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> Nditiz1's 2nd 914-6 conversion 1974 build thread, Wiring 95% complete
mb911
post May 23 2025, 06:14 AM
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Looking good. Hopefully shipping your tank etc Tuesday
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mb911
post May 30 2025, 04:51 PM
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Tank shipped today sorry for the delay. The plater was backed up.
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nditiz1
post May 30 2025, 08:41 PM
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No worries Ben, I have been making slow progress with getting the 911 ready for RR5.

After next weekend it will be full steam ahead again.

I did get the restored PMB calipers from ebay. Installed it used the bearing tool to drive the hub further into the bearing. Now I am getting close on the backside which is correct. Using washers in place of the removed backing plate will put the caliper centered on the rotor.

I also got Ben's engine tin powder coated along with the maddog engine mount.

One thing I dont know is if anyone makes a metal channel to hold the engine bay seal. The passenger hell hole had been fixed by black forest racing, but it looks like they used regular sheet metal.and not a factory piece (RestoDesign). They fixed the seal on that side with screws. While it does the job it is a bit crude.
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racer914
post May 31 2025, 08:50 AM
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I got the metal channel from Restoration Design for my car.
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nditiz1
post May 31 2025, 11:23 AM
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Thanks for the lead Dave, I'll make a purchase.
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nditiz1
post Jun 10 2025, 10:21 PM
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Ok so im back from the Ruchlos Rallye. Got to hang with some world friends like Paul, Travis, Dave, Don, and Dion (pardon if I didn't mention you by name and you were there). The best Rallye and awesome roads in WV. Anyway back to this S-show. I did manage to press the hub in slightly more. I think I was bottoming out against the backside of the hub instead of getting a few more mm through the bearing. Caliper looks positioned well and the Sebro rotor has good clearance. No need to shave as some have stated.

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I got the engine seal flange in the mail and secured that with a few spot welds. I bet this would have been easier with the right tool instead of me mig welding from a slight distance. Should hold the seal better than screws (previously).

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Since I was busting out the welding setup I decided to tackle the engine lid mount. I did both on my last conversion and it's not a bad job, well if you have the metal to weld to. This job was not pretty, but will securely hold the engine lid better than the previous hack job. The right way would have been to cut a small piece to repair the hole, but im not a great welder, this metal is thin, oh and im not even an average welder.

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The tank from Ben came in. I sent him out my cooler to be modded in time before he moves. Hopefully I can cut these holes better than last time. I did mock up the centers with a template based on the tank. Maybe I can tackle some tomorrow. I hate cutting those holes hahaha.
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Root_Werks
post Jun 11 2025, 09:12 AM
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Great time to fix all those things when the engine is out. Conversion is coming right along!

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nditiz1
post Jun 11 2025, 12:37 PM
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And just like that the tank is 90% in. I need to trim a little on the return line hole. My template must have been slightly off. Went a lot smoother this time than my 1st conversion.

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mb911
post Jun 11 2025, 01:48 PM
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Looks great
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Root_Werks
post Jun 11 2025, 02:42 PM
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Looks pretty good to me! My six conversion - PO really liked oversized holes. I didn't fix them.
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OrangeBones
post Jun 11 2025, 09:43 PM
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Great progress! Had a blast at RR5 with you! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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jaredmcginness
post Jun 12 2025, 07:28 AM
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Looks great man! I am pretty busy this summer, but might be able to come up an afternoon and we can repair that front floor pan area.
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Dion
post Jun 13 2025, 05:36 PM
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Wow an intact emissions sticker! Oil tank holes look proper. Nice one. Keep going buddy.
It was great seeing ya at the Ruchlos. 911 looked and sounded mega.
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nditiz1
post Jun 20 2025, 11:40 AM
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@jaredmcginness - I will take you up on that offer.

After a weekend at the lake it was back to work, when I have free time LOL. I envy the retired guys. Wish I had more time to devote to hobbies. Anyway, tank is pretty much fully in. Trimmed a little on the lower oil return.

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Next, I was putting off installing the return fuel line. The TO line was already done, but since it was carbs, who needs a return. CIS needs a return. Went in without too much trouble. Not sure why I was sweating it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) . I had to remove the tank for ease of install as well as setup the return line. I decided to mimic my other conversion as well as others and install the FP right in the frunk, easily accessible. I plan to run a pre filter to the Bosch 044. The CIS has a filter already, but this will help keep the pump clean. Listen, you might be thinking, Nick you're using those worm gear clamps, thats a big no-no. Well, these are worm gears band clamps so no need to worry about the metal cutting into the rubber fuel line. I'll be honest, these clamp down tighter than actual fuel injector clamps. Maybe I have only bought cheap ones, but the torquing force that I want seems to strip the tiny machine screw.

