D-Jet Conversion not going as planned., Car starts but will not run. Options

[slapshot]

Here's a pic of the plugs after an hour driver this morning.

I'm going to start fiddling with the TPS again. I'd like to have that working so I'd get better throttle response, especially of the line. It runs fine without but its noticeably more responsive with it plugged in.

My air/fuel meter gets here Saturday. I'll dial in the ECU idle knob with it.

I'll look for Emery's post on tuning the MPS.

[Superhawk996]

There you go!!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[930cabman]

where will your A/F gauge be plugged in? so far as I know the tailpipe is not the best location to obtain this information.

great sleuthing

[slapshot]

where will your A/F gauge be plugged in? so far as I know the tailpipe is not the best location to obtain this information.

great sleuthing

I am planning on the tail pipe. Any recommendations? I was told to shoot for 14 or 15 at idle.

[emerygt350]

I have mine in the outer pipe on the muffler passenger side, off the top of my head I think that is cylinder 4. On a stock muffler there is no good place. I had mine in the 3/4 collector on my ansa like muffler.

Idle is not a great place for the AFR to give good readings. I find somewhere near 12.5 to 13 is where mine ends up. This is due to the compromise I end up making with advance, idle screw, and the ECU knob. You should be able to do better since you have the Bluetooth 123.

As far as the TPS goes... Plug her back in now that that cylinder is getting fuel. Hopefully that was your miss. If it is still there, you really only have a couple of options. Try another board or hope it's just an adjustment thing. I played with mine for weeks never making any progress until I just put the original back in and everything worked great.

I pay much more attention to under load and cruise readings with the AFR. Idle is more for smell after you get out of stinking rich.

I would also like to mention you were running lean on the cylinder most prone to heat and valve seat drops. It's a good thing you found this now.

Oh, and those plugs look pretty good. Although the load test is great it can be hard to do depending on where you live, the AFR should work fine for that. I do both, or did. I still check my plugs every once in a while but I find the AFR tells me the same info on my engine.

[emerygt350]

Oh, and without the TPS your ECU may not know if it is in idle position or not. Supposedly the ECU knob only affects mixture when it is in the idle state as determined by the TPS. I don't know if having it disconnected means the ECU thinks it is in idle or not. I do know if it is so far out of adjustment the car doesn't know you are in idle the knob doesn't do anything.at least it isn't supposed to do anything. I have my suspicions it may affect things off idle but I don't have any good evidence of that yet.

[slapshot]

I have mine in the outer pipe on the muffler passenger side, off the top of my head I think that is cylinder 4. On a stock muffler there is no good place. I had mine in the 3/4 collector on my ansa like muffler.

Do you have a picture of where you have yours?

Idle is not a great place for the AFR to give good readings. I find somewhere near 12.5 to 13 is where mine ends up. This is due to the compromise I end up making with advance, idle screw, and the ECU knob. You should be able to do better since you have the Bluetooth 123.

Shouldn't I test at idle to tune the ECU knob?

As far as the TPS goes... Plug her back in now that that cylinder is getting fuel. Hopefully that was your miss. If it is still there, you really only have a couple of options. Try another board or hope it's just an adjustment thing. I played with mine for weeks never making any progress until I just put the original back in and everything worked great.

Here a video of my adjustment.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mjn8U-TGLkU


I am following these instructions. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...alibrate_20.jpg

[emerygt350]

Yep, those are good instructions. It's just that sweep switch is 50 years old and I wonder how well they work after that many years and miles. It's really the only moving bit but like I said, my brand new board was bad and that was causing my miss at cruise.

I will see if I can find a picture of my O2 sensor. It's visible from my passenger wheel well.

[rjames]

As others have said, don’t worry too much about AFR readings at idle. Save that for last as idle AFR can be dialed in with the ECU knob after you set AFR for part load and WOT. The ECU knob only changes idle mixture.
Weld the O2 bung right after the collector if possible and up on top or towards the top of the pipe so it doesn’t collect moisture.
What exhaust are you running?

[slapshot]

I have the stock exhaust without the catalytic converter.

[emerygt350]

Wow, that is nothing like what I am used to. Just pop it into that long straight before the muffler, but as rjames said, up a little so it doesn't collect moisture. I would do 3-4 inches from the flange so you can use the mounts to support the wire. I will try to post a pic.

[JeffBowlsby]

That looks like a BURSCH exhaust, with the 49-state CAT delete pipe, not the factory exhaust.

Here it the factory exhaust, with a CAT installed.

[slapshot]

Yeah, mine's a none CA car. CAT didn't come on it. I think they only put the CATs on cars sold in CA in 1975.