Ron's 914, High oil temp Options

[emerygt350]

I wouldn't be afraid of trying 40 weight or less if you have plenty of oil pressure (they did come with 30 weight). Not going to impact this much but I think the reasons for using high quality thinner oils when possible are pretty good, particularly from a cooling standpoint. Pushing thick oil through an engine is not going to move as much heat. At the most simple level you are looking at the volume of oil passing across a hot surface. You don' t know what the builder used for tolerances, so you may be running a thick as paste oil on an engine that has very tight bearing tolerances.

this is the whole point of a 20/50...

ugh now I'm getting sucked into this, sorry... Oil isn't his issue, let's not blow this up into an oil thread, there are so many out there and so many opinions, it's ridiculous...

Not to get sucked in but I don't think the numbers represent what you think they represent if you believe 20w50 isn't thick at operating temps...
https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en/understa...ng-oil-weights/

[Ron914]

Well I finally was able to get my AFR gauge installed and was hoping something as to lean would be the issue but I don't think so.


I also talked to Dakota digital about confusion from the readings . I ended up sending them my gauge and sender to be checked and they returned it saying there is nothing wrong with it , added something about the internal temperature (?) effects the gauge if you let it warm up without no temperature change . I reconnected it and made sure the F appeared in display but I still question the readings . I am not a fan of this gauge as it does not show a C/F next to value , you only see this in set up .

I am still running on the hot side so not confident on driving more than 20-30 minutes as the needle on my temperature gauge comes right up to the red box on the gauge .

I also am looking for information on what value of readings I should see at warm/idle. My understanding is I should be looking for ~14.7 % .

I turned the key on and gauge showed heating and then somewhere around 12.07 % , the CHT showed 69 which was close to ambient temp in the morning . Not sure if this is an normal but my temp gauge moves almost 1/4 of full range when I turn on key (so it seems like I start out high before I start my motor) Car is pulling 18-22 on the vacuum gauge



I have a hard time believing the CHT is only 88F. I know I need to make adjustments to the MPS but I think I need to solve the overheating issue first .

Shows gauges after 26 minutes of driving and the temperature when I stick the turkey fryer thermometer in oil dipstick . When the gauge is getting close to the red I measured ~218 F .


I forgot an important question about the AFR . Should I disconnect the Lambda sensor or is ok to drive around with it installed . Seems like I read somewhere this bad if not actively monitoring the AF ratio .

[FlacaProductions]

where is your sensor for the CHT gauge?
Under #3 plug?
Are you sure you're not still in Celsius?

If you're not powering the AFR, you should pull the sensor and plug the bung. It's hard on the sensor.

[FlacaProductions]

Dakota Digital instructions to get from C to F display on that gauge:

To change your Cylinder Head Temperature (CHT) gauge from Celsius to Fahrenheit, follow the setup mode using the gauge's sensor wires.

Disconnect the red and yellow sensor wires from the temperature sender, and ensure the headlights are off.

Turn your ignition key to the ON position. The gauge will display "SEt".Briefly touch the red and yellow sensor wires together. The screen will flash "F" or "C".

Momentarily touch the wires together again to toggle between F or C.

Once "F" is displayed, keep the wires touching together for about 2 seconds to save the selection.

The gauge will display "HI" to move into warning settings.

Simply release the wires and turn the key OFF to exit the setup routine.

Also - confirming you have the connections between the gauge and the sender correctly oriented. I had them reversed on my initial install and was getting odd reading - similar to yours - maybe that's it for you.

[emerygt350]

Did you say your oil temp gauge jumps a quarter way just from turning the key on?

If the ring is not seated correctly it will read way off on the cool side.

Your afr looks fine so far.

How soon after starting the engine were you getting 212 oil on the meat thermometer?

[Ron914]

Did you say your oil temp gauge jumps a quarter way just from turning the key on?

If the ring is not seated correctly it will read way off on the cool side.

Your afr looks fine so far.

How soon after starting the engine were you getting 212 oil on the meat thermometer?

Hi Dan ,
Yes , as soon as I turn the key on. You can see how much in the first photo where vacuum is zero . This makes me wonder if the gauge is malfunctioning and maybe I do not have a problem .
I assume you're talking about the spark plug ring sensor being loose . This brings up a possible problem .My heads have slightly recessed openings for the plugs so getting the ring correctly seated may be an issue . I really need to put a bit of tongue to the wrench when installing the plug and do not want to strip the threads out so I could try to tighten down a bit more .

