oversized to have material to work with.



And the fit isn’t too bad.



The idea I’m working with here is to do this in two parts - 1. The curved corner lip inside the taillight, and 2. The body panel corner from some flat sheet. That will give me a weld seam on the outer edge of the taillight opening which will need to be rounded over. That’s the plan anyway.

Can you tell I’m putting off trying to mount the fender? If anyone has any feedback for what I’m suggesting on where to cut both fenders , I’d love to hear it.

Thanks and Happy New Year’s everybody!

[DennisV]

I used this tool a lot to get the right spacing and curves. Compare the good side to what you are working on.
https://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-19062-Plast...C169&sr=8-9

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)
Helpful tool for contours.

Some more YouTube welding and metal work resources:
Wray Schelin and Ron Covell are masters of old school metal finishing. They prefer TIG, but also have some MIG content. Ron has some professional grade courses you can buy and download from his website.

Guzzi Fabrication seems to do quality work and offers a lot of tips.

Tom Perazzo is a great guy. He does a lot of 911 and 356 mechanical, but also has some welding, finishing, and body prep videos.

[friethmiller]

Let me know your thoughts on this.

Thank you,

Sean

Yep, I'd fix the inner trunk corner first and then the lower cross area below the tail light next. My aim would be to have good metal in place to then apply the fender at the factory seem at the back [behind the bumper]. This keeps you focused on doing all the small repairs first before welding on the fender. Just my two cents.

Here's a few photos from my restoration of my red '74 (not the LE (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) )