1976 2.0L D-jet, distributor vacuum Options

[Ron914]

If there is a 12 you may want that instead.

@emerygt350
They only show a 6' 10' 14' &18' so I was going to get the 14 to be sure I had enough .I have not ordered this yet I only ordered the AEM AFR and the vacuum gauge last night .
Is the 14' going to be too long ?

New question for you Emery ,I want to change my spark plugs . I have two different ones to choose from 1) NGK BPR6ES & 2)Bosch WR7CC
Which would you choose or what do you use in your 2056?

[emerygt350]

I bought the 18 and it was way too much. I just looked back at the invoice.

I stick with the ngk. I like simple copper plugs and they fit the bill. I have not tried the Bosch so I don't have an opinion on them.

[Ron914]

I bought the 18 and it was way too much. I just looked back at the invoice.

I stick with the ngk. I like simple copper plugs and they fit the bill. I have not tried the Bosch so I don't have an opinion on them.

Thanks Emery it was either the 18 or 14 I thought the 10 might leave me short . I'll use the NGK's

[Ron914]

@emerygt350
Update: Where I am as of today . I know and preparing to rebuild my MPS (slowly leaking down ) . Disconnected the retard hose from the distributor and plugged.
I connected and ran hose for future install of a VDO vacuum gauge in car .Also ran cable for CHT gauge and the AFR gauge ( awaiting on gauge pod to install the Vacuum and CHT gauge) and a bung in my muffler to complete.
With MPS hooked up I watched the vacuum gauge and as I advanced the distributor the highest value I saw on my Plenum was apx. 21inHg ,retarded to apx. 18-19 inHg ( motor is hunting ) .
Idle now around 1000 and oil temperature is ok.

[rjames]

I have lost track of some of this thread, and I know you've still got to rectify the MPS issue, but if you're idling at 1000 rpm with the retard from the TB plugged/disconnected, your idle will likely be too low when you reconnect it. This assumes you're running the stock distributor and not the 123 unit.
No point in messing with it now though until you the get MPS sorted though.

[Ron914]

I have lost track of some of this thread, and I know you've still got to rectify the MPS issue, but if you're idling at 1000 rpm with the retard from the TB plugged/disconnected, your idle will likely be too low when you reconnect it. This assumes you're running the stock distributor and not the 123 unit.
No point in messing with it now though until you the get MPS sorted though.

I am running the stock distributor and have the idle adjustment turned in most of the way so it's possible to open to increase the idle once I get the MPS rebuilt . I hope to get the MPS completed this week and the bung installed in my muffler so I can finish install of the AFR.so I can tune it , at least be able to pass the California smog so I can drive the car to WCR .

[emerygt350]

That looks like some good progress. I couldn't tell from the post but you mentioned hunting. Is it still hunting or did that go away? If it is I would use the ECU pot and richen the idle mix.

I would leave it where you have it and see what happens when you plug in the retard. If you have to bring the idle up with the idle screw I would call that a win. You could play with that even before the mps rebuild.

[Ron914]

That looks like some good progress. I couldn't tell from the post but you mentioned hunting. Is it still hunting or did that go away? If it is I would use the ECU pot and richen the idle mix.

I would leave it where you have it and see what happens when you plug in the retard. If you have to bring the idle up with the idle screw I would call that a win. You could play with that even before the mps rebuild.

It is still hunting a couple of hundred RPM , let's see CW riches idle mix I believe. I wonder if it would be safe to try the smog test if I still have good results with reconnecting the retard and opening the idle screw? I am ready to crack the MPS open so maybe it would be best to just wait .

[emerygt350]

The only thing you will be playing with are the idle adjustments so I wouldn't fear it. You will have to adjust those again after the rebuild.

[rjames]

If the MPS won’t hold vacuum or is set way too lean, your idle will likely hunt no matter what else you do.
Fix the MPS first.

[emerygt350]

If the MPS won’t hold vacuum or is set way too lean, your idle will likely hunt no matter what else you do.
Fix the MPS first.