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I also milled (poorly i might add) the turbo valve cover. This is so you can check the valves/remove the cover with the engine in situ. Pretty sure only the driver side needs to be done.

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Root_Werks
post Jun 20 2025, 01:11 PM
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I can't remember what side needed milled down on the valve cover (D or P)? Either way, good progress. Also good to get those SS fuel lines in now.

My six is running CIS. The PO did the initial conversion and he made his own airbox turned 90 degrees. I'm eh about it. Going to source a stock airbox and do the 180 flip. Done that a number of times and it works well. No hacking up of the rear trunk wall.

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porschetub
post Jun 20 2025, 08:54 PM
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QUOTE(nditiz1 @ Jun 12 2025, 06:37 AM) *

And just like that the tank is 90% in. I need to trim a little on the return line hole. My template must have been slightly off. Went a lot smoother this time than my 1st conversion.

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Have you considered sealing of those fitting tank to body ,I couldn't find them so used quality closed cell foam to seal them ,the console seal is available from URO ,mine fitted well .
Keep up the good work you a powering ahead ,cheers.
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nditiz1
post Jun 30 2025, 08:35 PM
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@Root_werks - curious about the 180 flip of the airbox or was it just the piece covering the filter?

Been steadily working on little things:

I finished the wiring harness from the factory harness to the SC harness. Running 10 wires total. Utilizing a keyed hot for the CIS and the heater green/white wire for the oil temp. I'm not running heat so I will hook into the wire going to the lever.

Ran new brake lines for the rear. The ones in place were in decent shape, but i needed to move things closer to the driver side. I used a basic T from a beetle. Not pretty, but functional. New rubber lines as well.

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Decided to bust out the welder, hopefully for the last time. The seal channel on the driver side was rusting away. I had leftover from restoration design. New engine seals are also installed.

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I also welded in the battery tray. My car was already modded to the trunk. I'm not really a fan so im moving it back. I'm going to screw down the top plate.

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Lastly, I worked on the engine. Didn't realize the 6 mount does not clear an AC pulley. Luckily I had a spare from a 2.7 or early SC. I finished checking the valves and cleaning the cam towers for new gaskets.

The next major item will be to address the oil cooler. Do I want to keep it in the rear OR run it to the front.
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mate914
post Jul 1 2025, 05:43 AM
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QUOTE(nditiz1 @ Jun 30 2025, 10:35 PM) *

@Root_werks - curious about the 180 flip of the airbox or was it just the piece covering the filter?

Been steadily working on little things:

I finished the wiring harness from the factory harness to the SC harness. Running 10 wires total. Utilizing a keyed hot for the CIS and the heater green/white wire for the oil temp. I'm not running heat so I will hook into the wire going to the lever.

Ran new brake lines for the rear. The ones in place were in decent shape, but i needed to move things closer to the driver side. I used a basic T from a beetle. Not pretty, but functional. New rubber lines as well.

Attached Image

Decided to bust out the welder, hopefully for the last time. The seal channel on the driver side was rusting away. I had leftover from restoration design. New engine seals are also installed.

Attached Image

I also welded in the battery tray. My car was already modded to the trunk. I'm not really a fan so im moving it back. I'm going to screw down the top plate.

Attached Image

Lastly, I worked on the engine. Didn't realize the 6 mount does not clear an AC pulley. Luckily I had a spare from a 2.7 or early SC. I finished checking the valves and cleaning the cam towers for new gaskets.

The next major item will be to address the oil cooler. Do I want to keep it in the rear OR run it to the front.


Stock 3.0.... Back might work. If you ever upgrade that 930 you will probably want it up front.
Looking good.
Matt
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Root_Werks
post Jul 2 2025, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
@Root_werks - curious about the 180 flip of the airbox or was it just the piece covering the filter?

I think it's actually just the fuel distributor. The airbox stays put, but if you rotate the fuel dist 180, you don't need to cut into the trunk. You do have to move the engine latch over..... I think anyway.

My airbox was built by the PO from scratch moving the aircleaner 90 degrees so it faces the oil tank. I'm so-so about it and almost certain it's restricting airflow.
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nditiz1
post Jul 9 2025, 07:24 AM
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I worked on almost finishing up the wiring. I need to run power to the fuel pump and I need to hook in my "keyed" power wire to the engine bay. This wire will provide the 123 and the CDI power while the key is in the on position. I also installed the multi gauge and 6 tach. Everything is wired for those into the 14 pin harness. I used the stock green/red, the stock green/black extending to the cluster and used the green/white from the heater wire and extended that to the cluster.

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I drained the oil in the trans. Looked pretty clean. I needed to replace the seals on the shift console. Oil was leaking pretty good from there and filling the plastic cover.

Next up is to switch the clutch package to the Kennedy 3.0 conversion and mate the trans to the engine.

Getting pretty close to installing the engine back in. I can then address the oil line configuration and fuel line routing.
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