Wideband AFR gauge and sensor? Options

[TRP]

Hello,

As I waiit for Ken to finish building my 2056 I want to keep moving on other projects. As I mentioned before, I am keeping the LJet, running 2.0 heads, 2.0 intake runners, the flexible couplers from 914Werke, and the larger bus throttle body. I have read a few threads on this conversion/ upgrade and understand it's straightforward, but I may need to verify the AFR.

Should I buy a wideband gauge and sensor? Or is this as easy as "adjusting some big wheel one click"?

If I should get a wideband setup, which one do you all recommend?

Thanks in advance.

[Ninja]

I would not do a T4 without both a wideband and a spark plug located verified accurate CHT.

The wide band SHOWS you how much to "turn that wheel" and which direction you need to go.

The CHT keeps you from melting it down.

There are multiple ways to "turn the wheel" on a L-jet one of which is actually adjusting the flap tension on the AFM by turning a wheel and relocking the index.

I haven't bought a new one in years. I don't know what the hot ticket is today.

Biggest problem on a T4 appears to be sensor placement IMO.

A 4-1 exhaust like Tangerine or MSDS is the easy button but $$$.

Normal HE pipe only sees one cylinder. It will still read fine for that single cylinder only.

Muffler exit is NG as it sees oxygen from the atmosphere for 8-12" deep.

The Bursch muffler set ups have an excellent spot directly before the muffler.

[TRP]

Thanks Ninja, I literally have no idea where that 'wheel' is located yet, I may lean on you guys when that time comes.

From what I've read here, if you can only do one sensor, folks say to put it on the tube from the number 3 cylinder. You can install multiple bungs and swap the sensor as you're tuning, but that seems more appropriate for carbs. Innovative does make a pretty slick unit that runs two sensors with two separate readouts on one gauge, it's 360 bucks. Ouch.

CHT seems like a good option as well, especially since I have the motor being built and the new heads already come with CHT holes drilled and tapped. I would need to open up the tins a bit for the sensor. Again, assuming #3 cylinder is the best location for that. I have read you can get a dual sensor and just open up the tin to accept it. Use one output for the existing CHT sensor and a second for the gauge?

This motor rebuild is getting expensive. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)