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> Low oil pressure when warm, Crushed. Finally get to drive the car and the idiot light comes on
FlacaProductions
post Oct 16 2025, 05:26 PM
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Oooh - did you bump something during the messing around? 10psi per 1000rpm is the general rule of thumb so you’re in the range…
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trojanhorsepower
post Oct 16 2025, 05:41 PM
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Maybe, but nothing obvious I've seen yet.
The switch that was there is a Bosch .45bar switch.
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trojanhorsepower
post Oct 17 2025, 05:25 PM
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Sweet!
CHT was disconnected. Running better now. Didn't get it very hot, but ran a while and never went below 10 psi.
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FlacaProductions
post Oct 17 2025, 07:10 PM
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Excellent. Now maybe a new idiot light sender?
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brant
post Oct 18 2025, 05:46 AM
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This seems very concerning if it were me

Not below 10 you mention
But is it 70 at start up
Is it 40-50 psi on the highway at 75mph?


The 10 figure is the very bare minimum
Thought this was a fresh build
Sounds like your on the threshold of rebuild at 10 psi

I think you have a yet undiscovered issue

As stated earlier have you examined the bore of the relief piston?

I have been in your shoes on a fresh rebuild with low pressure
My motor came apart again for line bore when it happened to me



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emerygt350
post Oct 18 2025, 09:33 AM
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I assume you mean didn't drop below 10 at idle?
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trojanhorsepower
post Oct 18 2025, 11:57 AM
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Sorry, correct, not below 10 at idle (only a few minutes though). It never seemed to go over about 35, but I did not push the motor past about 4k rpm. Hopefully today I can change the oil and try again. Then I will add the CFR bypass setup when it arrives. Out of curiosity is reasonable to change the bypass setup with out draining the oil?
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emerygt350
post Oct 18 2025, 03:18 PM
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I am not sure. I put the tangerine bit in there when I rebuilt mine so no oil at the time. Also, what viscosity are you using in your oil? I use mobil1 0w40 euro and find it holds up to high heat better than some dinosaur oils. Lots of people use 50 weight in these but I think that's too thick for the reasons mentioned above. After I get off the highway when the oil is real beaten up and hot I will drop maybe to 8 but my light doesn't come on. After a couple minutes in town its back to 10+ at idle. I do have an aftermarket oil pump though. Hot and hot highway I am at a minimum of 35 at 3k cruising. If the temps outside are even slightly cool (in the 60s) it will be up around 40+ at 3k highway cruising.

I would also say that cruising at 60 doesn't result in that behavior. Only 70 mph interstate cruising. 60 through the country doesn't thin the oil like that for me.
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Geezer914
post Oct 19 2025, 06:29 AM
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2056 with CMP 26mm T1 pump. Tangerine oil pressure relief valve running Driven 15w/50 oil. 78psi. cold and 40psi. hot at 3400rpm. I have biral cylinders and my oil temp runs around 185-190 degrees. 10 psi. hot at idle, 1100rpm.
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ChrisFoley
post Oct 19 2025, 01:00 PM
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QUOTE(trojanhorsepower @ Oct 18 2025, 12:57 PM) *

Out of curiosity is reasonable to change the bypass setup with out draining the oil?

yes!
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trojanhorsepower
post Nov 24 2025, 03:46 PM
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The latest:
reminder -fresh build 4 cyl 2056, tangerine oil bypass bit installed, 3 psi low oil pressure switch, VR1 20w-50 oil.

cold oil idle 65 psi, warmish is more like 10. Took the gauge off (a test setup) and drove it but never drove it long or hard. No light.

Drove it a lot this weekend. It runs pretty well. When driven until its fully heated up and idled down say when you pull up to park the low oil light comes on. If you blip the throttle it goes off, but would come back on if allowed. It seems fine while driving, nothing feels hot, but I don't like it.
So what are the odds its just the oil pump? Can the oil pump be replaced with out splitting the case?

Thanks
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