Aux air regulator prototype Options

[emerygt350]

This is probably just a prototype, but I suggest you make the case out of aluminum to stand up to the heat, or Nylon 6-6 which is good to 450 deg F or so.

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When everything is ready I will use the UV resin printer for the final box. That stuff is robust! Once the prototype does (or doesn't) do what I need I will be creating structures to mount it directly to the original mounts and ground through that as well.

[VaccaRabite]

My old MS2 2056 had an ICV based on temps. It used a 3 wire valve from a Kia that cost less then $20, with a printed nozzle similar to yours. I spent a lot of time playing with it, getting the curve exactly where I wanted it for any given temp up to 180*F, when I would fully close. The higher "on" temps made hot starts easier.

I suspect you are going to want more resolution then just on/off. But I'm interested to see what the real world results are on your car.

Zach

[emerygt350]

My old MS2 2056 had an ICV based on temps. It used a 3 wire valve from a Kia that cost less then $20, with a printed nozzle similar to yours. I spent a lot of time playing with it, getting the curve exactly where I wanted it for any given temp up to 180*F, when I would fully close. The higher "on" temps made hot starts easier.

I suspect you are going to want more resolution then just on/off. But I'm interested to see what the real world results are on your car.

Zach

That might be my next move if I need more variable adjustment. I see that kia one is only 15 dollars.

[Literati914]

While trying to decide if I want to keep d-jet for my Volvo 1800E engine build - I was reading up on the components and came across the following, which reminded me of this thread and your endevor for a solution. This wouldn't work in the 914 I suppose, but it's interesting.

"...Aux Air Valve Alternative:

For those that value function over a stock engine compartment, or wish to keep a working fast-idle which does not require arranging for a mortgage to buy a replacement valve, here is a good working manual replacement using a Heater Control Valve [Yes, you read right! There is nothing that says this valve can't control the flow of air instead of Coolant!]
..here is a modestly priced generic Heater Control Valve, mounted in the general original location and manually controlled from the dashboard with a Bowden Cable...a brilliantly simple solution! .."

[emerygt350]

While trying to decide if I want to keep d-jet for my Volvo 1800E engine build - I was reading up on the components and came across the following, which reminded me of this thread and your endevor for a solution. This wouldn't work in the 914 I suppose, but it's interesting.

"...Aux Air Valve Alternative:

For those that value function over a stock engine compartment, or wish to keep a working fast-idle which does not require arranging for a mortgage to buy a replacement valve, here is a good working manual replacement using a Heater Control Valve [Yes, you read right! There is nothing that says this valve can't control the flow of air instead of Coolant!]
..here is a modestly priced generic Heater Control Valve, mounted in the general original location and manually controlled from the dashboard with a Bowden Cable...a brilliantly simple solution! .."

I might be headed that way. I have everything setup now and on the car, using a toyota purge valve now instead of the water valve.

Works great, but I just don't think it is worth it. I just feel like a manual lever would be exactly what I want on a car like this. I can also put it inline with the existing setup and just close it when I find the AAR is being annoying.