Shift rod linkage cover, How hard is it to change out Options

[Thunderchief]

My shift rod linkage cover has a crack and is leaking. It looks like I'll have to disconnect the rear linkage to change it out? Is that difficult to do? Also, which lubricant and how much do I use when I do? Thanks as always.

[bdstone914]

My shift rod linkage cover has a crack and is leaking. It looks like I'll have to disconnect the rear linkage to change it out? Is that difficult to do? Also, which lubricant and how much do I use when I do? Thanks as always.

Side shift or tail shift?

[Thunderchief]

Side shift

[914werke]

Not difficult, loosen the band & pull the cover down so it rotates on the shaft
use a 6mm (?) allen to remove the cone screw from the coupler
Similarly pull back the the boot from the front side of the shift rod at the firewall & remove the cone screw then remove rod.
Keep in mind there should not be significant oil inside the cover
If there is your shift console shaft seal is bad & will need to be replaced

[Thunderchief]

Great. There actually is. How hard is that to change out?

[Chad911sc]

Not too difficult. Need to remove the shift arm off of the shaft. I’ve never removed mine, but looks like in the picture it’s a little roll pin that needs pushed out to remove it. Once that is off, just use a little pic to pull that rubber seal off of the shaft and use a socket of appropriate size to drive the new one back in. Replace the shift arm and press the roll pin back in. Then I would change the fluid in the transmission because you don’t know how much has leaked out over the years or what type of fluid is in it already. Never hurts to have fresh fluid in the transmission any way. Many opinions I’m sure of what type to use, but mine shifts like butter now after changing it to the Lucas gear oil. Took about 2.5 quarts and you fill it from the plug shown in picture.

[914werke]

Umm no.
The best way to replace the seal is to pull the console which means draining the oil.
Yes if you've never done its its probably a good time to change it with fresh 80-90 weight dino oil.
Once out you remove the roll pin from the fork end of the shaft.
A trick I learned from Mike- since that end has always been bathed in oil it shouldn't present any issue with its removal vs the ball end which can be corroded & a problem to remove.
Slide out the shaft, keep track of the nylon washers top/bottom then using your handy seal puller pop out the caged bush, clean then drive in the new one & reverse assemble as they say.

[Stratfink]

I had the same issue and replaced the seal and cover earlier this year. I was doing the trans output shaft seals and had already drained the gear oil so it was an ideal time to tackle this. I was new to the 914 about 3 years ago and was able to do this on my own.

The experts here recommended a couple of other things not yet mentioned. 1. Replace the cone screws at each end of the shift rod - they have a nylon patch lock that gets run in with usage. 2. Because you are pulling the console as 914werke mentioned there is another o-ring seal that goes between the console and trans that can be replaced at this time. A little scary pulling the console out of the trans but it went back in and reengaged without issue.

I also bought the self lubricating bronze bushing from 914werke to install where the rod enters the console but found a PO had already replaced the original nylon/plastic one already.

Unfortunately I don’t have many pics but what I have is below.

Cracked cover and new one (I think from PMB)


View of console after the shift rod was removed


Reassembled with new cone screw


Hope this helps - there was good info in other threads and in the Haynes manual too…

Cheers - Joe

[Thunderchief]

Wow! This is very helpful, thank you very much for all of that valuable information.

[FlacaProductions]

Is there any adjustment needed after reinstalling the rod and cone screws or do they go into detents and the previous position?

[Montreal914]

The only adjustment on a side shift linkage is where the tunnel rod joins the shifter knuckle.

All other junctions are with cone screws with no adjustment. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) Based on this, one would assume everything goes back to where it was. That being said, was there anything else replaced in the process such as bushings? If so, foreseeable adjustment at the shifter required.

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

nothing to it, just remove the two set screws after rolling the cover onto the rod and pull out the rear shift bar and then replace the shift shaft seal, plenty on the shelf, and might as well replace the crown bushing and shift cup bushing while you are doing it

My shift rod linkage cover has a crack and is leaking. It looks like I'll have to disconnect the rear linkage to change it out? Is that difficult to do? Also, which lubricant and how much do I use when I do? Thanks as always.