Can I remove the oil cooler without removing the engine?, EDIT... YES, IT CAN BE DONE IN 3+ HOURS TOTAL Options

[ClayPerrine]

It is entirely possible. I did it in the hotel parking lot in Salt Lake City when we were there for Parade in 2014. Got yelled at by the hotel staff too.

You don't have to pull the fan housing. Just remove the nuts, slide the cooler out against the fan housing, and unscrew the long studs from the case.

There is a thread in the classics forum that covers this: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=26033


Here is the procedure I wrote for that thread:

ON a type 4, you can remove the oil cooler WITHOUT removing the motor from the car, or removing the fan shroud. Changing the seals is a breeze...


Step 1.

Jack the car up so you can get under it easily....

Step 2.

Remove all the tin that blocks access to the lower side of the oil cooler.

Step 3.

Remove the bolts in the end of the fan housing that hold the support bracket for the oil cooler.

Step 4.

With a 10 mm socket, remove the nut that holds the inboard end of the oil cooler. This is the one on the short stud.

Step 5.

With a 10mm wrench, remove both the nuts that hold the cooler in place. These are the ones on the long studs.

Step 6.

Push the cooler forward up against the fan housing. You will have about 2 inches between the cooler and it's mounting surface.

Step 7.

Knock the old seals down with a screwdriver.

Step 8.

Install the new seals by putting plain (not molygraph) wheel bearing grease on the mating surface. Then put a large dab of grease on the screwdriver blade and stick the seal to it. Using the screwdriver, push the seal into its mount point and then pull the screwdriver straight down. This will scrape the seal from the end of the screwdriver, and leave the seal stuck to the case with the grease. Make sure that you do the upper seal first.

Reverse the disassembly directions for reassembly.



If you need to actually remove the oil cooler, after sliding it forward, use a pair of needle nose vice grips to unscrew the studs from the case. Then the cooler will come out when you remove the second long stud.


If you have AC in your 914, it just adds two steps.

Step 1.

Remove the battery. Then unbolt the AC compressor, lift it up and place it in the battery tray.

Step 2.

Remove the bolts holding the AC compressor mount to the fan housing and set the AC compressor mount aside.


Hope that helps someone in the future.

[flxzcat]

[/quote]
And for reference, over on the VW side of the family, people can drop the engine and transaxle out of a Beetle in less than a minute.
[/quote]


And wouldn't you want to drive that to work every day (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[fixer34]

[quote name='flxzcat' date='Jul 2 2026, 05:38 PM' post='3263759']
[/quote]
And for reference, over on the VW side of the family, people can drop the engine and transaxle out of a Beetle in less than a minute.
[/quote]


And wouldn't you want to drive that to work every day (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
[/quote]
I used to do the engine by myself on a Type 1 and Type 3 in about 15mins many years ago. The competition guys wouldn't have all the bolts real tight, quick disconnects, and then just yank the tailpipe(s) on a type 1 and let it drop to the pavement.

One of these days I need to do my -6, it has been a long time.

And speaking of in car repairs, try doing a fan belt on a -6, at night, on the side of the highway, after it has been driven a half hour in summer (so it is nice and hot..)

[ClayPerrine]

I drop the motor and trans out of the six yearly for maintenance. It is much easier to adjust the valves with the motor on the floor than in the car. And I always replace the fan belt when it's out too, even if it doesn't need it. I hate trying to set the shims on a 914-6 fan on the floor, much less while working blind in the engine compartment.