1976 2.0L D-jet, distributor vacuum Options

[Ron914]

@Superhawk996 , @emerygt350
Looks like I just found a CFR tuning kit with the Be-Cu diaphragm and if I want to pay up a NOS factory MPS unit , The 914 world member will get back to me later to discuss it so I am again encouraged I can get my car to the WCR in June .I still need to figure out the best AFR for me so that I can tune the MPS after rebuilding it .
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
By the way I also talked to Chris and he still is working on a source for new diaphragms and hopes to have something later this year .

[Superhawk996]

@Superhawk996 , @emerygt350
Looks like I just found a CFR tuning kit with the Be-Cu diaphragm and if I want to pay up a NOS factory MPS unit , The 914 world member will get back to me later to discuss it so I am again encouraged I can get my car to the WCR in June .I still need to figure out the best AFR for me so that I can tune the MPS after rebuilding it .
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
By the way I also talked to Chris and he still is working on a source for new diaphragms and hopes to have something later this year .

Good news indeed.

I truly hope Chris finds a solution - that diaphragm was a godsend for many! The whole kit he put together to rebuild and the parts to make it tunable are worthy of much praise!

[JeffBowlsby]

@Superhawk996 , @emerygt350
Looks like I just found a CFR tuning kit with the Be-Cu diaphragm and if I want to pay up a NOS factory MPS unit , The 914 world member will get back to me later to discuss it so I am again encouraged I can get my car to the WCR in June .I still need to figure out the best AFR for me so that I can tune the MPS after rebuilding it .
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
By the way I also talked to Chris and he still is working on a source for new diaphragms and hopes to have something later this year .

The great thing about a stock car in otherwise excellent condition such as yours is that parts replacement is plug N play. No need to be rebuilding MPSs, buying specialized tools, learning specialized skills to keep the car on the road. If it were me, just get the new MPS and forgeddabout the rebuild kits, tools, AFR, welding bungs into the exhaust to say nothing of the MPS tuning process itself.

Unless you just want the brain exercise for the joy of the experience, which is rewarding in itself.

[Ron914]

@Superhawk996 , @emerygt350
Looks like I just found a CFR tuning kit with the Be-Cu diaphragm and if I want to pay up a NOS factory MPS unit , The 914 world member will get back to me later to discuss it so I am again encouraged I can get my car to the WCR in June .I still need to figure out the best AFR for me so that I can tune the MPS after rebuilding it .
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
By the way I also talked to Chris and he still is working on a source for new diaphragms and hopes to have something later this year .

The great thing about a stock car in otherwise excellent condition such as yours is that parts replacement is plug N play. No need to be rebuilding MPSs, buying specialized tools, learning specialized skills to keep the car on the road. If it were me, just get the new MPS and forgeddabout the rebuild kits, tools, AFR, welding bungs into the exhaust to say nothing of the MPS tuning process itself.

Unless you just want the brain exercise for the joy of the experience, which is rewarding in itself.

Good morning Jeff , @JeffBowlsby
So if I read you correct my better choice would be to purchase the NOS MPS vs rebuilding and tuning mine . I do have a 2056 motor now ,no longer stock .Would you still suggest the NOS MPS ?

[TJB/914]

@Superhawk996 , @emerygt350
Looks like I just found a CFR tuning kit with the Be-Cu diaphragm and if I want to pay up a NOS factory MPS unit , The 914 world member will get back to me later to discuss it so I am again encouraged I can get my car to the WCR in June .I still need to figure out the best AFR for me so that I can tune the MPS after rebuilding it .
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
By the way I also talked to Chris and he still is working on a source for new diaphragms and hopes to have something later this year .

Ron,
Cheap or Expensive?
Tom

[JeffBowlsby]

Sincere apologies Ron, did not realize your engine was a 2056. To do it right you will need to go through all that custom tuning work. The 2056 is at the limits of the 043 MPS capability.

[Ron914]

@Superhawk996 , @emerygt350
Looks like I just found a CFR tuning kit with the Be-Cu diaphragm and if I want to pay up a NOS factory MPS unit , The 914 world member will get back to me later to discuss it so I am again encouraged I can get my car to the WCR in June .I still need to figure out the best AFR for me so that I can tune the MPS after rebuilding it .
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)
By the way I also talked to Chris and he still is working on a source for new diaphragms and hopes to have something later this year .

Ron,
Cheap or Expensive?
Tom

Hi Tom ,
I will go cheap as I will still need to purchase tuning equipment to tune the rebuilt MPS due to having a 2056 motor now . Send me the details on the CFR kit , talked to Chris and he said he sold the complete kit for about $155.00 send me the details and price and I will get a check in the mail to you. I was just going to opt for the MPS but since I need to tune it for my motor the kit is the better option and cheaper too.
Thanks again
Ron914

[Ron914]

What else do you have in that box of junk(just kidding ) Tom I might be interested .

[Ron914]

@emerygt350 , @Superhawk996
All the fooling around I did yesterday yielding some promising results today .
I just went out to see if my car would start (normally I have to add retard to the dizzy) and two spins of the starter and it fires right up but it falls flat on its face and dies (happened 3X) starving for fuel so on the fourth try it started and the AAR opened ,idling at 13-1400 (seems normal) .
I still intend to rebuild the MPS and once I decide which one purchase an AFR and tune the MPS after a rebuild , also going to just send my TB to Mark and have it rebuilt .
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[emerygt350]

I suggest an aem O2 sensor and gauge, I have tried others and I think they are a little more accepting of our air-cooled not the best afr controlled engines. The more expensive alternatives are a little too picky and seem to shut down if it's too rich or lean. You will want to have access while driving so you either have to snake the cable in the tunnel or you can do a removable version where you run the wire through the window or even tape it or suction mount it on the engine lid and look at it through the rear view mirror (I did that for a little while).

