What to do about scratch in Rear Main Seal bore? Options

[frank_c]

This photo hopefully shows the location of the drain hole better. It’s at the lowest point on the case, just left of the case parting line.

Got it - that helps clear things up for me. I saw images of some cases with only one drain hole at the 8 O'Clock position and no thin drain at the bottom. I assumed that the hole was the GoWesty mod, but I was wondering how the oil ever drained without the mod? Now that I see your photos and reviewed the GoWesty instructions for drilling the hole (I skipped those instructions since I wasn't doing the mod), I see that the hole at the 8 O'Clock position (one some cases) was the factory drain, and the GoWesty aux hole is at the bottom - makes more sense now.

So if I understand correctly, there are three types of factory RMS bore drains for the Type 4 engine:

1. Hole at the 8 O'Clock position (none at bottom)
2. Thin vertical slot at bottom
3. Large square at bottom

Number 1 & 2 above benefit from the GoWesty mod. Number 3 does not need it. Did I get that right?

@Ninja , I'm happy to say that the image I posted with the large square drain hole (#3 in my list) is my case - so no drilling for me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[frank_c]

Slightly off-topic but related - Yay or Nay on the use of Blue Loctite on the flywheel bolts (new). I can't find any consensus on this (sort of like the use of a rear sway-bar on the 914 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)).

[Jack Standz]

This photo hopefully shows the location of the drain hole better. It’s at the lowest point on the case, just left of the case parting line.

Got it - that helps clear things up for me. I saw images of some cases with only one drain hole at the 8 O'Clock position and no thin drain at the bottom. I assumed that the hole was the GoWesty mod, but I was wondering how the oil ever drained without the mod? Now that I see your photos and reviewed the GoWesty instructions for drilling the hole (I skipped those instructions since I wasn't doing the mod), I see that the hole at the 8 O'Clock position (one some cases) was the factory drain, and the GoWesty aux hole is at the bottom - makes more sense now.

So if I understand correctly, there are three types of factory RMS bore drains for the Type 4 engine:

1. Hole at the 8 O'Clock position (none at bottom)
2. Thin vertical slot at bottom
3. Large square at bottom

Number 1 & 2 above benefit from the GoWesty mod. Number 3 does not need it. Did I get that right?

@Ninja , I'm happy to say that the image I posted with the large square drain hole (#3 in my list) is my case - so no drilling for me (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Yes, the hole at the 8 o'clock position in my posting is the factory drain hole. So, adding a drain hole to #1 makes sense IMHO. #2 I have no experience with adding a drain hole. #3 doesn't need another drain hole IMHO.

IMHO either use nothing on the flywheel fasteners or use blue loctite (what we do).

[porschetub]

Slightly off-topic but related - Yay or Nay on the use of Blue Loctite on the flywheel bolts (new). I can't find any consensus on this (sort of like the use of a rear sway-bar on the 914 (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)).

Cant hurt to use a little blue Loctite on the bolts ,just make sure the crank threads and bolts are super clean ,don't put grease on the inside of the seal ,motor oil on the shims and seal lip is best ,end of story .
Torque bolts to spec and recheck end float and you will be good ,cheers .

[frank_c]

Thanks guys. I went with oil on the shims, Red Line Assembly Lube on the seal lip, and a little blue Loctite on the new flywheel bolts (with new locking plate). Posting a photo for closure (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif).

I'll post my experience with using the GoWesty tool a bit later - I have a goal to get the engine and transmission back together and ready to go back in the car by EOD.