2500 RPM stumble partial throttle 2.0 -4 Options

[emerygt350]

Yeah, a hole there will just be a vacuum leak at idle. But makes a new dizzy more of a thing I guess. Sounds like yours is due for a complete overhaul.

[SVG223]

Yeah, a hole there will just be a vacuum leak at idle. But makes a new dizzy more of a thing I guess. Sounds like yours is due for a complete overhaul.

Sadly, my thoughts exactly. Looking at the switched and the Bluetooth 123ignition. I hate relying on phone OSs for longevity, but I would like the extra flexibility of adjustment on the Bluetooth version. $600 is more than I paid for a 1.7 parts car in the 80s (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) . What is the max advance for djet on the switched version? Is a vacuum retard required for accurate idle speed on a djet?

[emerygt350]

No, I have the non Bluetooth version and it has been fine for me. You can choose the retard option with the pot if you like however, I have found that it didn't work well due to the apparent binary nature of the switch in the dizzy.

I run a couple degrees advanced from stock. The Bluetooth version allows for much more tweaking but it does require an app interface.

I found mine for about 400. It has also been flawless since install several years ago.

[SVG223]

I cleaned the distributor; the mechanical advance plates are moving freely. I opened the points a little to .011-.022 wear variance. I capped off the vacuum port on the throttle body that was feeding the vacuum retard canister. This has improved the stumble by quite a bit and moved it down the rpm band to about 2200 rpm but it's far less noticeable. I'm still running 34psi fuel pressure and the engine seems to like it, I'm not sure if I'm harming the injectors. If I want to retain this richness I should increase the resistance on the CHT sensor and back the fuel pressure to 28. I may run this worn distributor for a while since it is running better until there is a sale on the 123ignition.

[emerygt350]

I would check your plugs and watch your head temperature. Running rich has its own temperature problems. If I were you I would dip back down to 30 and see if you detect a difference. Do it while the car is idling to see how it responds. Running rich takes a lot out of an engine due to temps and early oil failure. It's also stinky.

You might want to try a WTB no Bluetooth and see if someone wants to cheapen a move to Bluetooth.

[emerygt350]

Oh, and did you get a dwell meter? Incorrect dwell can result in a real poor spark.

I have had the same ancient meter since I was 16 building my opel. I learned its importance by forgetting I had to 1/2 the reading of the v8 degree line. After college I drove my opel gt across the country like that back in the 1990s. Fouling spark plugs like you wouldn't believe. What a power adder when I finally figured out what was wrong!

[SVG223]

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[SVG223]

No dwell meter. I don't think this worn distributor warrants one, especially with the plan of getting rid of points. The car doesn't act like it is too rich going by idle mixture scew in the ECM. Even with 34psi it still idles best screwed all or most of the way clockwise. I may need a new CHT sensor, or have leaks in fuel injector seals or something. I still have some of the smog pump plumbing and its capped off but have plans on removing it down to the stems coming out of the heads and capping there. This engine does idle smooth and around 1000rpm with about a half a turn of the idle air bypass screw. It did hot start quicker with the retard hooked up when it was working but holding down the pedal about 1/4 works well with the retard unhooked.

[emerygt350]

A poor spark can result in a miss. And don't forget, air leaks mean nothing on djet. All they will do is raise the idle, no effect on mixture.

[emerygt350]

I wouldn't ignore the dwell. Could be a real low-cost easy win. Maybe not, but worth doing.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...72087&st=20

Maybe you could find one to borrow. Local mom and pop car repair?

[emerygt350]

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[SVG223]

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I ordered a Hot-Spark electronic ignition conversion kit to eliminate points from the equation. If I listen to the radio with the engine off, it is toast. So, it's probably not a permanent solution. Thanks for the link it was very informative. I would probably stay with points if my distributor bushings weren't worn.

[ctc911ctc]

My 914 mentor, Richard Towle would say that for the Djet

1. Compression
2. Vacuum
3. Fuel - check all injectors
4. Spark - check all plugs
5. Dwell - more important than timing


These need to be solid, everything else is, to some degree, tuning.

A great deal of attention is always paid to those things we do not understand. ECU, Pressure Sensor, etc. Ignore these and focus on the basics, once you are certain that the basics are in place, then move to the more detailed systems. I ignored the dwell, Richard called me a few times and told me GET THE DWELL RIGHT and I listened. Thank you Richard! RIP......once I got one of the basics solid, lots of little stuff disappeared. Hot Start, idle bizareness, rich/lean results, etc.

The note below is my experience late last year, I did everything to the car with the exception of dwell, I could not get my dwell angle set with my Distributor (which I rebuilt) so I purchased another, Dwell angle set to 45 first time and the cars performance increased 2X. My old distributor for reasons yet uncovered, could not set a solid dwell angle.

I wouldn't ignore the dwell. Could be a real low-cost easy win. Maybe not, but worth doing.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...72087&st=20

Maybe you could find one to borrow. Local mom and pop car repair?

[ctc911ctc]

No dwell meter. I don't think this worn distributor warrants one, especially with the plan of getting rid of points. The car doesn't act like it is too rich going by idle mixture scew in the ECM. Even with 34psi it still idles best screwed all or most of the way clockwise.


VACUUM LEAK - idle screw all the way in = vacuum leak recommend smoke test.


I may need a new CHT sensor, or have leaks in fuel injector seals or something. I still have some of the smog pump plumbing and its capped off but have plans on removing it down to the stems coming out of the heads and capping there. This engine does idle smooth and around 1000rpm with about a half a turn of the idle air bypass screw. It did hot start quicker with the retard hooked up when it was working but holding down the pedal about 1/4 works well with the retard unhooked.

[brant]

a worn out distributor shaft will make a newer pointless ignition pickup also run crappy. doesn't actually make your problem of worn parts go away... still wobbles the same amount for your electronic pick up.

[brant]

I have a half dozen DJet distributors from different years
I could see which part numbers I have.

if your distributor is worn.
you can replace with the 123 mentioned above.
you can also rebuild... or buy a better condition used distributor to address that problem... but the problem isn't going away on its own and still impacts running condition.

[SVG223]

It looks like I have about .005" of lateral play on the distributor shaft going by the points gap variance of .01". I'm not sure if the electromagnetic pickup will be as sensitive to this as the points, being that the points are a purely lateral device. I will find out in a week or so when the Hot-Spark comes in. If that doesn't do it I will look for a new distributor or the 123ignition. The HotSpark won't last long I'll burn it up for sure but it will be a good test. I appreciate all of this help from you guys who are far more experienced than I am.