Fred's 2374 -> 2258 Engine Build Thread Options

[zig-n-zag]

The “initial mock-up test fit” and “case gauge” comment triggered a memory on how I was told to determine if a case was still good or not.

Say you came across a used Type 4 engine for sale which was complete and still together. Check the 6 case bolts if they are still torqued to factory spec. If they are, then torque those case bolts to 30 ftlbs. The crank should still turn smoothly. Any binding means the case would need a line-bore.

If the nuts were loose, inspect the case saddles. The original machining marks should be visible. If not, then line-bore. Yes, you can check by installing a crank with bearings and do the 30lbs test, and it will probably pass. But if built, when the engine comes up to operating temperature, it may seize.

[930cabman]

Do I have to run the AFR gauge into the main cabin? This cable is thick. Would it be sufficient just run it into the engine bay and put the gauge there? I know it's not a gauge that you don't need all the time. Opinions welcome?

I purchased an Innovate LM 2 several years ago, just recently got it connected successfully (connected into the cabin), it is showing rich under 3k rpms telling me the idle circuit needs to be leaned out. In the past I have relied on the color of spark plugs for AFR. Has worked ok for me, but I am far from a dyed in the wool tuner, more like seat of the pants.

I like having a tube fed oil pressure gauge and a capillary tube temp gauge in the cabin. BUT, my builds are stock, nothing out of the ordinary. I'll bet cylinder head temps are also important

[Jack Standz]

Do I have to run the AFR gauge into the main cabin? This cable is thick. Would it be sufficient just run it into the engine bay and put the gauge there? I know it's not a gauge that you don't need all the time. Opinions welcome?

Fred.

Are you messing with us? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

Don't see how the gauge does you any good if you can't see it. So, yes in the main cabin where you can take note of AFRs under load, at different RPMs, WOT, going downhill, at cruise, etc. An AFR gauge really helps dial in carbs, idle jets, main jets, air correction, emulsion tubes, pump jets, venturis, etc.

With all the possible combinations of adjustments, it is an iterative process, so you'll want to note how your changes affect the AFRs. Then at some point you say things are "good enough", especially if you regularly run the car at sea level and at altitude. Until then, it's a gauge you're always watching.

[friethmiller]

Yeah that doesn’t make sense for an AFR. Can’t really see back there while you’re driving. I was looking at the wrong end of the cable and thinking “how in the world am I going to get this huge connector through the firewall". Luckily the other end was much smaller. I’ve already routed it with the CHT wires up under the console. Next, I need to figure out exactly how/where I going to mount the gauges.