To really make your life easier when it comes tuning time, you want a vacuum gauge as well. They are super cheap and I run mine off a t on the line to the decel.

Tuning it is actually pretty easy but it takes time and patience to see how it responds to varying levels of vacuum and load, and then adjusting the correct part of the mps. We can all help when it comes to that.

Having a cht, afr, and vacuum on the console is really great and that cht is essential to keep your heads happy. Dakota digital is really the go-to for the cht. If you have to run a wire up the tunnel, you might as well run two and a vacuum line. My PO actually ran a wire through it by drilling a hole so I just piggybacked on that. I wouldn't suggest doing that but there are other ways to get into the tunnel from the engine compartment.

[emerygt350]

In this video my I am cruising down the highway at 70. This is when I was really deep into tuning the MPS for the 2056. Watch the vacuum level (left, second row from bottom) and the afr (right, bottom). What you want is the afr to drop as the vacuum drops. I was a long way from that here.

https://youtube.com/shorts/rr1RwLEg0x4?si=qx7PPoeZugbApku9

[Ron914]

I suggest an aem O2 sensor and gauge, I have tried others and I think they are a little more accepting of our air-cooled not the best afr controlled engines. The more expensive alternatives are a little too picky and seem to shut down if it's too rich or lean. You will want to have access while driving so you either have to snake the cable in the tunnel or you can do a removable version where you run the wire through the window or even tape it or suction mount it on the engine lid and look at it through the rear view mirror (I did that for a little while).

To really make your life easier when it comes tuning time, you want a vacuum gauge as well. They are super cheap and I run mine off a t on the line to the decel.

Tuning it is actually pretty easy but it takes time and patience to see how it responds to varying levels of vacuum and load, and then adjusting the correct part of the mps. We can all help when it comes to that.

Having a cht, afr, and vacuum on the console is really great and that cht is essential to keep your heads happy. Dakota digital is really the go-to for the cht. If you have to run a wire up the tunnel, you might as well run two and a vacuum line. My PO actually ran a wire through it by drilling a hole so I just piggybacked on that. I wouldn't suggest doing that but there are other ways to get into the tunnel from the engine compartment.

I actually have a hole in my firewall from the PO who needed a large #10 wire for the stereo amplifier that I removed but since I left the wire in I now have a pull lead . I will check .I will check out the AEM 02 sensor and gauge , there was a member who recently posted a 3D printed two gauge adapter that replaces the ash tray that I don't use anyway and my clock like most of us is only correct two times a day .I will also look at the Dakota digital gauge and sensor for the CHT ,I would imagine any old vacuum gauge would do .
I just drove the car and it runs ok but stumbles a bit and then smooths out. I checked the dizzy plates by sucking and watching them and sprayed a little silicone even though they seem to be moving adequately . Oil temp did not spike like before ,I believe the flaps moved on me so I will need to connect the return spring properly .

[Ron914]

@emerygt350 , @Superhawk996
Just sent my TB to Mark Kinnaman for rebuild , should have it back by end of next week .Sent check to Tom and I should have the CFR MPS diaphragm kit with tools to rebuild mine . I might be reaching out for assistance one I start the rebuild so I avoid any mistakes .
You guys have a great weekend .
Ron

[Ron914]

@emerygt350
I found these online ,would they be what you were suggesting for me . Just want to make sure before I order.

and this CHT

and the sensor

I haven't found a vacuum gauge yet but I believe I saw a VDO 52mm for about $60

[Ron914]

In this video my I am cruising down the highway at 70. This is when I was really deep into tuning the MPS for the 2056. Watch the vacuum level (left, second row from bottom) and the afr (right, bottom). What you want is the afr to drop as the vacuum drops. I was a long way from that here.

https://youtube.com/shorts/rr1RwLEg0x4?si=qx7PPoeZugbApku9

Is 350degrees normal for CHT temp ?

[Ron914]

I can actually buy this set up on Amazon with free shipping cheaper .

[Ron914]

I forgot this one , and these choices look like my best options plus shipping is about a week or less for all 3.

[emerygt350]

Yes, those look good. Make sure the cables are long enough.

And as far as temp goes, that is where mine sits at 70 in fifth gear on a flat with a warm engine. Climbing hills it will go up to 375 and higher if I leave it in 5th. My compression is a point higher than stock though. Hot in town it is at 280-300. Aggressive driving in the mountains it stays between 280 and 380. On the track it is about the same. On the back straight at Watkins Glen it can get to 400 if I have done a couple laps. But that's 100mph in 4th gear. It cools off very fast once you let off.

I am still tweaking my mps and my timing.

[Ron914]

Yes, those look good. Make sure the cables are long enough.

And as far as temp goes, that is where mine sits at 70 in fifth gear on a flat with a warm engine. Climbing hills it will go up to 375 and higher if I leave it in 5th. My compression is a point higher than stock though. Hot in town it is at 280-300. Aggressive driving in the mountains it stays between 280 and 380. On the track it is about the same. On the back straight at Watkins Glen it can get to 400 if I have done a couple laps. But that's 100mph in 4th gear. It cools off very fast once you let off.

I am still tweaking my mps and my timing.

The CHT sensor is 18' long that should be more than enough .

[emerygt350]

If there is a 12 you may want that instead.