It's a really weak leak, and with a leak you are actually going rich. Hunting is normally a lean condition.

[rjames]

If the MPS won’t hold vacuum or is set way too lean, your idle will likely hunt no matter what else you do.
Fix the MPS first.

It's a really weak leak, and with a leak you are actually going rich. Hunting is normally a lean condition.

You're right regarding a leak leading to a rich condition.
That said, my experience with a MPS that had a cracked diaphragm resulted in a hunting idle and I couldn't fully resolve it by adjusting the mixture via the ECE. The hunting idle is what clued me in that the MPS may be bad in the first place. The OP may get different results though.

[Ron914]

Still working on my D-Jet issues I ran my motor and drove around a few miles today before pulling my MPS for rebuild . I noticed my oil temp getting hot since yesterday .
What changed today , I connected the retard hose back on the distributor .
Below is the temp ,tach at idle and the vacuum at idle .



Due to the high temp I am going to complete the install of my new wiring so I can connect the Dakota digital gauge .AFR gauge install is not completed yet ,still need to have bung welded in my muffler.

[emerygt350]

Very good idea. You have the chart for that temp gauge? I think people post it weekly. I would verify the sender matches your gauge as well if you haven't.

That vacuum looks right with retard running. Did it drop your idle down?

[Ron914]

Very good idea. You have the chart for that temp gauge? I think people post it weekly. I would verify the sender matches your gauge as well if you haven't.

That vacuum looks right with retard running. Did it drop your idle down?

I don't have the chart but I can search for it. Yes, I had to increase my idle because it did drop . I am working on installing my gauges and wiring now .Here's a picture of the gauge pod that replaces my ashtray made by RTz and sold in the classifieds .I noticed the AFR gauge does not come with a wiring diagram and will have some questions about the extra wiring leads on the power plug later (still need to get the bung installed and decide which muffler to install it in as I forgot to purchase an additional bung) .Hers a photo of the ashtray gauge pod ,I really did not want to cut up my centrer console to install gauges ,by removing my clock which doesn't work I have just enough holes . I noticed some toggle switches on your center dash . Are those for powering the gauges ?

[emerygt350]

One is for the supplementary heater on my afr (doesn't help), and the other was because I was to lazy to hook the gauge dimmer to my headlights. The Dakota digital is very very bright, which is great for the sun, but at night it is blinding.

I don't remember having any problems with my aem in the mustang. Did it come with a quick connect or do you have to run individual wires?

Oh, and I didn't wreck my console, I built an all new face for my 7 gauge monstrosity and put the original in storage.

[emerygt350]

You may want the afr up top and the cht down low while you are tuning.

[Ron914]

One is for the supplementary heater on my afr (doesn't help), and the other was because I was to lazy to hook the gauge dimmer to my headlights. The Dakota digital is very very bright, which is great for the sun, but at night it is blinding.

I don't remember having any problems with my aem in the mustang. Did it come with a quick connect or do you have to run individual wires?

Oh, and I didn't wreck my console, I built an all new face for my 7 gauge monstrosity and put the original in storage.

The gauge pod isn't exactly working out .Before this option came up I decided I would just make a new panel like you for the center console ,looks like I will be doing that later . There are 7 wires coming out of the plug for the AEM I understand 3 of them 12V/GND/Dimmer but am not sure what the other four are for . I could try ro email or call them for a wiring diagram/color code.

[emerygt350]

The instructions are online, not sure what model you have but here is an example. Looks like many of those are for serial out and logging type stuff you don't need.

[porschetub]

[quote name='IronHillRestorations' date='Mar 25 2025, 02:12 PM' post='3197814']
You might want to make sure the advance mechanism is working properly, it might be sticking.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) no expert on D-jet but this one has all the clues of this common problem ,chuck a vaccum pump on it ,pump up and see if it is holding at least ,if ok increase the vacuum and see if the top advance plate pops back after releasing vacuum if not you need to clean it ,if the vaccum unit holds you are way ahead as they are NLA, cheers.