1.8 is out... 2056 is in and it runs!, It's a runner! Wahhooo! Options

[TRP]

Don't be afraid to adjust (tiny amounts of course) and drive for a while. It's how I got L-Jet to work on a stock 2.0 years ago. After a little fiddling here and there, wound up being a very sweet combo.

The link already posted is the same one I used years back:

https://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com/viewtopic.php?t=7761

Very helpful indeed.

-Dan

Thanks Dan, that link is really good. From what I can tell right now, the car is lean at idle (again...). I may go back and hook up the smoke machine again and see if I sprung a new leak. If that's not the case, then I will start by adjusting the static one tooth. What I'm confused about it how to adjust the static one tooth. Those teeth are TINY. Looking at the instructions, you just loosen the screw and pry on something. That sounds sketchy as hell.

All of this kind of beats working...

Ted

[FlacaProductions]

ok ok...ya got me.
Is this the link to the unit you got?
https://a.co/d/00FlLJvz

[TRP]

ok ok...ya got me.
Is this the link to the unit you got?
https://a.co/d/00FlLJvz

Yup! That's it! Seems kind of silly, but that helped me find 3 leaks in less than 10 minutes. For $65.00, seemed like a no brainer decision. The hardest part was clearing out all of the smoke from the engine bay after I found each leak, it just kind of hangs in there and you can't see anything!:D I just grabbed a big fan and it cleared out the smoke in seconds. The pump uses highly refined mineral oil as the smoke agent, harmless to the car. The smell reminds me of the smoke from the old HO scale train engines.

I now know where the 'trouble spots' are on my car, so I was just now able to go back in and find what was causing me to run lean again. Checked the three original spots and sure enough, one of them was leaking again. Fixed that and I'm back in business.

Further updates: I pulled up my skirt and adjusted the static setting one notch and now it's running 13.3-14.3 at idle. Goes fat on high speed (off idle). So, now I guess need to adjust the dynamic setting clockwise and then trim the air bypass for best idle. :shrug: I guess I'll keep noodling. It's not as scary once you just throw caution to the wind.

Something else I found that many of you may find interesting... The car was surging at idle a bunch, wasn't sure what was causing that. I poked around and found that one of the big vacuum lines (the big one that connects to the air intake plenum) was collapsing. When the car was about to die... the vacuum would relax a bit... the line would no longer be collapsed.. idle would come back... repeat. I swapped out the line with one that is slightly thicker walled... and it went away. The line I swapped in is the wrong ID and it's not fully seated on the deceleration valve

[fiacra]

Thanks for posting your progress. It has been fun following your journey. Way to go with getting in there and adjusting the AFM wheel! Just like you, once I overcame my initial worry it turned out to be fairly easy. The intinerant air cooled AFM explanation was really helpful for me as well. Curious to know where you got the vacuum line that was collapsing. I got most of mine from CIP1, and also got some thick walled metric silicone vacuum line from IPD (Volvo supply). I've also had a surging at idle problem that I haven't been able to fully track down. You've given me something else to check that I doubt I would have thought of.

[TRP]

Thanks for posting your progress. It has been fun following your journey. Way to go with getting in there and adjusting the AFM wheel! Just like you, once I overcame my initial worry it turned out to be fairly easy. The intinerant air cooled AFM explanation was really helpful for me as well. Curious to know where you got the vacuum line that was collapsing. I got most of mine from CIP1, and also got some thick walled metric silicone vacuum line from IPD (Volvo supply). I've also had a surging at idle problem that I haven't been able to fully track down. You've given me something else to check that I doubt I would have thought of.

Thank you for the encouragement to even think about doing any of this. LOL.

So, I picked up the Choline hose from Pelican and another size from Auto Atlanta. Neither were a really great fit for this specific fitting. The first thing I thought of when I picked it up was "oh this is going to collapse under vacuum..." -- it did. The walls are simply too thin to withstand any sort of vacuum. It's collapsing right at the intake plenum, where it's picking up the most heat off the engine block. Heat makes it soft enough to pucker in on itself. It's also starting to pucker a bit up by the deceleration valve, but not as bad. I bet I could find a spring to shove in the ends and it might cure it, or it will just collapse somewhere else along the line/hose. Getting a thicker walled hose will solve it for sure. The thicker stuff I put on there right now seems like it will be fine, I just need to put it in boiling water to soften the ends up enough to get onto the fittings. I would be interested to hear how yours works out.

I'm back in the home office... reviewing agendas, answering email, etc. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)

She who shall be obeyed has us flying out tomorrow morning for some sort of trip. I won't be able to get anything done on the car until next week. Sooo close, it's a bummer to have to step away. However if I don't obey she gets cranky. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

[TRP]

okay, latest update is that I'm running a pretty steady 850 rpms at idle. No surging. AFR at idle is dialed in to a comfortable 13.5-14.1. The number isn't rock solid, kind of bops around a bit between mid 13s and 14's. When I'm on the power the AFR drops into the 10s, with 10.4 at 3k rpms. This feels like it's too fat on power and that I may want to go another click down on the big wheel. I think I'm going to call it for a while and let my brain cool off.

I found another issue that I have also corrected! I had the vacuum line hooked up from the throttle body to the 123, it was something I was dinking with while trying to troubleshoot the original idle problem and I never unhooked it. The good news is that this was working properly with the 123, Unfortunately that was adding too much timing along with what I had set in the 123. I was seeing up to 40 degrees at 4k. No bueno. I yoinked that line, plugged the port at the throttle body, and left the 123 port open. Everything seems to be pretty stable now and tracking to the curve I have set in the 123. I suppose I could have also disable the vac advance in the 123, but I didn't think of that until now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Man, thanks again guys for all the advice, links, and support.

Next up?... setting the Renshifter and CFR linkage back up so that I can find the gears. If didn't have to leave town, I could be driving this thing over the weekend. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mad.gif) Who wants to go to Nashville anyway?