Early Bumper help Options

[TINKERGINEERING]

Hello!
I am working on backdating my bumpers, and I would post this in a WTB section but I figured on here I could also get some great advice -
Here is the bumper I have currently - this is after about a week of hammering and hammering, trying to smooth it out - I am going to be powder coating it white (like all the rest of the brightwork - its going to be sickk), so it dosent need to have a perfect paint job, but just smooth- here are the pics of what I am working with currently.
Does anybody have a front early bumper that I could buy for a couple hundred dollars?

Should I keep hammering this out and see where it takes me? I am also going to have to do a bit of welding - you can see the crack in the last photo.

Any advice will be helpful!! thxx


The actual backdating process is going well thanks to bigkensteele's thread on the topic!
My video will be posted once I finish on my Youtube! -> Tinkergineering check insta for the process as well if you're curious (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
insta

[TINKERGINEERING]

pic2

[TINKERGINEERING]

pic3 - you kinda get the idea - its ok but definitely a lot of work

[mepstein]

Powder coating probably won’t be ideal since it doesn’t lend itself to bodywork and filler. I would either do the best you can, go heavy with the filler, cover with a two part paint or buy something better and go from there. Unfortunately, I don’t have anything better to offer to you.

[Shivers]

This video may be of interest. I wanted to keep my bumpers that came painted new. So I’m doing the same thing. The metal is thin to begin with, but I got it close and used a file to bring the high spots down. But because the metal is so thin your high spots need to be really low. My front and rear were smashed pretty good. They will look fine after a skim of filler and sand able primer to fill those small variations. I’m no expert, just had to learn to fix mine. Remember this metal is thin, when welded it can warp, when struck it can stretch so when trying to move the metal back it may not fit. I had to get inventive, but mine get covered in paint so some cutting and welding to make things fit was fine. I added the cut out for an oil cooler and had to just do spot welds a little at a time.
@TINKERGINEERING

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=EyoxrBz6D2E&a...pdGhwb3dkZXI%3D

[TINKERGINEERING]

Awesome ok!
I will keep working it - thanks for the tips!

[Chad911sc]

Yeah as said above, won’t be able to powder coat it.
But you can make it look great with a good fiber hair filler. It’s stronger and it looks like you have some pretty good dents and malformations going on there.
Step 1) sand it down with a piece of 80 grit sandpaper on a block. They make very hard foam blocks of different sizes that are cheap on Amazon. Obviously if you have a DA sander that works best, but not needed.
Step 2) After using that block you will see all the shiny high spots and the dark low spots.
Use a body hammer and the chunk of heavy steel that comes with it to gently tap down the high spots. (Also cheap on Amazon)From the backside, gently tap up the low spots, just enough to get the big ones out, but don’t try to get those perfect because your filler will take care of those. Then hit the front of the bumper again with the 80 grit on the block to see if it’s acceptable.
Step 3) Use rust converter of your choice, I use Corroseal, to seal off the surface rust that’s deep in the pores that your sandpaper will not reach. That has to sit for a day or two. Then I sand it back off with 220 grit to get back to the shiny metal, and whatever is left that you can’t reach, is now treated and sealed.
Step 4) Use your filler to fill the remaining low spots and then sand it back down with the 80 grit on a block again. This process of applying the filler, usually has to be repeated several times to get it nice and straight. Use X patterns to sand it down to keep the cut even. Don’t just go up and down…or side to side because it will never get straight. Once you’re happy with it, sand it down completely with 220 grit on that same foam block. On all your edges and corners, you just use the paper with your hand only to conform to the shape of whatever you’re sanding. Now you’re ready for primer!
Step 5) Wipe down entire surface to be painted with metal prep cleaner/degreaser. Use tack cloth to remove dust. Use a good self etching epoxy primer! This will ensure it will not rust again in your lifetime. Put on first coat lightly, don’t try to cover it all in one shot. 15 mins later, put on a nice medium coat and cover it all without getting too close and running it. This will give you good practice for your color coat. If you do put a run it in, no worries, you’re gonna sand it down anyway. Give that a day to set up and dry. Then sand it with 400-600 grit paper. I usually have a hose just barely running over the top of the area I am sanding. This keeps the cut nice and even and keeps your paper from loading up. You want to just follow the shape of the object. You don’t want to push hard into it or use your finger tips with pressure because you will dig grooves that will show up once your clear is on. Just flat hand with light pressure, and I usually fold the paper in half. Go Very Easy on the edges and corners or you will break through the primer. Not a huge concern if it’s a small spot or three. But just don’t sand off big places to bare metal because you are loosing all your metal protection.
Step 6) Color. Wipe down entire surface with metal prep cleaner. Use tack cloth to remove dust.You can now use a single stage color and be done. The best final result of looks and durability will be with a two stage though. Put your base color down and then clear coat it. The color placement is the same as the primer. Light coat focusing on the edges and corners first. Then second and 3rd coat of needed to get your coverage. Once you think you have it all covered, take a led light and really go over it to make sure you have full coverage. Once your clear is on it’s too late.
Step 7) Clear coat. Wipe down entire surface with metal prep cleaner. Use tack cloth to remove dust. Same as before, light coat first. 2nd coat medium and 3rd coat medium again. I usually bury the 3rd coat, but that comes with years of doing it and wouldn’t advise because pretty much a guaranteed run.
15 mins between coats.
This metal finishing process will work every time on anything you desire.
Follow it step by step!!
Skip one tiny step to the finishes detriment and ultimately yours.
When your done you will be satisfied with your hard work! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)

[mepstein]

Wear a good respirator any time you sand or clean up and use a hepa filter on your shop vac. Your older self will appreciate it.