Low emi/noise ignition bits Options

[TRP]

It really sounds like we are having the same exact issues. I had Ed look at my distributor, he couldn't find anything wrong with it. He replaced the PCB and returned it to me last week. I was going to reinstall it today, however I have little faith that anything will be different from before. When you return, I am interested to hear what tips / suggestions were sent to you by the original manufacturer.

[TRP]

Well... I did NOT expect this.

So, I reinstalled the 123 Distributor that Ed sent back to me and followed all the directions as listed online. I set the entire timing curve to 10 degrees before TDC from 500-5000 rpms. Double checked the timing with a timing light.l; Everything checked out. Locked in at a solid 10 degrees at anything above 500 rpms.

I loaded up a new curve with basic benchmark settings at basic rpms, 10@1000, 20@2000, 25@3000, and just held 28 all the way out the back door. I double checked that the vacuum map was zeroed out and that the initial base timing was set at 0. Set my redline to 6000rpm. Started the car and double checked the timing at each of the timing marks. Everything looked good. None of this was different from any other time, so I held little hope of anything different on my test drive.

Took her for a spin and had a little hitch/lunching or two at first when I went under power. Assuming the problem still existed, I decided to press on and verify. I drove the car for about 15 minutes while alternating between cruise and really pushing it through the gears/higher rpms. Aside from one odd hiccup at 4000 rpms, the car drove great! It was the best it's driven since I put the new motor in. Head temps were stable and right where they should be. I was having such a great drive I forgot to double check my AFR. I am sure they are still the same as before, nothing has changed there to cause them to go wonky.

Sooo. I will keep an eye on it, but it looks like between what ever Ed did and my reinstal process, I think my issue is fixed.

[emerygt350]

Well... I did NOT expect this.

So, I reinstalled the 123 Distributor that Ed sent back to me and followed all the directions as listed online. I set the entire timing curve to 10 degrees before TDC from 500-5000 rpms. Double checked the timing with a timing light.l; Everything checked out. Locked in at a solid 10 degrees at anything above 500 rpms.

I loaded up a new curve with basic benchmark settings at basic rpms, 10@1000, 20@2000, 25@3000, and just held 28 all the way out the back door. I double checked that the vacuum map was zeroed out and that the initial base timing was set at 0. Set my redline to 6000rpm. Started the car and double checked the timing at each of the timing marks. Everything looked good. None of this was different from any other time, so I held little hope of anything different on my test drive.

Took her for a spin and had a little hitch/lunching or two at first when I went under power. Assuming the problem still existed, I decided to press on and verify. I drove the car for about 15 minutes while alternating between cruise and really pushing it through the gears/higher rpms. Aside from one odd hiccup at 4000 rpms, the car drove great! It was the best it's driven since I put the new motor in. Head temps were stable and right where they should be. I was having such a great drive I forgot to double check my AFR. I am sure they are still the same as before, nothing has changed there to cause them to go wonky.

Sooo. I will keep an eye on it, but it looks like between what ever Ed did and my reinstal process, I think my issue is fixed.

That is great news. Sadly, I have done all the things (resistor in line to the dizzy, TVS everywhere, removed the alternator belt, another set of plug wires) and still the dizzy loses it after a little bit. I have magnecors on the way. My EMI is still incredibly high so I hope that is it.