Where to make the cut on a clutch tube repair? Options

[Tdskip]

So as some of you may remember, I’ve been battling a shifting issue that I diagnosed as an improperly rebuilt transmission so I bought a replacement one from Bruce (that had been rebuilt by our very own Dr Evil) I’m having the same issues getting gears with the engine running. New coupler, bushings good, shifter adjusted properly, clutch linkage not bent etc…

So that means my inability to get gears is most likely the clutch tube flopping around. It appears I need to open up the tunnel and I wanted to ask if where my finger is pointing is the right spot to make a cut?

Thanks!

[930cabman]

No pics, but I took out a whole section about 3" x 10" for general repairs. When done I will simply tack in back in

[JeffBowlsby]

STRONGLY recommend that you remove the shifter, and/or open the forward tunnel access panel to inspect actual conditions. Using a mirror and flashlight, or better a borescope, look for the issue. Inspect the front tube and middle tube brackets, and also the rear firewall below the engine bay.

Make a conclusion only after inspection, then deciding on the repair(s) can be discussed.

[Tdskip]

STRONGLY recommend that you remove the shifter, and/or open the forward tunnel access panel to inspect actual conditions. Using a mirror and flashlight, or better a borescope, look for the issue. Inspect the front tube and middle tube brackets, and also the rear firewall below the engine bay.

Make a conclusion only after inspection, then deciding on the repair(s) can be discussed.

Good coaching Jeff, thanks.

@930cabman - The area is not structural so opening up a good size working space isn’t the end of the world, that’s a good tip too.

[dr914@autoatlanta.com]

there is a diagram in the appendix of the tech tips 700

[Tdskip]

there is a diagram in the appendix of the tech tips 700

Sorry but I am not familiar with that resource, where is it located?

Thanks for the post.

[barefoot]

here's where I cut open to get access to the front bracket,
enlarged the opening between 2 round ports ;
BTW I just used a clamp intended for electrical conduit, took a little blacksmithing
to get correct curvature (a 3/8 extension was perfect anvil) then 1/4" bolt, no welding
Barefoot

[Tdskip]

here's where I cut open to get access to the front bracket,
enlarged the opening between 2 round ports ;
BTW I just used a clamp intended for electrical conduit, took a little blacksmithing
to get correct curvature (a 3/8 extension was perfect anvil) then 1/4" bolt, no welding
Barefoot

Thank you, appreciate the reply.

[Montreal914]

A long time ago I was able to repair mine without cutting the tunnel.
If I recall, I drilled a hole (or two) on the side of the tunnel and did a plug weld.
When removing the shifter, you are able to see more of what is going on.
Again this was many years ago, but I weld it back without cutting anything.
Sorry, its kind of vague but I am sure I saw this somewhere here.

[Tdskip]

A long time ago I was able to repair mine without cutting the tunnel.
If I recall, I drilled a hole (or two) on the side of the tunnel and did a plug weld.
When removing the shifter, you are able to see more of what is going on.
Again this was many years ago, but I weld it back without cutting anything.
Sorry, its kind of vague but I am sure I saw this somewhere here.

I have the shifter out, will take a look with a bright light to see what I can see.

Seems like a good time to replace the clutch cable itself in case there is some stretching or weirdness going on with that, no?

[Tdskip]

Took the shifter out and when I depress the clutch there is slight movement of the torque tube.

Am I correct in assuming there should be ZERO movement of that tube when the clutch is depressed?

Thanks!

[Superhawk996]

Am I correct in assuming there should be ZERO movement of that tube when the clutch is depressed?

Thanks!

Correct - maybe the tinyest flex (like 1/32”) but nothing significant

[Tdskip]

Am I correct in assuming there should be ZERO movement of that tube when the clutch is depressed?

Thanks!

Correct - maybe the tinyest flex (like 1/32”) but nothing significant

Thank you for the confirmation. I have more than that so time for a fix.

[Superhawk996]

Picture for reference of where things are

Donor part shown has broken center bracket and has been previously repaired at front with j-hooks.

[914rrr]

I just did (another) clutch cable conduit repair recently. PM me and I'd be glad to share my experience(s). Last one was substantially more difficult as the conduit had torn completely loose and was flopping around inside the tunnel.

There's a really good chance you're going to have firewall metal repairs where the conduit passes through it. Both of mine did.

Here's my 1st one for reference.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...;hl=clutch+tube

[Tdskip]

Thank you for all the replies and information – super helpful and I am expecting that they’ll be other repairs on this required. Really appreciate the photos and links and feedback

[Tdskip]

OK - so I cut open access to the coach tube in front of the shifter and put these two tack welds on and that eliminated the flex. I was feeling on the tube in that area..



Reassembled everything and it shifted better but still problematic so I got underneath the car and filmed the tube where the clutch cable exits and sure enough, as suggested, I have slight movement there as well.

[914rrr]

Welding tip: best if the cable isn't in the conduit even when tacking and for good measure, it helps to insert a copper tube inside the tack area to make sure it doesn't burn through and leave a burr, nugget, etc.

You may also want to check on the under side of the clamp with a mirror to make isn't torn down there.

[Tdskip]

Welding tip: best if the cable isn't in the conduit even when tacking and for good measure, it helps to insert a copper tube inside the tack area to make sure it doesn't burn through and leave a burr, nugget, etc.

You may also want to check on the under side of the clamp with a mirror to make isn't torn down there.

Great tips, thanks.

I've since removed the cable to replace it with a new one so will check the welds and use the copper tube idea. Front tube was rock solid after these tacks but will check the underside as well.

Thinking I need to wire brush the rear tube opening area and get some additional welds there now?

[914rrr]

Welding tip: best if the cable isn't in the conduit even when tacking and for good measure, it helps to insert a copper tube inside the tack area to make sure it doesn't burn through and leave a burr, nugget, etc.

You may also want to check on the under side of the clamp with a mirror to make isn't torn down there.

Great tips, thanks.

I've since removed the cable to replace it with a new one so will check the welds and use the copper tube idea. Front tube was rock solid after these tacks but will check the underside as well.

Thinking I need to wire brush the rear tube opening area and get some additional welds there now?

Please be aware that the fuel lines are within an inch or so of the conduit. This is where "mission creep" sneaks its way in, as in, "well, if I have to remove the fuel lines so I don't burn them, I may as well replace them with ss ones..." etc.

When replacing the clutch cable, it may be a good idea to have a clutch cable lever arm bushing and clutch clevis pin handy if yours is worn through like mine was. Also see if you can get a nut(s) for the trans end of the cable for lock nut duties, as it's a weird size (7 mm?) that hardly anyone carries.