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FL000 |
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#1
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 466 Joined: 31-January 12 From: Lancaster, CA Member No.: 14,076 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
I’ve got a tiny bit of play in my steering, and the u-joint near the front bulkhead has some visible wear. Figure I’ll replace both of them as well as the shaft bearing and coupler. Anything else I should consider? I’m going to preorder the parts so hoping to have what I need on hand. I’ll inspect the rest when I drop the rack.
‘73 |
bdstone914 |
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#2
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bdstone914 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,083 Joined: 8-November 03 From: Riverside CA Member No.: 1,319 ![]() |
I’ve got a tiny bit of play in my steering, and the u-joint near the front bulkhead has some visible wear. Figure I’ll replace both of them as well as the shaft bearing and coupler. Anything else I should consider? I’m going to preorder the parts so hoping to have what I need on hand. I’ll inspect the rest when I drop the rack. ‘73 That will be interesting to see what you find as I have never seen a worn steering U joint. The rubber puck is the part that most often needs to be replaced. Nor have I seen lower steering columb bearing wear. |
Jack Standz |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 536 Joined: 15-November 19 From: Happy Place (& surrounding area) Member No.: 23,644 Region Association: None ![]() ![]() |
Performed a similar restoration a few months ago. Did not have "wear" in the u-joint, but it was exceptionally stiff due to a combination of 50 year-old grease and corrosion. Replaced it with a good used one from the parts stash and all is good.
If you're up to it & since you're dropping the rack, consider "rebuilding" the steering rack to reduce steering slop and improve things. Again, 50 year-old grease, etc. Started with vapor blasting the rack, cleaning old grease out, checking bearing and bushings on the ends (all good - this was a 911 rack that was in fairly good condition, which is pretty much the same as a 914 rack). Then took a piece of flat steel with sandpaper taped to it and some fine oil, to remove the grooves in the puck that slides against and puts pressure on the rack gear toward the pinion gear. Set the proper clearance with shims and put it back together with some good synthetic grease. Finish off with some 930 turbo tie rods, proper boots, spacers, etc. and you should notice the improvement. Best wishes for a successful fix. |
PanelBilly |
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#4
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914 Guru ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 5,915 Joined: 23-July 06 From: Kent, Wa Member No.: 6,488 Region Association: Pacific Northwest ![]() ![]() |
My u joints were stiff. A good cleaning made them work much smoother.
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FL000 |
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#5
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 466 Joined: 31-January 12 From: Lancaster, CA Member No.: 14,076 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
Thanks for the replies. I’m tempted to do it before red rocks next month, but do like the idea of breaking down the rack while I’m at it. Maybe best to save this for a winter project.
The car tends to wander a bit at high-ish speeds and I thought maybe this could help. I did an alignment this weekend and got my corner weights dialed in which helped overall. I’ll double check the measurements to make sure I didn’t miss something. |
FL000 |
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#6
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Member ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 466 Joined: 31-January 12 From: Lancaster, CA Member No.: 14,076 Region Association: Southern California ![]() ![]() |
You were correct about the u-joints @bdstone914 , they were ok. What I thought was a worn joint was actually a loose one. Tightening the bolt nearest the front bulkhead removed most the play. Interesting though, the bolt wasn’t loose but the clamp itself had too much slack and cinching it down more closed it up.
Already had two new joints so installed them anyways, and just need to get her on the road but it feels nice and tight now. Enough where I didn’t bother dropping the rack to inspect/change the coupler. |
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