The Group 5 Project, Let's see where this goes Options

[Cairo94507]

Are you asking about the chassis number? That is different than the VIN. The chassis number would be stamped in the rear trunk floor in the panel that connects to the taillight panel. Should be to the right of the trunk lock on the floor of the trunk. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[tygaboy]

Are you asking about the chassis number? That is different than the VIN. The chassis number would be stamped in the rear trunk floor in the panel that connects to the taillight panel. Should be to the right of the trunk lock on the floor of the trunk. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Sorry Todd - I misread your message. @Cairo94507 Michael is correct. The chassis #is in back there but not in the center. Plus, the chassis # isn't part of the set of numbers that ID the car. Many 914 trunk floors have been replaced/removed and there's nothing "funny" about that # missing. Now, if a car was represented as "original", that'd certainly matter. But this car ain't that! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[davep]

The Karmann body (Chassis) number Was stamped into the rear trunk floor from 1970 through most of 1974, was later located on a metal plate riveted to the right inner front wheelwell. Only for 1970 was the Karmann # stamped in front of the lock; from 1971 model year it was located in front of the right taillight.

[tygaboy]

The Karmann body (Chassis) number Was stamped into the rear trunk floor from 1970 through most of 1974, was later located on a metal plate riveted to the right inner front wheelwell. Only for 1970 was the Karmann # stamped in front of the lock; from 1971 model year it was located in front of the right taillight.

@davep - The things we're learning about ( (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif) ) and because of this car, eh?
Wonders never cease...

[davep]

I was one of the first to figure out the Karmann body # about 1977. I blame it on being a physicist and seeing patterns in numbers. But the more I know, the more I realize how little I know. As I collect more data I get to see more anomalies and so I get to learn a few more little secrets. After 50 years I still learn more things almost daily. And loving it.

[tygaboy]

Two-piece removable engine / trans cover complete.
I think it's a nice match and fits the vibe of this build. And yes, the top still fits.

[slowrodent]

Gosh that's good looking (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) .....and ridiculously practical...A++

[Cairo94507]

I 100% agree with @slowrodent - that looks perfect. That car is transforming from one that was probably not safe at all for the road to one that will be able to drive anywhere safely and stylishly - all thanks to Chris, Greg and the skills they bring to the table.

[East coaster]

Looks clean!

[tygaboy]

@T.Rick6 - the chassis # location in the right rear corner.

[T.Rick6]

@T.Rick6 - the chassis # location in the right rear corner.

TYGABOY That's cool, just learning the differences between a -4 and a -6 and my apologies: I didn't mean anything nefarious was going on.
The reason I asked I just finished watching Ian Karr's -6 PPI and around 14:58 Eric shows the # (vin or karman ) just fwd of the trunk lock assy; I didn't know if this is a -6 thing. I believe a '70 & '71 -6 has the # in this spot and a '72 -6 has it on the drivers side just aft of the wheel well as well as the VIN on the pax headlight housing and -4 on the pax rear trunk panel. I have to replace the aft most rear trunk panel on my -6 but I don't want the #'s looking fishy so I asked.... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

Todd

[tygaboy]

Done in the trunk. Check out how Greg's engine cover turned out! Spoiler Alert: it's awesome - but then, you already know that from the pics above. But watch what he had to do to get the welding done. Pretty neat trick.
I'm still waiting for the frunk floor panel from Restoration Design but once that's here, we're on to the front end sheet metal repairs.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cnquUvv40A

[tygaboy]

On to the chassis repairs! First, let's get it on the lift and start taking a closer look.
(Dang, those are some wide wheels/tires...)

[tygaboy]

And the hits just keep on coming. The driver side front A-arm mount is a touch lower than the passenger side (or is the passenger side too high?). Not a lot, but it was obvious when you looked closely. A quick level check vs. the main front suspension cross bar and yep, it ain't right - not surprising given all the structure that's been removed.
Also not surprising is how easily this non OSHA-approved "adjustment rig" pushed the "low side" up. Still some analysis left to do before we commit to a solution.
But once the frunk floor and nose are back in (along with a pair of 1.5" tube struts from the shock towers to just above the front A-arm mounting location) this chassis will be back to what it needs to be.
And yes, it'll all be covered in an upcoming episode so stay tuned for all the details.

[tygaboy]

Spoiler Alert about the coming episode:
After measuring and correcting the location of the front A-arm mount locations, the support struts are in (about to be final welded) and the front end is stabilzed! And what a difference it makes. If you want to see just how much this chassis flexed before this fix, don't miss the next video.

[tygaboy]

Having only seen it in pics, I'd always thought of this car as the definitive hot rod 914. Boy, can looks be deceiving! Enjoy this episode and you'll see what those body panels have been hiding all these years. Yikes...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zs8Loldou94

[Cairo94507]

Absolutely love the level of work being done on this car to transform it into a beast on the road. The skills Chris and Greg have are amazing. The owner of Big Red hit a Grand Slam when he called Chris. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[Shivers]

Noodle lol. I saw a lot of good progress in the video
towards un-noodlizing wide red. Should be a lot less flaccid

[Ninja]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

The vids show a car with stupid nice lower sheet metal.

And then someone cut MOST of the supporting sheet metal out of the front. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

That front would be dangerous with stock sized tires IMO.


Want to test your suspension mounting points?

Put bigger, wider, heavier tires on the car.

I'd guess that car has rubber at least two to three times as wide as stock.


We haven't seen what the back looks like yet...

In my book, tires that wide require ALL of the chassis strengthening tricks.

All the inner and outer long pieces (the heavy stuff), Chris Foley's "boxed" trailing arms, all the "GT" kit pieces, triangulate all the rear trailing arm mounts, complete seam welding, and ADD multiple versions those nice front bars the Red Barn crafted between the suspension mount points and chassis.

I'm guessing little of this work has been completed

Yes, Chris and Greg at the Red Barn are the proper shop to fix this puppy.

I do feel a bit sorry for them.

Gluttons for punishment! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif)

This is a pretty good cautionary tale.
The Auction did not show just how bad this was.
Buying someone else's project just means you get to go back through EVERYTHING they did.

On this one, the repair cost might exceed the purchase price of the car unless the owner can complete the needed work themselves...

I wonder what a commercial Porsche repair shop would charge for what will be needed.

Imagine the bill from Brumos or PMB.

[Superhawk996]

This is a pretty good cautionary tale.
The Auction did not show just how bad this was.

Gonna’ have to disagree

BaT photos clearly showed how jacked up this car was. The red flags were everywhere including the V8 conversion of the 944 in the background.

As usual for BaT there were lots of comments shilling for how great the car was and driving the price to absurd levels.

Hopefully the buyer knew what he was bidding on.