Time stamps on the photos show 68 to 212F in approximately 26 minutes . Doesn't seem right to me ?

I have pulled the temperature sender and verified its a VDO 200C sensor and tested it in 212F water while connected to the cars gauge but I cannot find that photo now .

The AFR did look fairly good , probably why I passed my smog test .

[emerygt350]

Definitely a problem with the line or the gauge or the sender. I can't remember which direction it works in but I think it would be easy to pull it and put a multimeter on that circuit a d see where it is with just the key turned not running cold engine. If it is where it's supposed to be you know the gauge is funky. I am betting the line or the sender is the problem though. I would have to check mine to know what 0 temp resistance would be. Maybe someone on this thread knows. I seem to have a memory of something like that happening on my car. There is no way to wire that backwards is there? Maybe try swapping leads.

26 minutes to 212 seems pretty quick unless you are on the freeway or climbing hills.

There is a pressure relief system that keeps high pressure (cold) oil out of the oil cooler. Do you have an oil pressure gauge? If your pressure never drops below that level the oil will not enter the cooler and it will get hotter until it does.

If there is a high pressure pump in your motor, and your clearances are all tight, that might be your problem. I would try some high quality 10w30 just to see what happens. Use something like mobil1 classic car 10w30. Cheap at walmart.

I am certain the plug isn't in tight. Don't force it. If you strip it or cross thread it you are out of luck. Pull it, look it over, see if you can bend that ring in a way it won't get cockeyed as you thread in the plug. It's tough on my car so I rarely pull plug 3 unless I really need to. When I put mine back in I really take my time and I don't tighten it unless I am really confident it's not cross threaded.

[Ishley]

Pull the spark plugs and post a picture. Number each one from the cyl they came out of. Also show the plug part number so we can see the heat range. If you’re running too lean then that will drive your temps up. That should give some indication of Air/fuel ratio and if that is your problem.

[Ron914]

Pull the spark plugs and post a picture. Number each one from the cyl they came out of. Also show the plug part number so we can see the heat range. If you’re running too lean then that will drive your temps up. That should give some indication of Air/fuel ratio and if that is your problem.

Last time I checked the plugs they were good . I just finished the install of a AFR set up and running to lean still does not appear to be the problem.

[Ron914]

Definitely a problem with the line or the gauge or the sender. I can't remember which direction it works in but I think it would be easy to pull it and put a multimeter on that circuit a d see where it is with just the key turned not running cold engine. If it is where it's supposed to be you know the gauge is funky. I am betting the line or the sender is the problem though. I would have to check mine to know what 0 temp resistance would be. Maybe someone on this thread knows. I seem to have a memory of something like that happening on my car. There is no way to wire that backwards is there? Maybe try swapping leads.

26 minutes to 212 seems pretty quick unless you are on the freeway or climbing hills.

There is a pressure relief system that keeps high pressure (cold) oil out of the oil cooler. Do you have an oil pressure gauge? If your pressure never drops below that level the oil will not enter the cooler and it will get hotter until it does.

If there is a high pressure pump in your motor, and your clearances are all tight, that might be your problem. I would try some high quality 10w30 just to see what happens. Use something like mobil1 classic car 10w30. Cheap at walmart.

I am certain the plug isn't in tight. Don't force it. If you strip it or cross thread it you are out of luck. Pull it, look it over, see if you can bend that ring in a way it won't get cockeyed as you thread in the plug. It's tough on my car so I rarely pull plug 3 unless I really need to. When I put mine back in I really take my time and I don't tighten it unless I am really confident it's not cross threaded.

I really do not know what oil pump was replaced by the guy who put the motor together just that he did not like the one that came with the car so he installed a new one $30 or 40 .

I bought an oil pressure gauge but it is a 60 mm and I don't have the sending unit yet
,I will be posting this for sale later .

I built another gauge panel and want to convert to all 52mm gauges . I will probably take me a month or so to get the parts together to switch over .

I did make an offset bend (like a spatula ) to make it easier . I agree and really do not like changing the #3 plug . I used some di-electeric grease on the threads but it just seemed like too many turns on the ratchet ,although there not full turns as access sucks

The resistance I feel just might be the ring seating down into that hole but again . I'll give that another go in the morning but don't think it will help my overheating ?

I have a few gauges in my want list do you happen to know if a 52mm VDO 310012 oil temp gauge 120-300F will work with the factory sending unit ( it is a single lead case grounded )