123 Ignition Question Options

[friethmiller]

Just finished break-in on my rebuilt engine. I'm running dual Weber 44 IDFs without vacuum advance on my distributor. What's the best (or only) option for the 123Ignition models? Is the only model the Porsche-4-R? Can I pull vacuum from another source? I'd like the option to buy the bluetooth. TIA.

[wwheelock]

Just finish break-in on my rebuilt engine. I'm running dual Weber 44 IDFs without vacuum advance on my distributor. What's the best (or only) option for the 123Ignition models? Is the only model the Porsche-4-R? Can I pull vacuum from another source? I'd like the option to buy the bluetooth. TIA.

I'm using the 123/TUNE+4-R-V (blue tooth version) on my 73 with a 2.2L type 4 running dual weber 44 IDF's. I also have used it on a 1.7 with dual 40IDF's. I did not use the vacuum advance on either engine. My research indicated that there is insufficient vacuum from the webers for it to work. I purchased my 123 from 123ignitionusa LLC 123ignitionusa.com 440-668-8164.

[emerygt350]

It really shouldn't matter. You can set it up without it then figure out where you want to have the 'vacuum' advance to come in and just run it off whatever you have. Or don't use that optional at all.

[friethmiller]

Ok, that makes sense then. The input of vacuum is optional. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) So, if all goes well I'm going to install the engine, get everything settled operationally, and then switch to a 123 ignition. Thanks guys for your input. Much appreciated! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[emerygt350]

Yep. Even if you have low vacuum you can set the dizzy for the lvl that will trigger it and then how much advance you want. Here is what my curve and vacuum advance curve looks like (MAP curve). Since I have it hooked to ported vacuum it is a little silly but I may switch to plenum vacuum at some point to see if it's worth tweaking. There is also a cutoff rpm for the vacuum advance where under that it doesn't activate (default is 1500).

[friethmiller]

Yep. Even if you have low vacuum you can set the dizzy for the lvl that will trigger it and then how much advance you want. Here is what my curve and vacuum advance curve looks like (MAP curve). Since I have it hooked to ported vacuum it is a little silly but I may switch to plenum vacuum at some point to see if it's worth tweaking. There is also a cutoff rpm for the vacuum advance where under that it doesn't activate (default is 1500).

Nice! Ok. I know what I want from Santa this year. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[flxzcat]

What are the basic specs of your engine?

[friethmiller]

What are the basic specs of your engine?

If you're asking about my engine, it's a 2258. I've got dual 44 IDFs with a 163/86b cam. 9.2:1 CR (static). Heads are port & polished, running dual springs, 44/38mm intake/exhaust. Exhaust is Tangerine Racing 1-5/8" headers and muffler. Oh, and I'm current running a Pertronix (magnetic) upgraded ignition.

[emerygt350]

If you were wondering about mine, I am running a 73 GA 2.0 upgraded to a 2056. Stock cam, 8.8ish:1 compression. Heads are all stock but new valves and springs. I switch back and forth between stock exhaust and air box and a cold air intake and an ansa style exhaust. Djet tuned to the motor and of course the 123 and a pertronix 1.5 ohm ingnitor coil.

[Dave97]

I’m using the Bluetooth model on my 2270, dual 44. I have smaller vents and use vac advance. One of the neat things with Bluetooth is that you can drive and watch and see what it’s doing. You can stop, make changes and try something different. There is not much vacuum, but it does kick in on light throttle. Flat highway, back roads light throttle

[flxzcat]

Sorry guys. I was asking emery.

[VaccaRabite]

If you are using vacuum advance, it is really best to use input from both banks of carbs, run to a T and then into the vacuum advance port on the 123. That is how I'm running it on my bus. You get a much stronger response that way.

Zach

[malcolm2]

I was about to purchase a 123 Distributor today. Poking around their website, their specs say, "vacuum advance or vacuum retard". My current disty has ADV and RTD. The "or" here throws me off. and looking at the picture, I only see 1 port on the 123 Disty.

1. Is it as simple as adding the ADV vac hose to the 123 Disty and it will do the rest?

2. I see some posts talking about just cover the manifold port and DON'T USE vacuum.

What has the group done with the ADV and RTD vacuums on these?

I plan on getting the TUNE+ Porsche 4-R-V for my 1911 with L-Jet.

LMK,

Clark

[emerygt350]

You don't need retard so just use the advance. You can always set the timing really retarded at idle if you like, but there really isn't any point to it.

[VaccaRabite]

@malcolm2
Jump on the 123Ignition train. They are fantastic.

Zach

[malcolm2]

it arrived today...

I am adjusting my valves right now. I think i will re-install the exhaust, install my new plugs and give it all a check out... maybe a short test drive around the hood.

Then change the disty. Don't want to put too many new variables together. So, prove out the valve adjustment 1st.....

[TRP]

Smart to keep the variables to a minimum. Let us know how it goes.

[VaccaRabite]

You are going to love the install process of the 123.
They make it really simple - IMO way easier then setting up a traditional dizzy.

Zach

[friethmiller]

...Don't want to put too many new variables together...

Exactly! Need to get a good tune/baseline first. I'm getting my 123 for Christmas - even if I have to buy it for myself. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif)

[emerygt350]

Been playing with my curve more. I really like this Bluetooth thing. So much better than twisting the distributor. Might ramp it up just a hair faster off 1k but the behavior everywhere feels real good.



Took it for a long drive today in this nice cool weather.

Here it is cruising at 70 on the interstate. This is after 30 minutes at 70.