Frunk Latch Handle Question Options

[pbanders]

I've owned my 914 for 43 years. When I open the frunk, the handle stays in the "pulled out" position, I have to push it back in by hand. Is this how they all work? No spring to pull the handle back in? My engine compartment lid has a spring that pulls the handle back.

[Cairo94507]

Yes. But once you get accustomed to how it works you automatically push it in after the hood pops.

Just a reminder to anyone who has a front trunk handle failure, you can access the latch mechanism by removing the bumper. There is an access hole, maybe the size of a dime, right in front of the latch mechanism on the nose panel; a screwdriver will pop the latch so the trunk opens. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[pbanders]

Yes. But once you get accustomed to how it works you automatically push it in after the hood pops.

Yeah, after 43 years, I'm accustomed to it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Just thought I might be missing something after all that time.

[mgphoto]

Lube the mechanism and cable, should reset without pushing it back in. 43 years, it needs it.

[930cabman]

Timely,

mine works and returns as far as I know, but is verry difficult to pull. everything seems in order

[mepstein]

Lube the mechanism and cable, should reset without pushing it back in. 43 years, it needs it.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) That’s the correct answer. What happens when the cable and housing gets too dried out is you will pull really hard and either break something or pull the cable from the set screw. You will be shocked by how much better everything feels when you apply some lube on the pull mechanism, the cable and housing and the front latch. Do it on door, window and engine lid cable and your car will love you again. The flaps on the outside door latch break when you have to pull them too hard. Ask me how I know.

[wonkipop]

it could be the cable sheath itself.
look to the metal tube in the firewall in the front trunk above the left side wheel arch.
at this point the sheath has an nib like extra diam piece which i believe was originally bonded on the sheath in the factory parts. this nib can fail due to age and detach from the sheath which allows the whole cable - sheath and all to be drawn into the metal tube.

resulting at first in what you describe and after a while total failure to be able to trigger the trunk release.

solution if the fragments of the nib are still there - glue them back on and wrap with a zip tie. alternatively buy a new cable with a solid nib.

i repaired my original cable using the first method and the zip tie. but the fragments were still there on the shelf above the wheel arch to retrieve and do the repair.

i think this could possibly be your problem.

[TheCabinetmaker]

It's supposed to snap back in. Like others have said, it needs cleaning and a good lube.

[pbanders]

It's supposed to snap back in. Like others have said, it needs cleaning and a good lube.

Thanks, will give it a try and report back. Actually pulls and operates fine, but I'll get it needs to be lubed.

[Cairo94507]

Well heck...I will lube mine and see if it improves. What is the best lube for the cable? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[mgphoto]

Any grease that will stay in place as the interior of the vehicle will get hot. I use a moly lube I think it’s lithium based.

[930cabman]

Well heck...I will lube mine and see if it improves. What is the best lube for the cable? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

and how does one lube the cable? elevate one end and pour oil into the end?

[mepstein]

Well heck...I will lube mine and see if it improves. What is the best lube for the cable? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

and how does one lube the cable? elevate one end and pour oil into the end?

That sounds messy if the oil drips into the cabin. I took mine out, cleaned it, lubed it with some dry lube I use on my bicycle chain and then reinstalled. You can use grease but the thicker it is, the more tension will be required to pull the cable.
It’s a very satisfying two finger pull once everything is lubed up.

[Cairo94507]

Thanks Mark; that was what I was looking for. I will buy some dry lube and give it a try. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[mgphoto]

Dry lube usually graphite will wear the plastic tube quickly, unless it’s molybdenum powder, expensive, try Tri-Flow bicycle lube, I use it on the door latch mechanism.

[mepstein]

Dry lube usually graphite will wear the plastic tube quickly, unless it’s molybdenum powder, expensive, try Tri-Flow bicycle lube, I use it on the door latch mechanism.

The dry lube that they sell for bike chains is wax based. Dirt doesn’t stick to it. Tri flow used to be my go-to for chain lube but now many people including myself use melted paraffin.

[pbanders]

OK, thanks for the advice. I've got it working now, for the first time since I bought the car in 1983. But, I'm still confused somewhat about its operation.

What I did was to first open the wire anchor in the latch, and remove excess slack in the cable. I then used a fine-point oiler to lubricate all of the latch plate pivots. Lastly, I straightened the part of the wire that extended beyond the anchor so as to not interfere with or touch anything during operation.

Now, with a very short pull on the handle, the latch releases - but - the handle does not retract. It stays out a bit. If I now push down and close the hood, the latch engages and holds it down. If I check the handle, it's now completely in.

So, it's working, but it seems that closing the hood is necessary for that last bit of retraction. I still can't see where after the handle is pulled, that there's any spring action that pulls the handle back in. Looks like that force comes from the act of closing the hood and engaging the latch.

I'll get round to pulling the cable and lubricating it, as well as the handle itself, maybe that will do the trick.

[mepstein]

OK, thanks for the advice. I've got it working now, for the first time since I bought the car in 1983. But, I'm still confused somewhat about its operation.

What I did was to first open the wire anchor in the latch, and remove excess slack in the cable. I then used a fine-point oiler to lubricate all of the latch plate pivots. Lastly, I straightened the part of the wire that extended beyond the anchor so as to not interfere with or touch anything during operation.

Now, with a very short pull on the handle, the latch releases - but - the handle does not retract. It stays out a bit. If I now push down and close the hood, the latch engages and holds it down. If I check the handle, it's now completely in.

So, it's working, but it seems that closing the hood is necessary for that last bit of retraction. I still can't see where after the handle is pulled, that there's any spring action that pulls the handle back in. Looks like that force comes from the act of closing the hood and engaging the latch.

I'll get round to pulling the cable and lubricating it, as well as the handle itself, maybe that will do the trick.

It will.

[pbanders]

I'll get round to pulling the cable and lubricating it, as well as the handle itself, maybe that will do the trick.

It will.

Yeah, now that I have the latch working correctly, I can tell there's too much friction from the cable and possibly the handle sleeve. I'll replace the cable and likely the housing, too. For now, I'm happy enough that even if the handle doesn't retract on it's own, just closing the hood is enough to get the spring to pull the cable and reset the handle, and engage the latch.

My 55 year-old car is just like its 68 year-old owner, a bit rusty, tight, and cranky.

[930cabman]

I'll get round to pulling the cable and lubricating it, as well as the handle itself, maybe that will do the trick.

It will.

Yeah, now that I have the latch working correctly, I can tell there's too much friction from the cable and possibly the handle sleeve. I'll replace the cable and likely the housing, too. For now, I'm happy enough that even if the handle doesn't retract on it's own, just closing the hood is enough to get the spring to pull the cable and reset the handle, and engage the latch.

My 55 year-old car is just like its 68 year-old owner, a bit rusty, tight, and cranky.

Exactly like many of us