Fred's 2374 -> 2258 Engine Build Thread Options

[friethmiller]

Good input guys. Thanks.

If I run .040" shims + either a .010" or a .08" shim (that I found this morning in my a box of engine components), I can now get a deck height of .046 on both sides of the engine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) That puts me at a CR of 9.2. One shim is best, I know, but I'd rather have equal deck height running two shims.

I'm set to clay the piston/valve clearance this evening, if I can cut down my adjustable push-rod. The clay is already in the #1 cylinder and torqued down ready to go.

It's basically round the clock engine building whenever I'm not working to pay the bills. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

[Ninja]

Make sure the shim packs are exactly the same on adjoining cylinders.

You can have different sizes across the engine but must be the same for both cylinders on one bank.

You can have trouble sealing jug to head is they are different on one bank.

[friethmiller]

Make sure the shim packs are exactly the same on adjoining cylinders.

You can have different sizes across the engine but must be the same for both cylinders on one bank.

You can have trouble sealing jug to head is they are different on one bank.

Yes, I've got a total of .050" on the 1&2 bank, and .048" on the other.

[930cabman]

Make sure the shim packs are exactly the same on adjoining cylinders.

You can have different sizes across the engine but must be the same for both cylinders on one bank.

You can have trouble sealing jug to head is they are different on one bank.

A recent 2056 build I used small strips of Plasti Gage at quarter points at the top of the cylinders when I did a trial cylinder head fit to compare how true the sealing surface ( cylinder to head) connection was. It gave me good information, bolted everything up without a gasket and 20k miles later she is still running great.

[friethmiller]

Make sure the shim packs are exactly the same on adjoining cylinders.

You can have different sizes across the engine but must be the same for both cylinders on one bank.

You can have trouble sealing jug to head is they are different on one bank.

A recent 2056 build I used small strips of Plasti Gage at quarter points at the top of the cylinders when I did a trial cylinder head fit to compare how true the sealing surface ( cylinder to head) connection was. It gave me good information, bolted everything up without a gasket and 20k miles later she is still running great.

Nice! That's a good idea (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[930cabman]

Make sure the shim packs are exactly the same on adjoining cylinders.

You can have different sizes across the engine but must be the same for both cylinders on one bank.

You can have trouble sealing jug to head is they are different on one bank.

A recent 2056 build I used small strips of Plasti Gage at quarter points at the top of the cylinders when I did a trial cylinder head fit to compare how true the sealing surface ( cylinder to head) connection was. It gave me good information, bolted everything up without a gasket and 20k miles later she is still running great.

Nice! That's a good idea (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Cost is near zero, doesn't take much time and provides information

[friethmiller]

Piston to Valve Clearance (8/31/2026):

Intake Clearance

To do this, I figured I needed to make sure my valve was meeting the spec for the max intake of .507". So, I bolted on a head and used an adjustable pushrod and dial gauge to make the necessary adjustments to hit this number. I wasn't concerned with the valve train geometry, just trying to make sure my valve was opening the required amount. Once that was accomplished, I pulled the head back off and placed clay under the intake valve area on the #1 piston.



I then reattached the head, valve train, and dial gauge. After several rotations of the crank, I pulled the head, cut the clay with a razor, and exposed the profile. With my vernier caliper, I took a measurement of 0.050".





This seems too close for me! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/chair.gif) [ @Ninja mentioned this earlier] I'm thinking this cam and piston combo may not be ideal. I did talk with a reps at AA today. They have liners that are matched with my 2618 JE Pistons with the valve pockets. This might be the better way to go. Hmmmm..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[Ninja]

"Standard" minimum valve to piston clearance:

Intake .080
Exhaust .100

I'm not certain if Type 4 clearance recommendations are different but there's not a snowballs chance in hell that I'd run what you currently have...

Like I mentioned in my pm one of the KBs shortcomings is it cannot accommodate a serious cam.

A little tiny eyebrow would help BIGTIME on them.

There are "redneck" cutters available for use directly in the head to "cut your own" for many applications (The LS GM engines are one of them).

I have no idea if such a critter is available for VW stuff.

Doesn't really matter. Hypereutectic material is a BITCH to cut (it's the glass that screws everything up) and I would not want to use a hyper cast piston that I'd cut through the outer "skin" on the crown.

Your JEs are beautiful, use them...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/ninja.gif)

Edit: on the "matched" liners...
As Ronald Regan once said "Trust but verify"!

[930cabman]

I'd play it safe